lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
the only part i have access to is the 104396 most of my mac parts seem to be for the 10-10 series and so on
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Mac 1-52
- Thread starter blsnelling
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Brad,
Please send me a PM with your e-mail and I will try to get the 1-52 IPL copied and scanned this morning and send it along.
Mark
Brad,
Please send me a PM with your e-mail and I will try to get the 1-52 IPL copied and scanned this morning and send it along.
Mark
Thanks Mark.
I'm having a very hard time starting this old saw once it's sat for a while. The fuel is draining out of the fuel line and is difficult to reprime. I've been spraying carb cleaner into the carb to get it to fire, then holding the choke in and I can watch the fuel draw up. Is it normal for the fuel to drain like that?
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm no expert, but it sounds like you are not getting enough vaccum from the crankcase. Is the manifold loose anywhere? Maybe the line you used has too big of an interior diameter. If you have spark then these saws should be pretty bulletproof. What is the temp where the saw sits between startups?
Everything was put back together with Threebond 1194. The saw is in my garage where it's not that cold. Temp isn't the problem. The saw has 140 PSI compression. Carb kit? The diaphragms aren't hard at all. Once the line's full and the saw's running, it runs like a charm. Very easy to restart.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Yes carb kit. Sounds like the pump flaps are not sealing well. Check the surface where the flaps "land." if it is not clean and smooth, that could be the prob. I have a Remington 770 Super with the same problem. Takes about 25 pulls or priming to get it running. I really should rebuild that carb.
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
No I hadn't replaced the diaphragms. Of course I had disassembled and cleaned. The diaphragms where still soft so I didn't figure they needed replaced. I don't claim to understand the inner workings of a carb but wondered if those flaps were supposed to created a seal preventing drainage of the fuel. I'm going to guess that your completely right here.
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
Also a lot of times with the rebuild kits you get now the flapper valve gaskets are not even made out of the same material as the old ones. Yeah, carbs are finnicky sometimes. One other thing just to check if you go back into the carb is to make sure that your metering lever is not sitting too deep in the carb body.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Before you dig into the carb deep check the screw that holds the cover on. It should have a brass washer under it. Not often but more than once these have not sealed well leading to the situation you are having. I hope that is all it needs.
What cover are you talking about? The one with the fuel inlet and filter screen? Wouldn't that have to be leaking fuel to be a problem?
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
The air box top cover, it is the screw that the black plastic knob attaches to. On top of the carb. there is a screw that has a hex head flush with the carb. and a brass washer under it, it screws into the top of the carb..
I'll have to take a look at that. Hadn't even noticed. Thanks for the tip.
Brad, I had a similar starting problem on my 1050 Tilly HL after setting for several weeks. I believe I found the problem - needle sticking to the seat. I actually turned the carb upside down and tapped on it and the needle stayed put. Once it ran by priming, it was fine.
Also - I've always taken a large flat single cut mill file and carefully flattened the carb mounting surfaces as well as the pump and diaphragm covers - as long as there are no raised sealing beads. Make sure there is shiny metal surrounding the fuel and crankcase impulse passages. I secure the file on the work bench and slowly draw the part over it - turning it often to file in a differnent orientation so you file evenly over the whole surface.
Also - I've always taken a large flat single cut mill file and carefully flattened the carb mounting surfaces as well as the pump and diaphragm covers - as long as there are no raised sealing beads. Make sure there is shiny metal surrounding the fuel and crankcase impulse passages. I secure the file on the work bench and slowly draw the part over it - turning it often to file in a differnent orientation so you file evenly over the whole surface.
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Well what do you know? There is a little brass washer under there
. I just ordered a RK-88-HL genuine Tillotson carb kit for it. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
. I just ordered a RK-88-HL genuine Tillotson carb kit for it. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
Well what do you know? There is a little brass washer under there. I just ordered a RK-88-HL genuine Tillotson carb kit for it. Hopefully that'll do the trick. BTW, the carb is a HL63D.
. I just ordered a RK-88-HL genuine Tillotson carb kit for it. Hopefully that'll do the trick. BTW, the carb is a HL63D.
Anyone have a spare bar nut or two? The bar studs are 3/8". I also need the key and LH threaded nut that goes on the crank to hold on the clutch for the 450 crank that's in this thing now. I believe it has LH 3/8 x 24 threads. Here's a couple shots of the one bar nut I have. I put a Stihl nut beside it for size comparison.
I think you can get Mac bar nuts at the hardware store. They're nothing special.
The walls are thinner than normal and longer. They have to fit down into a recess in the cover.
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