How do you guys sharpen chains?

[tdb]

109

After looking at some granbergs on ebay, I noticed there are a few different models. Is there any difference in the models?

This is the one I am looking at.
New Granberg G-109 File-N-Guide Chain Saw Filing Jig - eBay (item 230593563862 end time Apr-03-11 21:09:52 PDT)

I went to Granbergs website and they only have one model listed which is the g106b. The one above is a g-109.

The way it sounds, hand filing is the way to go. I am going to try to learn how to do some hand filing. If I were to look at electric grinders, which would be a good brand? I have been looking at some on ebay and wow, some are going for 3 or 400 dollars. I really wouldn't want to spend that much. I also seen some that costs $55, it is the one that Northern Tool carries. I assume those would be junk.

Thanks for all the help.

the 109 is the older model, the 106 is the current one .

 

[wigglesworth]

Here ya go guys. I have some cutter pics as well, but me and the laptop are arguing about it.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MCF4e8FZYAo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[zogger]

Thanks!

Now I see how they attach and work! What does that piece that sticks out the other side do? Just part of keeping it hooked in and aligned, or what? And the guide itself, can you do different pitch and different sized cutters?

 

[fields_mj]

Ditto!!! I'm certainly going to have to pick one of those up for both my .325 and .404 chain! At $10 each, it would be worth it just to give it a try.

 

[Sagetown]

After looking at some granbergs on ebay, I noticed there are a few different models. Is there any difference in the models?

This is the one I am looking at.
New Granberg G-109 File-N-Guide Chain Saw Filing Jig - eBay (item 230593563862 end time Apr-03-11 21:09:52 PDT)

I went to Granbergs website and they only have one model listed which is the g106b. The one above is a g-109.

The way it sounds, hand filing is the way to go. I am going to try to learn how to do some hand filing. If I were to look at electric grinders, which would be a good brand? I have been looking at some on ebay and wow, some are going for 3 or 400 dollars. I really wouldn't want to spend that much. I also seen some that costs $55, it is the one that Northern Tool carries. I assume those would be junk.

Thanks for all the help.

I recently got the Northern Tool Model #193020. I'm very pleased with it.
Not knowing anything about these disc grinders, it was a bugger to put together. Instructions expect you to know a little. These go on sale from time to time.

 

[grandpatractor]

Now I see how they attach and work! What does that piece that sticks out the other side do? Just part of keeping it hooked in and aligned, or what? And the guide itself, can you do different pitch and different sized cutters?

The other plate is used by setting it over the rakers to check them.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

You can see 2 arrows inside make sure the are pointing towards the nose of the bar.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

Ditto!!! I'm certainly going to have to pick one of those up for both my .325 and .404 chain! At $10 each, it would be worth it just to give it a try.

They make them for .325 but not .404 that I have found anyway.

 

[wigglesworth]

I finally got my pics loaded. These are of a cutter filed with the roller guide. I usually make one freehand stroke on the bottom of the gullet, just to clean it up. As you can see, it does a fantastic job.

 

[zogger]

Cool

The other plate is used by setting it over the rakers to check them.

All right then, they do both. Guess I'll get one. Been hemming and hawing about it. I file pretty fair, but I know I can do better, still get some jitter and bounce in my cuts, and I know that is from uneven cutters and rakers.

I also wonder why they don't have different grade files on the shelf in the shops. What I do now to make up for it is use the older clapped out files for the last touch.

 

[Sagetown]

i finally got my pics loaded. These are of a cutter filed with the roller guide. I usually make one freehand stroke on the bottom of the gullet, just to clean it up. As you can see, it does a fantastic job.

very nice filing

 

[fields_mj]

They make them for .325 but not .404 that I have found anyway.

Bailey's - Husqvarna Swedish Roller Guide for .404 Pitch Chainsaw Chain

 

[indiansprings]

Wiggs, excellent advice as usual. My oldest son bought one earlier in the year, it's the only way he can hand file consistently. They do a great job.
Nice of you to post the vid and pictures. Rep sent if I don't have to spread it around.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

Bailey's - Husqvarna Swedish Roller Guide for .404 Pitch Chainsaw Chain

Cool. Thanks

 

[David (saltas)]

lite touch of the file in the field,
I take four chains for the main bar, 2 chains for the spare, shorter bar.

use grinder on chains when I get home, but only a light touch ie the smallest amount to put a new face on the cutter, only a finger or two of pressure on the grinders handle

It is probably uncool to quote yourself

I did 8 years in a mechanical workshop after school fixing cars, plus 2 years of metal work at high school and all my school holidays on my grandparents farm.

when I was a first year apprentice I spent 3 months in the engineering departments kindergarten making every thing (jeweller clamps, g clamp, tool box, tap handle,drill angle gauge, etc, etc) with a file, hacksaw and a surface block and bearing blue.

