mama
ArboristSite Operative
Hello a friend of mine asked me if I would take his MS-270C and cut up some wood with it since he hasn't ran it for a few years. Are these pro or homeowner saws.
Ms-270c
- Thread starter mama
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o8f150
Tree Freak
i do believe it is a home owner
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
What does the "C" stand for? That's a new one for me, I guess.
o8f150
Tree Freak
tooless chain adjuster
banjobart
ArboristSite Operative
It's a very good saw, in between homeowner and pro. Cuts smooth as silk with excellent power for a 50cc saw.
anymanusa
ArboristSite Guru
+1, and I see you have a 280 too!
I borrowed an ms270 and liked it so much that I had to have my own!!! I moved up to the 280 though for more power and IEM.
Very pleased so far.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes, but one of the better Stihls in that category.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Power is OK for 50cc, but not really for the weight and bulk of the saw - it is large for its 50cc. The 280 engine fits the basic saw better.
Some have complained that the AV is too soft, but I believe that mostly is related to long and heavy bars.
mama
ArboristSite Operative
Ms-270
Hello is the 270 and the 280 plastic or metal crankcase.
Hello is the 270 and the 280 plastic or metal crankcase.
plastic
iCreek
ArboristSite Guru
I got the 270C saw with a 20" .325 bar and chain. I use it more than my 361 and other saws, light and easy to use A/V. I love it.
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Phatsupratt
ArboristSite Lurker
I got the 270C saw with a 20" .325 bar and chain. I use it more than my 361 and other saws, light and easy to use A/V. I love it.
I have a 270 with a 16" bar and would like a 20" but was told that would bogg the saw down. Did you happen to upgrade from a 16"? If so, did you notice a power loss?
Thanks
ghostrider990
ArboristSite Lurker
My little 180c has the Tool Less chain adjuster....and although it's handy -- i don't particularly care for it.
It just feels....CHeap. Seems like the chain loosens more easily between cuts also.
I guess I'm just used to a heavy-duty saw with two bolts on the bar and a screw-adjusting chain.
Call me old-fashioned! :biggrinbounce2:
gr
It just feels....CHeap. Seems like the chain loosens more easily between cuts also.
I guess I'm just used to a heavy-duty saw with two bolts on the bar and a screw-adjusting chain.
Call me old-fashioned! :biggrinbounce2:
gr
anymanusa
ArboristSite Guru
the 270 and 280 have a metal crankcase. At least the 270 I used, and my 280 do.
While the 270/280 may be easy to work on like a pro saw, they don't have the big aftermarket and used parts availability of the common "pro" designs.
So what's the point of being able to do an easy top end rebuild if your only source for top end parts is full price at the dealer? :monkey:
So what's the point of being able to do an easy top end rebuild if your only source for top end parts is full price at the dealer? :monkey:
SawTroll
Information Collector
Actually it is sort of a "part metal/part plastic" case, an oddity that hasn't been done before or later, at least not in the same way. The main thing to many is that the saw isn't built up like a traditional pro saw, and is not as easy to work on.
The low power to weight ratio, and the bulk of that odd design, pulls the saw firmly out of the pro class anyway.
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banjobart
ArboristSite Operative
The new MS261 is nearly the same thing as a 280. About the same size, weight and power.
The 270 and 280 really respond to a muffller mod, simply enlarging the exhaust hole under the deflector in the muffler with a dremel tool and a carbide burr working from the outside with the muffler held in a vise. In five minutes you are done and the saw comes alive. Since I have arthritis in the right hand I really appreciate the good 270/280 antivibe. If I ran my old 026 for an hour I could hardly pick up a beer for two days. I bought a used 270 and later a new 280 then I was fine to cut all afternoon with no side effects.
The 270 and 280 really respond to a muffller mod, simply enlarging the exhaust hole under the deflector in the muffler with a dremel tool and a carbide burr working from the outside with the muffler held in a vise. In five minutes you are done and the saw comes alive. Since I have arthritis in the right hand I really appreciate the good 270/280 antivibe. If I ran my old 026 for an hour I could hardly pick up a beer for two days. I bought a used 270 and later a new 280 then I was fine to cut all afternoon with no side effects.
I have a 270 and have never done any modding. Would you have any pics. of what you did? Thanks Dan
banjobart
ArboristSite Operative
Under the mufller exhaust hole deflector is a hole about 5/16" diameter. Get in there with a dremel and a 1/8" carbide burr or stone and wiggle it around until the hole is about 5/8" and squarish. Open up the entire area under the deflector. Hold the muffler in a vise in good light while you grind. Do this with the screen out. It is easy. Looks all original. Back out the H screw to the stop on a 270 and with a 280 the saw will retune itself.
