How To Clean Your Chainsaws Without Making a Mess

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I’ve seen several crankcase assemblys ruined by moisture from a pressure washer. [emoji90]

I’ll not use ‘brake clean’ again after getting some in my mouth and on my face. [emoji1785]

I use either Gunk foaming engine degreaser or O’Reilleys generic copy. [emoji108] The O’Reilleys actually works better. [emoji106]

Blast it off with the garden hose run off the hot faucet in the laundry room. Crap rolls down the driveway.
 
Sounds like a good way to get the bar rails and sprocket tip bearing nice and bone DRY ... and rust the B+C in about 15 seconds flat. Other than that...

That assumed problem is not a issue if the bar and chain are removed from the power-head before cleaning. The entire process is greatly simplified.
Most modern bars have a double sealed brg in the tip that usually outlasts the rails. An old hacksaw bld works quite well for cleaning out the rails.
Just don't have it installed in a reciprocating saw. If you do, don't have the saw plugged in.
Most modern saws will deliver oil to the chain and bar rails within 5-7 secs.
It's but one suggestion of a 4 page thread. It doesn't matter. If you concern is that great, don't use it.
Have a nice day.
 
Only if you like living dangerously, the sawdust and bar oil mix would be no problem, mixed fuel may become a prob.
Yes , Jerry as you have indicated flammable fumes or vapours could results in serious consequences . Unless John's vacuum was Nema or Nec rated which is highly doubtful . I successfully use hand operated pumps rated for combustible / flammable fluids for such routine extraction applications . Quite reasonably priced for these tedious jobs !
 
That assumed problem is not a issue if the bar and chain are removed from the power-head before cleaning. The entire process is greatly simplified.
Most modern bars have a double sealed brg in the tip that usually outlasts the rails. An old hacksaw bld works quite well for cleaning out the rails.
Just don't have it installed in a reciprocating saw. If you do, don't have the saw plugged in.
Most modern saws will deliver oil to the chain and bar rails within 5-7 secs.
It's but one suggestion of a 4 page thread. It doesn't matter. If you concern is that great, don't use it.
Have a nice day.
I agree , the Pros out weigh the Cons . Even my old Pioneers roller tip Oregon bar & chain are done in this manner then let air dry . I then grease the tip with my Pioneer. mini grease gun and fire up the saw to lubricated the bar rail , the chain has enough residual syn bar oil to not pose a concern . However removing the chain or b&c prior to cleaning is also a valid option , that I entail seasonally when req'd for a even more thorough cleaning !
 
I think I’m onto something here children The shop vac not only sucks, it blows as well.
I bought the optional micro cleaning kit ( shop-vac part #80189).
I’m gonna take this one to the limit and thinking of buying the much smaller battery powered vacuum cleaner.
Any recommendations?
 
I hooked up a blow gun (compressed air) with a short run of hose as a whip plumbed to fit the garden hose fitting it worked great on a/c and car radiators. So I grab it once in a while to pre clean a messy saw .. I picked up a Bissel carpet/upholstery cleaner and intend to plumb it with my blow gun to hot water with the (venturi) siphon hose in a solution of something as a degreaser You can get pretty detailed with the gun but the hot water (No compressed air) with a cleaning/degreasing agent should be the cats Meow. My blow gun is a pistol style cheapie with a threaded tip so I can change nozzles as needed.
A plastic barrel made into a wash cabinet would make a good crap catcher All Ya need is a Snort of Imagination Juice to get some Ideas going ..
 
Chances are it should not be able to happen.
There's not enough end-play to allow it.
Unless you have BIG crank/brg problems?
The saw looks fairly new.
Might be worth a call to a dealer who might listen.

But a little shot of cleaner in there and you'd be able to eat off it LOL
 
View attachment 782774 Here’s a picture of the 261 after micro cleaning it without solvent.
. . . What are the chances that the oiler arm jumped the clutch drum?
I would still want to blast that with compressed air.

I have seen several MS261 oiler arms 'ground' down too short to reach the notch in the clutch drum, apparently from being bent while reassembled(?) Not saying that you don't know what you are doing, but we see it periodically with volunteers. Hold the 'old' one up against a new one to compare.

Philbert
 
View attachment 782774 Here’s a picture of the 261 after micro cleaning it without solvent.
After only 100 tanks or so the oiler quit working that’s why I have it dismantled.
What are the chances that the oiler arm jumped the clutch drum?

Turn the drive arm out to check the drive cogs.
 

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