MS250 or MS270

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bohoops

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Hurricane Wilma uprooted several trees in my yard. The biggest is about 16"in diameter. Tired of the junk sold at the big depot stores. Have decided to get either the MS250 or MS270. I will probably be moving to NC or TN in the next few years where I'll cut trees on my property for firewood (not for heating). I'm not looking to make money with this saw but do want a good saw that will last a long time and save me time and energy. One dealer says the 520 is fine and the 270 is over kill, the other dealer says the 270 cuts faster and meets my future needs better, but admits the 520 would also do good job. The difference in price is $80. Don't know if the 'Exclusive tool-less Quick Chain Adjuster' on the 270 is a gimmick or a good idea. Is it worth the extra $80 for the QCA, a little extra hp and the anti-vibration system or am I just being up-sold to something I don't need?
 
saws

For the present situation, I would go with a 250. All the saw you need.
I don't know the tree size at the new location. Either the 250 will still be big enough, or you will be looking for a larger saw.

I will be shot for the suggestion, but a 310 might just cover both places. If you will need a longer bar later.
If not, stick with the 250.
 
With the 250 you will be limited to an 18" bar by the mount...a larger one will not physically fit. I'm not sure the 270 is that much better...but for your current needs and for basic firewood cutting either here or in NC and TN the MS250 with an 18" bar and chisel chain will do a lot of work and it will blow away any homeoner saw you've ever owned. I have an 025...same thing...and I bought in '87 it still runs...butr needs work...I've abused it and treated it liek a pro saw...cut some big trees with it,
J.D.
 
I own a ms 270 and i am very happy with it. It does a good job cutting up timber.the largest tree i have cut was approx a 20" trunk on a spruce. It made short order of it. I think that the 250 is a more proven saw but 270 has a lot of nice features on it and it cuts a little faster. I dont have the QCA but to me it looks to be a little gimmick. But i would also tell you to go out and look at the 260. It is a little more money but i like it a little better than the 270. I own both. then you will have all of your bases covered
 
If yours choice is between 250 or 270 then 270 is screamer compared to 250 which is of course more proven model.
I have MS270 and have using it for the serious forest work too. It overcuts old 026, dont know how is the comparision with 260.
Amzing is its antivibe system. After 8 hours of logging no any jingle-picking in hands :)
 
When you are ready to buy, go back to the dealer and ask to try both saws out. Any good dealer has a log pile for saw demos out back. See what you like. If they won't let you try them, go find a different dealer. Let us know what you get and how you like it.
 
The power to weight ratio of the 270 is not very good because of the high weigh for a 3 cube saw, but if it has to be a non-pro Stihl I think it is a better choise than the 250.
The 280 will give you more power, without additional weight.
 
Bohoops

You can already witness what's happening here ... sawaddiction.

That's why a lot of us have a multitude of saws, they all fill differing roles in the workplace ... but why would a guy who has 7 saws or more have an 025 in his kit? He has plenty of saws with more power and plenty with less, so when would the 025/027 be used?

It would be used in all the typical nitty gritty cutting on the ground under 12" dia stuff. Because it's light, fuel efficient, extremely reliable and cheapest in the range to buy/replace.

I have an 025 that has served a contractors demands in harsh conditions, it's a beautiful saw. I run 3/8 picco chain not that 0.325" junk ... you will never look back, and if an 18" bar is not big enough my friend ... then you are using a toothpick instead of a crowbar. I would suggest you go with 16" 3/8 picco though. Get your dealer to change the drive sprocket/drum to 3/8 and fit you out with the right bar and chain ... you'll never look back.