I CAN FILE, I CAN file ACCURATELY, but I can use a machine accurately too.

now I am more than 6 feet tall, 300lbs or 185cm, 135 kg for you Canadians and I can remove a #### load of material with a file, but that is not the point.

I hand file gently with a stihl guide on a round file in the field when I feel like it.
e.g. I need a rest or the saw needs other attention.

I work in the tropics (think Jamaica ) I.E. more than 90 deg F and more than 90% rel humidity. If the I need a break or the saw needs more, I swap the chain, turn the bar, bar oil, fuel, drink for me, mix some more fuel for later, attend to my co-workers saw (they always need work).

When I get home I strip and clean my saws, true my bars, and sharpen my chains with my Chinese grinder. I grind ever so lightly, I'm ever so quick at grinding. I do my rackers with the grinder too (set at zero deg), after testing them with a go no go jig.

If I was going to go into a chain saw race I would hand sharpen with a file with no guide attached to it. It would take me quite a bit of time and a lot of measuring with a vernier and testing the edge with my thumb/finger, and close inspection (think large bench mounted magnifying glass with integral fluorescent light)

Summary filling is a great skill, I was lucky enough for a mining company to pay me 12 weeks wages full time to learn how to file.

If you cant file a grinder is a useful tool, but you can abuse a chain with a grinder.

If you can file you are more likely to respect the chain and take itsy, bitsy, tiny cuts, so you wont alter the temper of the chain. i.e. no blueing of edge of the grinders cut, no bur on edge of grinders cut etc, etc.

many of you have pointed our a grinder is the quickest / preferred method of repair for a rocked chain.

Yes I own a cheap Chinese grinder, I can machine anything, a poor trades person blames his tools.

 

[David (saltas)]

Here ya go guys. I have some cutter pics as well, but me and the laptop are arguing about it.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MCF4e8FZYAo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

wigglesworth I am not being critical of you nice video of husky jig

these pictures are from this video

notice different angle being file on first tooth compared to second tooth

the first tooth is filed at a more acute angle

the second second tooth is filed at an angle that is more obtuse

I admit to not using a handle on a file occasionally , but you will learn better technique using a handle. You will have better precision by using two hands one on each end of the file i.e. your stroke will be more linear and not a curved stroke that puts a radius on both ends of the face of the cutter.

 

[David (saltas)]

Like I said in my last post about your video, not criticising you, just using the difference in angle between first and second tooth to educate those that are observant, that correct posture and correct technique gives accuracy when filing

I finally got my pics loaded. These are of a cutter filed with the roller guide. I usually make one freehand stroke on the bottom of the gullet, just to clean it up. As you can see, it does a fantastic job.

your pictures do your technique more justice than the video

If everyone could sharpen like that then "nobody would be asking how to sharpen a chain"

 

[olyman]

Every chain I have tried to sharpen by hand cuts a beautiful curve afterwords. The ones I sharpen with my 511A cuts fast and straight. I carry several spare chains with me and just swap them out when they get dull. I only have to kiss the teeth with the grinder to get them sharp again. Anyone who both sells and sharpens chains will take alot more off than I have to.:msp_mad:

very accurately spoken!!!--some of us,,have been discussing this elsewhere..i had the same experience,,when i took my first chain to get sharpened.. 30 mi one way!!,,and the azz blued the teeth,,and took half of it off!!!!! $^&#%^*$% i got some files,,and the carlton file o plate,,and that was the first,,and last,,time he ever touched my saws!!!! but with the modified NT grinder--it sharpens as well as a carlton,efco,stihl,olympyk,,whatever grinder--and like you said--just a slight grazing of the teeth to get the chain sharp--i carry spares also--takes about that long to change it...i have a 24 in bar on the 264,,and a 36 on the 970,,,i AINT sharpening them by hand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and they are full compliment,,not skip!!!!!!

 

[olyman]

I've often wondered if it's worth sharpening a chain. Would you be better off just getting a new chain everytime youj need one. If you buy a spool of chain and make your own you have around $11 in a 16" chain. If I don't hit anything I can easily cut 3-4 cords with a chain before it gets to dull. I have thought about just cutting until a chain is dull then swappiong a new one. Once you have 5 dull ones sell them on e-bay. I bet they would average $7-8 a piece. If that is the case it only costs you about $1 a cord to have a new chain everytime you cut. Now if you rock one it will cost you a couple dollars more. Has anyone else thought about doing this?

Scott

apparently--the wood you cut,,has no embedded sand or dirt--and all your logs---are elevated off the ground when you cut them----and as he said,,all new chains would be a waste....course,,that depends if you are inherently rich--

 

[olyman]

Them grinders will burn your chain. You can't beat a rat tail file to sharpen the teeth and a flat file to take down the rakers.

nnooottttttttttt...only a bad operator does that..i dont blue or burn my chains--must be doing something wrong--