how hard a chainsaw must be pushed ?

[Justsaws]

Cut with the throttle trigger held at wide open throttle.

There are times for safety and control that the chain speed may need to be reduced by feathering or small moments of half throttle but the saw is designed to cut at full throttle.

If the saw has less power or vibrates a lot more at wide open throttle then it does at partial throttle it needs work and should be checked out.

 

[SawTroll]

no, I am wearing no ear protection.
the chain is ok, chips big and all.
pffff. what I am saying is that I don`t accelerate all the way. and it cuts ok. is it wrong ? if the saw has 13.000 rot/min and I use say like 8.000
something like that....

Very bad for the saw, and probably for the cutting speed as well!

Cut with the throttle trigger held at wide open throttle.

There are times for safety and control that the chain speed may need to be reduced by feathering or small moments of half throttle but the saw is designed to cut at full throttle.

If the saw has less power or vibrates a lot more at wide open throttle then it does at partial throttle it needs work and should be checked out.

Yes!

 

[SawTroll]

A steady diet of low throttle will eventually carbon up your saw unless you mix at 100:1.
You could also try modifying you muffler, it makes a much more comfortable sound.
Does your saw have a henway?
John

They also tend to run lean at "halv-throttle", as there are no "mid-range" jet in most saw carbs.

 

[SawTroll]

first, I can`t believe I said bat.
second the sound of my saw at full throttle is... just wrong.
however being my first and only saw, I can`t say the difference.
:bang:
to me is ok to use it just like I did.
the chain is normal, all teeths, 40 cm bar, .325 etc
just wanted to know if it is healthy for the saw.
thanks.

Sorry to say so, but that saw is a cheaply made Chinese one - so it doesn't really surprice me if it has a lot of vibes and generally behaves badly at high rpm. Putting the saw into the wood will reduce the rpm though, unless it is just twigs.

 

[ZeroJunk]

associated with the imminent death of my already crappy saw

I love it.

 

[The Count]

no man, don`t feel sorry; I know it`s cheap. I`m not worry for this one; eventually I`ll get a good saw; since not cutting daily 2 years may pass and warranty vanishes. then the saw goes bad due to my lack of knowledge....
you get the picture.....

the point of this is for me to grow good chainsaw wise and take good care of my saw.

this saw I have right now is like single use camera; when it breaks, I won`t take it to the shop for repair for I know that even if they fix it, it won`t last long.
it is just a trainee saw.

one more Q.
also since I don`t like the sound of 15.000 rpm, what saw runs slower ? MS 260 or 346 XP ?

Stihl or Husky in general ?
what is the difference rpm wise ?

thanks

 

[Gologit]

I don`t know how confusing what I`m saying is, due to my faulty english.

Don't worry about your English, we'll work through that. Your English is probably better than our Transylvanian.

But...when a whole bunch of different people, some of whom don't even like each other and probably couldn't even come to an agreement on how many hands a clock has, give you the same advice you'd do well to listen.

There is an absolute wealth of information and help available on this site. Take some of it.

 

[Sheriff420]

one more Q.
also since I don`t like the sound of 15.000 rpm, what saw runs slower ? MS 260 or 346 XP ?

thanks

From the site showing your saw

Product Description

Gasoline chain saw, petrol chain saw, gas chain saw
Engine model: 1E45F
Displacement: 52CC
Engine power: 2.2kw/7000rpm
Idle speed: 2800rpm
Fuel/Oil mixture ratio: 25: 1
Fuel tank capacity: 550ml
Oil tank capacity: 260ml
Guide bar size: 20"
Chain pitch: 0.325"

Am I reading it right that the high rpm is only 7000? Wouldn't that only be about 3/4 throttle compared to most saws already?

 

[Cantdog]

Just read the entire thread and am surprised someone has not inquired as to your high side carb setting. If it sounds like it's turning to fast you may be to lean on this setting and in fact the saw may well be turning at to high an wot rpm. Do a search (using the provided seach function) on "carb tuning" this may be helpful to you. If your saw is tuned correctly and the chain is sharp and the rakers set correctly the saw should self feed and drop in rpm to acceptable levels at wot if the wood is of sufficiant size. The general consensus here is that saws are designed to cut correctly at wot. Most owners manuals say the same thing. As has been described saws make the most power at high rpm and require these rpm to supply cooling, lubrication etc while under full load. However I disagree with some statements put forth here concerning saws having only "H" and "L" setting and no midrange adjustment so saws should not be run in the midrange. This is not fact or the saw would never get to accelerate to high rpm. Mid range is covered by both "L" and "H" working together as the "L" works constantly and even at high rpm is still contributing fuel to the motor. This is why you need to have the low side set a bit rich for good accelerating performance.

