If synthetic premium oils are so good?

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albert

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Why are some using the premium racing type oils mixing at heavy at 25-40:1 if they are so great? Plenty of strong, high output saws live and thrive on "lesser" oils just fine at 50:1. Seems like a waste, more costly and more oil.
 
Why are some using the premium racing type oils mixing at heavy at 25-40:1 if they are so great? Plenty of strong, high output saws live and thrive on "lesser" oils just fine at 50:1. Seems like a waste, more costly and more oil.

Synthetic supposivly holds up better in extreme conditions and does not fail at high temps. We started using Ams oil in our van a while back. Ams oil synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission fluid. Over just a year or so, it ate out some gaskets in the tranny. It also has a slow oil leak now. I will never use that crap in a vehicle again. I use synthetic in my saws and other 2 cycles. But when it comes to cars or trucks, Penzoil regular old fashioned motor oil is what I use.
 
Why are some using the premium racing type oils mixing at heavy at 25-40:1 if they are so great? Plenty of strong, high output saws live and thrive on "lesser" oils just fine at 50:1. Seems like a waste, more costly and more oil.

Some of those saws aren't running on gasoline, either, so I think your race saws versus works saws is a bit of apples-to-oranges.
 
I use Klotz R-50 because Andyshine77 told me to several years ago.
I use it at at 36:1 because I'm too cheap to use it at 32:1.
(Actually it seems to run a bit cleaner and less pungent)

I have found something interesting concerning the Klotz R-50.
I haven't funked a carb or had any fuel line troubles since I started using it.

The Poulan Lovers GTG was last weekend and it had been over a year since I ran some of the saws I took to it.
They sat with fuel in the tank, (87 octane ethanol at "up to 10%") since the last PLGTG and every one of them started in just a few pulls and ran like I cut with them the day before.

I don't know if the Klotz has a stabilizer in it, or if the esther synthetics are their own stabilizer but I used to have quite a bit of funked carbs and snarked fuel lines when I ran other oils.
I even had a string trimmer deteriorate the primer bulb and totally funk the carb in just over a month with a good quality oil just before I switched to the Klotz.


Mike
 
I run Klotz at 32:1 in all my modded saws. The protection is unbelievable.

Ok, but why 32:1? Have you tried any saws at 50:1? A good dino at 32:1 has "unbeliievable protection" also. I realize sythetics tend to be cleaner, but not all. You would think "these super oils" would be head and shoulders above good dino and synthetic blends. Most full time loggers and tree men i know run saws day after day on good dino and synthetic blends at 50:1 for years withlittle to no problems, some of these saws are woods ported. I used stihl dino for years in 242xp's, 262xp's 036's, 064's 2101xp modded 260 never any problems. I did switch to husky low smoke blend 2 years ago, mainly do to better price and closer dealer.
 
You're welcome to run whatever you like. Until I'm shown something better I'll continue on as I have been. My reason is as this; I removed the top end of one of my saws that had been sitting for at least a couple of weeks. There was a thick film of oil everywhere. This particular saw runs at over 200 PSI and turns some pretty decent rpm. It gives me a feeling of security to know that the oil I'm running may be overkill. (actually, according to Klotz, it is). Like I said, run whatever you like. If you think you don't need an ester synthetic then don't use one. Oh yeah, I also like the way it smells : )
 
I respect that, but what I'm trying to get at is how much more superior can these oils be if most are running heavier than 50:1. Seems like the old "If a little is good more is better". My modded 260 will 4stroke at 15,800 and run northof 12k in the cut with normal rakers. I pulled the top end last year to tweak the transfers and it looked great, more that enough oil and this saw gets run alot, not just a play toy.
 
It is a simple fact that synthetic oils provide better lubrication with less friction and with stand heat better than conventional dino oils. They also flow better in cold weather. I do not need to know any more than that.
 
It is a simple fact that synthetic oils provide better lubrication with less friction and with stand heat better than conventional dino oils. They also flow better in cold weather. I do not need to know any more than that.

I agree, but why the the 32:1, If it's so good why run so heavy on it?
 
I agree, but why the the 32:1, If it's so good why run so heavy on it?


Because there is more to a chainsaw than a piston and rings.
A set of bearings turning 15,000 rpm needs a good lube and lots of it.
Many of us subscribe to the "better safe than sorry" theory.

When you see a knowledgeable saw builder running a saw at 17,000 to 19,000 rpm and it holding together for an entire season you tend to pay attention to what they say.


Mike
 
I use Klotz R-50 because Andyshine77 told me to several years ago.
I use it at at 36:1 because I'm too cheap to use it at 32:1.
(Actually it seems to run a bit cleaner and less pungent)

I have found something interesting concerning the Klotz R-50.
I haven't funked a carb or had any fuel line troubles since I started using it.

The Poulan Lovers GTG was last weekend and it had been over a year since I ran some of the saws I took to it.
They sat with fuel in the tank, (87 octane ethanol at "up to 10%") since the last PLGTG and every one of them started in just a few pulls and ran like I cut with them the day before.

I don't know if the Klotz has a stabilizer in it, or if the esther synthetics are their own stabilizer but I used to have quite a bit of funked carbs and snarked fuel lines when I ran other oils.
I even had a string trimmer deteriorate the primer bulb and totally funk the carb in just over a month with a good quality oil just before I switched to the Klotz.


Mike

Hmmmmm. Food for thought Mike. Is Klotz a mail order item as I've never seen it for sale locally?
Bob
 
I agree, but why the the 32:1, If it's so good why run so heavy on it?

Well I would say it is personal preference. Many of the guys here have their reasons for the percentage of mix that they run. If that is what is working for them then that is good. Alot of the opinions I see here are from guys that have been working and running saws for years and they have their own valid reasons for what they use. I personly listen to what they have to say and then make my own judgement on what is good for me. I do and will continue to use synthetics because they are that good.
 
Myself and others have done research and have written about two cycle oil to adnausem on this form. My suggestion is to do what I did. Read, read and read.

Remember oil isn't there just for lubrication.

I read and searched plenty. I'm not new to this. I have not read about or know of anyone using Klotz, Belray, Maxima, ect. at 50:1. But most tout how much better an oil they are. Now if Stihl, Husky, Echo can protect well for 2-3000 hrs. at 50:1 and theses oils are so much better, why the need for the extra oil?? Stihl and others claim cooler piston temps at 50:1. I'm not concerned about race saws, just work saws that run 9-12k in the cut.
 
More oil also lowers octane ratings. I don't think 50:1 is strictly an epa thing. More oil will improve ring seal, but at 10k rpms I doubt it. Has anyone run theses oils at 50:1?
 

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