hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
This
just in case 24" bar and chain ms361
- Thread starter ggoodman
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Niko is spot on with this. I used a 24" ES on my 361 to split a 10' long / 25" dia. elm log lengthwise so I could pull it up out of my woods. Definitely too nose heavy but I was pleased with the ability of the saw to pull the bar in this wood.
If you look close, you'll see it's full skip even on my ported 361. It will pull full comp in softwoods, though. I run the skip in hardwoods like the beech you see in the pic.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I can only say that the white oak I showed pictures of up thread was cut with full comp semi chisel. I don't know if I'd say it was "fun" - it was a lot of work and a big effort, but enjoyable. It took a couple of hours, and the terrain was steep and rocky which didn't help. Quartering and moving it will be much more work. It don't believe it did any harm to the saw, and I don't have any plans on buying skip chain for next time.
I would like to have a lighter bar, but not enough to pay a lot for one.
However, I believe the OP was describing a job that needed to be done, not recreation.I believe that for many people it is about what's fun, and what's not - not so much about what really is needed.
At least it is for me!
Depth gauge height has to have big bearing on how a chain cuts. A long bar with high rakers can remove wood at the same speed as a shorter chain with lower depth gauges and vice versa, not exactly the same as the longer chain will have more mass which affects acceleration, friction etc.
Standard Stihl depth gauge tools I've seen are 0.65mm - (25thou)? There is a smaller one for picco chain which is 0.45mm or roughly 18 thousandths of an inch. It might keep the revs up and in the power band...
Standard Stihl depth gauge tools I've seen are 0.65mm - (25thou)? There is a smaller one for picco chain which is 0.45mm or roughly 18 thousandths of an inch. It might keep the revs up and in the power band...
Or hand tools. I get paid by the hour, so technically, it wouldn't matter. But you want to put down as many sticks as possible by the end of the day working professionally, and yer always wanting to do more and better than your work mates. For storm clean up, you have to make do with what ya got. I don't notice a huge difference between skip and full comp cutting spruce, but I do notice a difference when I am limbing them when that skip gets caught on something! It's much smoother to limb with full comp.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
24" on that saw is not really pushing it. (perhaps the oiler) Keep the chain sharp and go to town.
I got by for years with a 38cc Homelite w/ 18" B&C, when the chain was sharp it did OK.
Like the Amish Gent at the Stihl store said "consumers just look at the bar length" when I was in the market for something with a 24" bar he recommended a 460.
Often thought of putting a 28" (just in case) on a strong running 59cc Husky, but really in our hardwood 20" buried is about max for that saw.
24-28" on a 5 cube is just about right, even mobetter on a 6 cube eh?
I got by for years with a 38cc Homelite w/ 18" B&C, when the chain was sharp it did OK.
Like the Amish Gent at the Stihl store said "consumers just look at the bar length" when I was in the market for something with a 24" bar he recommended a 460.
Often thought of putting a 28" (just in case) on a strong running 59cc Husky, but really in our hardwood 20" buried is about max for that saw.
24-28" on a 5 cube is just about right, even mobetter on a 6 cube eh?
SawTroll
Information Collector
There isn't necessarily a contradiction between a job and fun - isn't combining the two what most of us often do?
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
No, they don't have to conflict. And yet when there is a job to do, completing it does not have to be fun while you do have to have a tool that can do it. The original question was about having a tool capable of doing the job - not as a pro trying to maximize output or as a enthusiast looking for the most enjoyment, but as a guy with a job to do and real-life financial limitations to deal with. Too often here that perspective gets lost.There isn't necessarily a contradiction between a job and fun - isn't combining the two what most of us often do?
A person should be able to take enjoyment from a difficult job well done, and from using a good tool that works well, even if every part of doing it was hard work and not particularly fun.
Now I must get back to work.
bag-o-donuts
ArboristSite Operative
I have a lot of first hand experience with 60cc saws wearing 24" bars. It's practically the standard length for that displacement here in the northwest. I promise you, it will work just fine in green pine. Really don't even need to run skip, in my opinion. Full comp will be much smoother especially when limbing as noted above, just crank up the oiler and get to it.
I've run a 25" bar on my old 029 Super on occasion and never had a problem. I guess I was too ignorant to know that it was not possible.
I would prefer to stick with a 20" on that saw, but it won't hurt it at all to run up to a 28" bar, it will just cut slower.
I would prefer to stick with a 20" on that saw, but it won't hurt it at all to run up to a 28" bar, it will just cut slower.
Here's mine after I added a 25" Rollomatic E on it:
It works, but I have to agree with Troll that the saw is pulling hard and struggling. I usually run with a 20" bar and only use the bigger bar when I hit some really big stuff and my 046 or 660 are left behind in the shop. The 046 loves the 25" bar.
It works, but I have to agree with Troll that the saw is pulling hard and struggling. I usually run with a 20" bar and only use the bigger bar when I hit some really big stuff and my 046 or 660 are left behind in the shop. The 046 loves the 25" bar.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I've run a 25" bar on my old 029 Super on occasion and never had a problem. I guess I was too ignorant to know that it was not possible.
I would prefer to stick with a 20" on that saw, but it won't hurt it at all to run up to a 28" bar, it will just cut slower.
A lot is possible, without being a good or sensible solution. In addition to being slow, a too long bar may do harm to the saw engine. You will also harm the bar and chain, if the oiler of the saw isn't up to the task.
Even an MS 390 has trouble with a 25" bar. I ran one side-by-side with an MS 361 this past spring. The 361 won hands down, but as I said before, the 361 works really hard with a 25" bar. Remember that the 390 is nothing more than a 290 bored out with the same technology and a decomp valve that means very little.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I did a lot of work with a 24" on a husky 359. Not ideal, but was OK with a good chain. Having used bigger saws for the past few years, I would be frustrated running that again
Here's mine after I added a 25" Rollomatic E on it:
That is not a Rollamatic E. Read carefully, it is an ES. The (current) ES bars have a replaceable nose sprocket assembly. I had an older E bar that had a replaceable nose assembly. Noses are expensive!
It works, but I have to agree with Troll that the saw is pulling hard and struggling. I usually run with a 20" bar and only use the bigger bar when I hit some really big stuff and my 046 or 660 are left behind in the shop. The 046 loves the 25" bar.
crotchclimber
ArboristSite Operative
Not sure why so many are bagging on the 361 for not being able to pull a 24-25" chain... My 361 has no trouble with the 25" bar buried in dry tropical hardwood stumps. Just use wedges, your dogs and a sharp chain. I did buy a 20" Pro-Lite bar for better balance and maneuverability but the 25" Rollomatic E works fine when I need a bigger bar.
I guess Troll and I are both concerned about overloading an engine designed for a 20" bar. A simple, economical solution is to buy a used 046 and spiff it up. That's what I did and saved over $500 on today's 460. Regardless, the 361 is perhaps the most versatile saw that Stihl ever made. That's why I bought one in early 2008 and own one today.