As far as cutting at less than wot...it's not a good idea when felling or bucking anything other than small limbs or saplings. I don't think anyone here who uses a saw a lot makes every single cut at full throttle..I certainly don't. I cut a lot of real small firewood for my cookstove from the limbs of large hardwoods and hardly ever use full throttle for this easy work. The rule of thumb I use, is keep the saw happy spinning freely, making good power, never lugging the motor but not over reving when unnecessary. For what it's worth I've never seized or scored a saw yet. I have worn pistons, rings and ring lands completely out but never destroyed or carboned a saw up like some I've worked on. Hope you the best in your learning curve. Search, search, search there is nearly endless information on this site to learn from.

 

[Bob Wright]

also since I don`t like the sound of 15,000 rpm, what saw runs slower ? MS 260 or 346 XP ?

Stihl or Husky in general ?
what is the difference rpm wise ?

thanks

And to think some of us pay money to make their saw run faster LOL....Bob

 

[THALL10326]

The throttle should be regarded as an on/off switch - and if you have to put much pressure on the saw, the chain probably is dull, the rakers too high - or something else is wrong!

On the money. Todays saws don't need to be pushed at all with a sharp chain. The weight of the saw should take it on down through the wood IF the chain is cutting like it suppose to.

 

[wyk]

Funny, I thought Toyota's were now being made to only idle or run WOT, too.

Call me crazy, but I think you've been misinformed on Chainsaws.

Sounds like you're describing the powerband of a Toyota, not a chainsaw.

Chainsaw is made to run at WOT. All the time unless you are idling. That means run it at two speeds. Idle and WOT.

 

[Bob Wright]

On the money. Todays saws don't need to be pushed at all with a sharp chain. The weight of the saw should take it on down through the wood IF the chain is cutting like it suppose to.

That applies to older saws too...Bob

 

[THALL10326]

That applies to older saws too...Bob

I'm with ya Bob. I had a customer just yesterday bring up the how hard should I push my saw in the wood. I said not at all if its sharp. He goes my saw must be dull then. He goes out to the car and brings in it. Talk about dull, that thing had more banged up teeth. I said does it smoke it the wood, he goes yeah, I said really,LOLOL Sold him a new chain and explained the chain needs to be sharp in order to cut....

 

[Stihl088stock]

From the site showing your saw

Am I reading it right that the high rpm is only 7000? Wouldn't that only be about 3/4 throttle compared to most saws already?

No, that's the peak of the powerband from a dynamometer!

 

[bcsizemo]

Well I'm a little interested in this thread because I have a tendency to limb things running only part throttle, or hell even small trees for that matter.

Also on the, "carbs don't have a mid throttle screw"...I wasn't aware any carb had a mid throttle jet. I'm pretty sure my 77 WV beetle only has a low and high jet... And note: it has more modes of operation than idle and WOT.

But it's also a 4 cycle engine with oil lubrication. This reminds me of the "new" lawnmowers. Most of them don't come with a throttle...probably some EPA BS I don't know. Don't really give a care either cause I just put one on. What's the point of burning a whole tank of gas when I only need to burn 1/3?

-Some have said running mid throttle causes a lean condition.
I am assuming from what I've read most saws are tuned out of the wood, finding max rpm (a lean condition, and then increasing the H side jet to get the correct loaded rpm power band.)

Now if that's the case say a saw turns 12k no load WOT and 8k in wood at WOT, since the saw is spinning 30% less RPM's could that cause a "leaner" condition?

Or are we saying that something under say 5k RPM would be a possible lean condition?

-OR

If by simply not moving enough fuel/oil mix through the engine you are getting a low lubrication issue and possibly are going to burn the bearings?


Not trying to be an ass or anything (don't care if I get flamed...hell I own an Echo...so it's already warm in here.) Just wondering what the dynamics are on things like 2 cycle engines.

 

[The Count]

ok, I have an L and an H screw...and I have "tunned" a bit with my screwdriver.
now I don`t know what the H and L does and how they must be.
also there is another screw somewhat above....not oil flow though.....

can anyone tell me exactly what L does and H does and how they interact?
some of you already mentioned to H and L but I need to know everything about them pesky buttons.

danke

 

[willsaw4beer]

Reading this thread really makes you question buying used equipment..

 

[CGC4200]

air cooled engines need RPM for cooling

I run my saws WFO in a cut unless I need to feather them, same for
4-stroke lawn mower unless in real close quarters. VW beetles were OK
with part throttle operation, but they were designed for the use like a
Belarus air cooled tractor.

 

[Sheriff420]

ok, I have an L and an H screw...and I have "tunned" a bit with my screwdriver.
now I don`t know what the H and L does and how they must be.
also there is another screw somewhat above....not oil flow though.....

can anyone tell me exactly what L does and H does and how they interact?
some of you already mentioned to H and L but I need to know everything about them pesky buttons.

danke

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46721
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=92384
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=26411