Husqvarna 359 repair

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Well, zip tied my throttle lever to handle and compression tested with my new $22 tester.
New plug was oily as were the threads. 50 lbs after 10 pulls, released pressure, same results.

Pulled muffler. Attached pics show rings are shot. New rings, and maybe cylinder.
Will start pricing repairs but probably needs to go to someone who can do the refurb in their sleep.
Saw may be up for sale soon. 20" bar, new 3/8 pitch chain still in package.

Thanks again,

Was that decompression valve still pushed in while you were testing (as it shows in earlier photographs)?
That oily stain on the cylinder shows something has been exiting there as per @cuinrearview suggested above- maybe the valve is loose in the cylinder (small end of a scrench fits them to tighten/loosen) or the valve is stuck in the decompression mode thanks to carbon.
Also, try your $22 compression tester on your 353 and see if it also reads around 50psi even though you know the saw runs- could be the fault of the tester not the machine being tested giving the way low reading.

 

[rkamp]

Was that decompression valve still pushed in while you were testing (as it shows in earlier photographs)?
That oily stain on the cylinder shows something has been exiting there as per @cuinrearview suggested above- maybe the valve is loose in the cylinder (small end of a scrench fits them to tighten/loosen) or the valve is stuck in the decompression mode thanks to carbon.
Also, try your $22 compression tester on your 353 and see if it also reads around 50psi even though you know the saw runs- could be the fault of the tester not the machine being tested giving the way low reading.

Yeah, the decomp button was pushed in on first 359 test. Put the tester on my "tuned" and hard to pull 353 with button out and read 75 pounds.
Tested the 359 again with button out and also got up to 75 pounds. Going to read the manual, maybe I need to multiply the reading by 2.5.

 

[rkamp]

Cheap ass lol. Thats called being prudent. And I'm here to tell you there's nothing wrong with the walbro carb. Still have it on mine and it works just fine. If it ever takes a dump I'm gonna look long and hard to find another one. There are a few mods that can be done to them for improvement. One of the members (tree monkey may be?) Did a video in them a while back. So long ad the accelerator pump isnt shot its a darn fine carb in my book.

Searched the "tree monkey" walbro thread. No video but pages upon pages of back and forth. Entertaining and better than counting sheep.

 

[J D]

It would seem unlikely that compression is your issue then.
I would pull the carb down, you might find it just needs a clean or a kit in it.
Tree monkeys fix is basically just venting the outside of the metering diaphragm to atmosphere (like carbs generally do) rather than to the inside of the air filter through a restrictive passage. It addresses issues with erratic idling & is something you could consider along with the intake clamp once you get the underlying issue sorted.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Yeah, the decomp button was pushed in on first 359 test. Put the tester on my "tuned" and hard to pull 353 with button out and read 75 pounds.
Tested the 359 again with button out and also got up to 75 pounds. Going to read the manual, maybe I need to multiply the reading by 2.5.

Or more likely, you have a tester designed for large capacity automotive engines and is not suited to small capacity motors found on chainsaws- very common mistake. If those readings were true, neither saw would run- you need at least 90psi for a saw to fire let alone run. What you discovered by testing the 353 is compression is not your problem with the 359 and saved yourself tearing it down and spending money on unneeded repairs.

I am not 100% on the next bit, but I believe is is not unheard of to swap the Husqvarna 350 carbs with the carb from a 359 to get more oomph- so, in theory it should be possible to go the other way with your 353 maybe? If you know the 353 runs well, swap the carbs over and see if it helps the 359- may not be ideal running- but it should run and therefore tell you that the problem lays within the 359 carb and save you chasing your tail.

 

[rkamp]

It would seem unlikely that compression is your issue then.
I would pull the carb down, you might find it just needs a clean or a kit in it.
Tree monkeys fix is basically just venting the outside of the metering diaphragm to atmosphere (like carbs generally do) rather than to the inside of the air filter through a restrictive passage. It addresses issues with erratic idling & is something you could consider along with the intake clamp once you get the underlying issue sorted.

Thanks. Hoping I can get away with replacing the rings, clamp and partition. I can see gas-oil seeping down the sides of the piston and the muffler
exhaust port can be wiped clean of oil with very little if any carbon build up.

I had sent my 353 to Carl Miller, but according to his facebook page he is no longer taking on anymore work. Contacting members on forum who I may
be able to send saw to.

Thanks

 

[J D]

Thanks. Hoping I can get away with replacing the rings, clamp and partition. I can see gas-oil seeping down the sides of the piston and the muffler
exhaust port can be wiped clean of oil with very little if any carbon build up.

I had sent my 353 to Carl Miller, but according to his facebook page he is no longer taking on anymore work. Contacting members on forum who I may
be able to send saw to.

Thanks

Why would you replace the rings?

 

[rkamp]

Or more likely, you have a tester designed for large capacity automotive engines and is not suited to small capacity motors found on chainsaws- very common mistake. If those readings were true, neither saw would run- you need at least 90psi for a saw to fire let alone run. What you discovered by testing the 353 is compression is not your problem with the 359 and saved yourself tearing it down and spending money on unneeded repairs.

