I think I'm buying 373xp tonight..good Lord help me

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What are you comparing it to that you think it doesn't cut well? I have one I just put together without a base gasket. It's only got a couple tanks on it but it blows 160psi and does a real nice job with a 20" bar. I'm going to run a 24" on it from here on out. I'm pleased with it so far, and I've had a Stihl 460.
 
If your not privy on saw stuff bring it into a dealer for a chain sharpening and a tune.
If you want to attempt some of this on your own, get yourself a full chisel chain if it dosent have one already, crank the ooler to the max setting and get yourself a husky/poulan tuning driver.

Setting the high low on these saws is sooo much easier with the 8$ Driver which isnt sold in stores, amazon sells them.

But if you really want to remove the adjuster limiters (these prevent you from turning the screw more than half a turn in any direction with a regular slotted driver) you need to pull the carb. The limiters are metal and you need to keep them to retain tension on the screws themselves so they dont back out due to engine vibrations. You will then need to remove the screws by dicking around with the limiter caps and turning the screws out until they come out completely. Dremel off the limiter boss and re assemble.


Like i said just get the proper tuning driver .

Or bring it in and pay the 20-30 bucks for the dealer to tune it for you
 
You have an x-torq version. There aren't a ton of simple mods for these.

Simplest mod is to take the muffler and bracket off, drill two 3/8 holes through the front bracket and muffler, then put a screen in between and bolt the muffler back on.

Next would be the carb. Check if you have limiters on the H and L needles. Probably just plastic stops. Cut or file those off. Be careful setting the saw too lean, but close will be the best performance.

Get a 24" or 20" b&c. Looks like the rakers on your current chain need dropped too.

The oiler adjustment is accessed from the botom of the saw. Its behind the clutch.

After that you have to get into porting stuff. Not sure if a gasket delete would help
an x-torq or not.
What are the differences from the older model? Air injection or something? It sounds pretty loud and open already but don't see anything done to it.
This 28 inch bar is killing performance as oppsed to a 20inch bar and chain? I definitely do not need a bar this big. This chain is about done. There's not much left of the teeth to sharpen.
The guy told me that he had a high paying customer I want a root ball removed and he basically cut the crap out of it and burned up the chain doing it but the bar looks fine
 
What are you comparing it to that you think it doesn't cut well? I have one I just put together without a base gasket. It's only got a couple tanks on it but it blows 160psi and does a real nice job with a 20" bar. I'm going to run a 24" on it from here on out. I'm pleased with it so far, and I've had a Stihl 460.
It cut kinda slow like it was capable of more. The bar maybe too big . I got the chain plenty sharp but notice the rakers aren't all the same. It's smooth running saw. I think it could just be the bar
 
If your not privy on saw stuff bring it into a dealer for a chain sharpening and a tune.
If you want to attempt some of this on your own, get yourself a full chisel chain if it dosent have one already, crank the ooler to the max setting and get yourself a husky/poulan tuning driver.

Setting the high low on these saws is sooo much easier with the 8$ Driver which isnt sold in stores, amazon sells them.

But if you really want to remove the adjuster limiters (these prevent you from turning the screw more than half a turn in any direction with a regular slotted driver) you need to pull the carb. The limiters are metal and you need to keep them to retain tension on the screws themselves so they dont back out due to engine vibrations. You will then need to remove the screws by dicking around with the limiter caps and turning the screws out until they come out completely. Dremel off the limiter boss and re assemble.


Like i said just get the proper tuning driver .

Or bring it in and pay the 20-30 bucks for the dealer to tune it for you
The saw is basically new. Less than a year old.
I rebuilt a burned up 038 mag. Other than that I'm just a auto mechanic. This saw compares with the 038 mag very closely. The 038 has a 25 inch bar. This 28 is over kill for me.
I haven't heard about the tuning driver. Interesting. I'm not going to change anything on a almost new saw. The bar and chain are probably the biggest factor . This chain isn't that good. I'll post up pics but I need to get a new one. It's a husky chain says 25 on the tooth. Full chisel
 
Chain looks real ugly but could be made to cut with some work. Quick look seem to be skip of some sort.

Get the cutters sharp and set the rakers ~ 0.025"
It's pretty screwed buddy. I got it sharp but looks like it's bad . I made about 10 cuts on half a downed tree semi green that I already cut the other bigger half of with the Makita last week. The rakers aren't consistent. I could go to the local ace stihl and probably get a new chain it's just 3/8 .050 the husky guy here isn't really a husky dealer. He's just one of those guys that doesn't keep anything in stock and if you're dumb enough to have him order something for you he will order it for you and Mark it up. Yup I have my saws in the house haha. This way they are ready to load up in the truck in the morning
 

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4h photo down the taker looks higher than the cutter! Other photos cutters are in consistent length and beyond their life in terms of the sharpening indicator as it’s gone.

New chain throw that in the garbage, IMO too much work to get everything consistant
 
4h photo down the taker looks higher than the cutter! Other photos cutters are in consistent length and beyond their life in terms of the sharpening indicator as it’s gone.

New chain throw that in the garbage, IMO too much work to get everything consistant
They want 33 cents a drive link at Stihl for chain. I'll have to wait. I'm broke.
 
If you are broke, I will give you $265 for the saw. You will have made a profit and no longer be a hypocrite. :):popcorn2:
Sure drive here and come get it. I'll show you around town. Hypocrite? Are you still butt hurt you couldn't sell me some junk saw you rebuilt?
 
Sure drive here and come get it. I'll show you around town. Hypocrite? Are you still butt hurt you couldn't sell me some junk saw you rebuilt?
Not at all. I do not own Stihl or any other junk brand. Plus, I do not have any saws for sale. Just thought I would help you out and purchase that 372 since you dislike Husqvarna and your relative so much. :cheers:
 
Not at all. I do not own Stihl or any other junk brand. Plus, I do not have any saws for sale. Just thought I would help you out and purchase that 372 since you dislike Husqvarna and your relative so much. :cheers:
Do me a favor go troll someone else's thread. I don't need your input or negative commentary.
Your opinion that Stihl is junk is not needed here. It's a childish attempt to offend me. I don't care what your problem is with me.
I bought the saw because the price is too good to pass up. So go bother somebody else and don't worry about what I'm doing find you some business.
 
Do me a favor go troll someone else's thread. I don't need your input or negative commentary.
Your opinion that Stihl is junk is not needed here. It's a childish attempt to offend me. I don't care what your problem is with me.
I bought the saw because the price is too good to pass up. So go bother somebody else and don't worry about what I'm doing find you some business.
Congratulations on your purchase of a 372 in great condition at an outstanding price. Enjoy. Nice running saws in stock form.
 
Congratulations on your purchase of a 372 in great condition at an outstanding price. Enjoy. Nice running saws in stock form.
See now that's the response I figured I would haven't gotten from you originally. Heck I figured you would have been impressed.
I'm going to get a 20 inch bar and chain for it . For now I don't need it. Things are slow here. The guy had a 395xp last week that I should have gotten for my saw mill. This saw isn't cut out for milling.
 
Obviously a low hour saw, but any time that I see a cylinder look that clean, I get concerned that it's been replaced. Have you confirmed that it's an OEM top end?
What would be the easiest way to confirm this. Also is there a date stamp any place on these.
The story to me on the saw was the guy worked for a company and they had another one and it quit working so they bought this one. and then he fixed the other saw which had carburetor issue and he got to keep this one. It was purchased last winter I think.
 

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