mixing ratios for 2 stroke chainsaws

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Keep in mind hostility doesn't solve problems. We are talking about 2 stroke oil. No need to get personal.

:)

P.S. Put in the best information you can and leave it there. The people who are unknowledgable will become clear to everyone, or at least most of everyone.
 
Keep in mind hostility doesn't solve problems. We are talking about 2 stroke oil. No need to get personal.

:)

P.S. Put in the best information you can and leave it there. The people who are unknowledgable will become clear to everyone, or at least most of everyone.
Except that's not how it works. The least knowledgeable are the most argumentative unfortunately and the most firm in their convictions. This despite the fact they don't have a clue what's going on.
 
Except that's not how it works. The least knowledgeable are the most argumentative unfortunately and the most firm in their convictions. This despite the fact they don't have a clue what's going on.
Yes, but it's usually the most argumentative that I don't give as much weight to.

Idk, maybe I'm just special, but when I see someone "swearing by ____" with only 2nd hand stories, I don't give what their are saying much credit. I like more factual/technical information.

;)
 
A friend has been using outboard motor oil in his saw, he didn't know any better. I persuaded him to start using some proper 2t oil because of the issues with varnish buildup using tcw3.
He had some small empty oil containers set up to pour 40:1 and asked if it would cause problems with an oil marked as 50 :1. He didn't care if it used more oil, he just wanted the simplicity and repeatability. I answered it's not a problem and it's more insurance if you cut in hot weather.
I suppose this would be the preferred mix if you're cutting commercially and you want the most life out of your saw, but most of us don't fall into this category, we have several saws and we rotate the use of them so they'll never get the amount of hours a single saw would in commercial use.

So use the mix and oil you feel comfortable with and what works for you. Most of us will never wear out a saw in our lifetime unless we have just one saw and used it for 20 years, and by then we're ready to move on to the next one.

I prefer oil that burns clean somewhere close to it's recommend ratio, and yes, almost all of it goes out the exhaust, at best a very small amount is left in the crankcase. There's an easy way to prove this to yourself. Cold start your saw, let it idle a minute then rev the throttle a few times and shut it down. Wait 10 minutes and do it again. Repeat this another three or four times. Now go and cut wood for real, your saw will be fogging mosquitoes the next 10 minutes as it burns off all the oil that has accumulated in your muffler.

The best evidence is usually the type you've collected yourself; when in doubt, try it out.
 
Except that's not how it works. The least knowledgeable are the most argumentative unfortunately and the most firm in their convictions. This despite the fact they don't have a clue what's going on.
While I agree with the majority of your previous posts, I will point out that you have come across as both argumentative & firm in your convictions while giving mostly "this is how it is" answers & offering very little further information or reference to help people differentiate those who might "have a clue" & make an educated decision for themselves.
 
While I agree with the majority of your previous posts, I will point out that you have come across as both argumentative & firm in your convictions while giving mostly "this is how it is" answers & offering very little further information or reference to help people differentiate those who might "have a clue" & make an educated decision for themselves.
Agreed. To give him credit, though, he has talked a fair amount about the more technical information, if you go back a few pages and explore some other oil threads.
 
While I agree with the majority of your previous posts, I will point out that you have come across as both argumentative & firm in your convictions while giving mostly "this is how it is" answers & offering very little further information or reference to help people differentiate those who might "have a clue" & make an educated decision for themselves.
This site has a search engine for a reason.
 
According to who ? Or, is it whom ?
By the amount of carbon on my piston splooge out the muffler and wear on my piston on my 3 year old kombi tool I’d say it’s junk. It was mixed out of the little mini bottles from the 6 pack I bought when it was new doesn’t have many hours on it. The Stihl dealer also screwed me over not honouring the warranty and charging me $86 for a air filter spark plug and screen when it needed a carb kit. From now on I will just buy older Stihl equipment fix it myself and run it.
 

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