Pressure washer & compressed air wins every time. Living quarters is no place for these 2.
That plus a good used toothbrush that most people throw away Wipe down with a paper towel or an old napkin. I never have to use a whole can of that brake fluid. Lots of solvents work -- even mixed fuel.One can of Brake Kleen. Done.
That plus a good used toothbrush that most people throw away Wipe down with a paper towel or an old napkin. I never have to use a whole can of that brake fluid. Lots of solvents work -- even mixed fuel.
One can of Brake Kleen. Done.
So, what you’re saying is that I shouldn’t have vacuumed out that 50:1 to replace it with 40:1?
Yep , otherwise recognized as the Big Boom Effect ! lol.Ahhh. gasoline and electric motors may not be compatible John. The liquid soon becomes a vapor when moving through the vac system, a spark from the brushes/armature will ignite it.
Yep , my go to cleaner when used carefully . Previously Kerosene because of its combined lubricity & solvency . Hard to find locally today unfortunately and Brake Clean spray is as effective and much more convenient !One can of Brake Kleen. Done.
Sounds like a good way to get the bar rails and sprocket tip bearing nice and bone DRY ... and rust the B+C in about 15 seconds flat. Other than that...
Yes , Jerry as you have indicated flammable fumes or vapours could results in serious consequences . Unless John's vacuum was Nema or Nec rated which is highly doubtful . I successfully use hand operated pumps rated for combustible / flammable fluids for such routine extraction applications . Quite reasonably priced for these tedious jobs !Only if you like living dangerously, the sawdust and bar oil mix would be no problem, mixed fuel may become a prob.
I agree , the Pros out weigh the Cons . Even my old Pioneers roller tip Oregon bar & chain are done in this manner then let air dry . I then grease the tip with my Pioneer. mini grease gun and fire up the saw to lubricated the bar rail , the chain has enough residual syn bar oil to not pose a concern . However removing the chain or b&c prior to cleaning is also a valid option , that I entail seasonally when req'd for a even more thorough cleaning !That assumed problem is not a issue if the bar and chain are removed from the power-head before cleaning. The entire process is greatly simplified.
Most modern bars have a double sealed brg in the tip that usually outlasts the rails. An old hacksaw bld works quite well for cleaning out the rails.
Just don't have it installed in a reciprocating saw. If you do, don't have the saw plugged in.
Most modern saws will deliver oil to the chain and bar rails within 5-7 secs.
It's but one suggestion of a 4 page thread. It doesn't matter. If you concern is that great, don't use it.
Have a nice day.
I would still want to blast that with compressed air.View attachment 782774 Here’s a picture of the 261 after micro cleaning it without solvent.
. . . What are the chances that the oiler arm jumped the clutch drum?
View attachment 782774 Here’s a picture of the 261 after micro cleaning it without solvent.
After only 100 tanks or so the oiler quit working that’s why I have it dismantled.
What are the chances that the oiler arm jumped the clutch drum?
Good call Jerry! I know I’m not the brightest bulb on the tree , but when I saw the snap ring it scared me off cause I didn’t have the proper tool.Turn the drive arm out to check the drive cogs.
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