I am not 100% on the next bit, but I believe is is not unheard of to swap the Husqvarna 350 carbs with the carb from a 359 to get more oomph- so, in theory it should be possible to go the other way with your 353 maybe? If you know the 353 runs well, swap the carbs over and see if it helps the 359- may not be ideal running- but it should run and therefore tell you that the problem lays within the 359 carb and save you chasing your tail.

Test kit was specifically for small engines, but at $22 was too good to be true. Got the saw running with filter and line change. I have the muffler off
and now want to make sure as I can the piston and rings look ok.

 

[rkamp]

Why would you replace the rings?

Thinking maybe it is time to do a refresh. I have no idea how many hours on the saw when bought used.
I need a saw colonoscopy doctor to be sure to ensure another 10 years. I did get a look at the cylinder walls
when piston was at bottom stroke and it was very clean and shiny with no marks.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thinking maybe it is time to do a refresh. I have no idea how many hours on the saw when bought used.
I need a saw colonoscopy doctor to be sure to ensure another 10 years. I did get a look at the cylinder walls
when piston was at bottom stroke and it was very clean and shiny with no marks.

It is your saw- you are free to do with it as you wish, new rings certainly won't be a silly idea- well as silly as needlessly replacing an entire top end anyhow.
Sending it to someone that knows this family well may also not be a stupid idea- agree with doing away with the plastic clamp and you can use the same manifold- just trim the plastic clip off and use a steel band clamp from a 372 or Stihl 066 (that is how I fixed the plastic clip on my own 2159).
@sean donato knows a thing or two about these and might be willing to help you out?

 

[huskihl]

Thinking maybe it is time to do a refresh. I have no idea how many hours on the saw when bought used.
I need a saw colonoscopy doctor to be sure to ensure another 10 years. I did get a look at the cylinder walls
when piston was at bottom stroke and it was very clean and shiny with no marks.

What’s your location? I could help you out if you’re only a state or 2 away. Shipping can get out of hand going all the way across the country

 

[rkamp]

What’s your location? I could help you out if you’re only a state or 2 away. Shipping can get out of hand going all the way across the country

Austin, TX area.

 

[rkamp]

It is your saw- you are free to do with it as you wish, new rings certainly won't be a silly idea- well as silly as needlessly replacing an entire top end anyhow.
Sending it to someone that knows this family well may also not be a stupid idea- agree with doing away with the plastic clamp and you can use the same manifold- just trim the plastic clip off and use a steel band clamp from a 372 or Stihl 066 (that is how I fixed the plastic clip on my own 2159).
@sean donato knows a thing or two about these and might be willing to help you out?

Saw is long in the tooth. Now maybe the time to go beyond basic maintenance if not too expensive.

 

[huskihl]

Austin, TX area.

I’m not aware of which members are in the SW. Up to you. Most of my work is porting so the shipping cost is smaller in comparison. Send me a pm if that interests you.

 

[sean donato]

It is your saw- you are free to do with it as you wish, new rings certainly won't be a silly idea- well as silly as needlessly replacing an entire top end anyhow.
Sending it to someone that knows this family well may also not be a stupid idea- agree with doing away with the plastic clamp and you can use the same manifold- just trim the plastic clip off and use a steel band clamp from a 372 or Stihl 066 (that is how I fixed the plastic clip on my own 2159).
@sean donato knows a thing or two about these and might be willing to help you out?

What’s your location? I could help you out if you’re only a state or 2 away. Shipping can get out of hand going all the way across the country

I'm not any closer then @huskihl and he's much more in the know then I am. As he said shipping get a bit costly. Pa to TX is gonna run something around $50.00 one way I would guess. Prolly close to the same for Michigan.

 

[rkamp]

I'm not any closer then @huskihl and he's much more in the know then I am. As he said shipping get a bit costly. Pa to TX is gonna run something around $50.00 one way I would guess. Prolly close to the same for Michigan.

Yup, All that saw knowledge seems to be up North. Will look for someone more local.

Thanks all

 

[sean donato]

May help to post in the wanted section. Gotta be someone closer to you that can look at it. Heck in the past few months I've found out there are a ton of member within 2 hours of me and some just across town. One of the things I love about this place, brings like minded people together that you may have never known about

 

[cuinrearview]

Not sure if he would be interested in helping but @davidwyby has kin in Texas and might be willing...

 

[davidwyby]

Not sure if he would be interested in helping but @davidwyby has kin in Texas and might be willing...

I would but they ain’t saw heads and TX is big, not that close.

 

[davidwyby]

I bet the saw is good to go if it’s running and cutting. I’d hang onto it. I love mine. I am in CA and would look at it/update the clamp if you wanted. Or send to this feller who ported mine, but he is up in WA. @Benwa



I should note that I have a couple by @huskihl as well as having attended a GTG at his place and he knows his stuff. But Ben’s waiting list is probably shorter.