PS: A little muffler work on top and they really go hard ... for years! :)

Eno
 
Thanks for all the help. I'm a little confused about one thing though! After reading your replies and posts on other topics there seems to be quite a bit of talk about power-to-weight ratios. I could understand the weight issue if you use the saw for a living and your holding an extra 3-4 pounds for 8 hours, but isn't the whole purpose of a saw to cut and to cut easily? Power/weight MS250 - .297hp/lb (10.4 lbs), MS270 - .294hp/lb (11.9lbs), MS260 - .337hp/lb(10.4lbs).The percentages show they are all pretty close, but the weights are slightly different. Is the .003HP/lb a huge difference between the 250 and 270. I thought it was more about HP and RPM. I'm just trying to gain knowledge here. I am truley a novice when it comes to saws and I appreciate all feedback. Also, none of the dealers where I live sell the Husky's. They all say they are being bought out and replacement parts are almost impossible to get (Lowes does sell a few, but what kind of service would I get from them?). There are a couple of ECHO dealers though. Pretty much decided to go with the Stihl. Does altering the muffler void the warranty? Thanks again for the replies.
 
Altering the muffler may void the warranty. Your call.

Power to weight ratio, yeah, why do they do it? Darn silly if you ask me.

I generally find Husky do this to try and make their saws look good. But seriously, we are not into drag cars and 1/4 mile times here.

Echo's are heavy for their engine power in the larger saws. Stihl and Husky are pretty much close.

It is about HP and RPM but some manufacturers will have a few extra pounds of weight ... but you want to choose between a 250 or 270 right?

So hey, the 270's got more grunt so must be better right?

Maybe is the answer... you know what I reckon, just get one of each and you'll be twice as happy. :)
 
Hey bohoops,
I can talk what I look as the main qualities for the saw.
a) engine displacement range needed for the saw and the choice, need I more pro or consumer class product.
b) user friendliety-comfortability, very important is for me and my hands a low saw vibration. I dont want to "kill" myself for some more parts of HP or less pound.
c) price-power-weight as the best package and the support availability

power/weight rato is important, but surely not the main issue. More important may be to put some upper limit for the weight and may be for bar lenght too, what the saw needs to drive.
If the saw will be not for the professional usage then the price gomes as important factor under consideration too. Nonsense is to pay some 1/4-1/3 more money for the geting pro saw if it will be used occasionally (IMO)
The situation with cutting speed is quite the same as for the cars speed.
Driving 60 mph or 70 mph in the real conditions is giving a rather little difference. More important is the time slices before and after 60 or 70 mph driving ;) However, saw power should correspond to the bar attached.
MS250 cant be used with so long bar as MS260 and MS270 can be used.

How to apply this here
250 260 270
power - + +
weight + + -
A-Vibe - - +
bars range available - + +
price + - +
support ? ? ?
 
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Ekka said:
Altering the muffler may void the warranty. Your call.
:)

Either wait out the warranty period to mod the muffler, or purchase a used muffler to put back on the saw if a warranty issue arrises. Some would consider this a form of fraud; your call. If you do a muffler mod keep in mind the stock 025 carb doesn't have a high speed jet; I'm not sure about the MS250.
 
bohoops said:
Is the .003HP/lb a huge difference between the 250 and 270........(Lowes does sell a few, but what kind of service would I get from them?).

The .003 isn't a big deal. The discussion for power to weight becomes more important when talking about the 390 vs the 361. They have the same hp, but the 390 is a heavier saw. And even a pound will add up in your hands at the end of the day.

As far as Lowe's, or any other big, box store for that matter, that's also your call, but unless you're entirely self-sufficient with a wrench and getting parts, I'd not trust them with my purchase. If you go in there with a saw problem, you're going to be talking to a 21 year old kid who's never started a saw who'll tell you to just bring it back, and they'll give you a new one. There's always exceptions, but they're not going to be able to help you adjust your carb, troubleshoot basic problems and so forth. My advice is to avoid Lowe's. Even if you're buying a good saw there, the support for that saw is seriously lacking. Their customer service may be decent, but they can't help you with your saw.

Jeff
 
Thanks for all the help everybody. I have a good wife. She got tired of seeing me do research and went and bought the 270 for me without me knowing it. I used it this afternoon and it was great - so easy. It was like driving a Ferrari instead of a Yugo. I can't believe I worked so hard with the Yugo (1 yr old Poulan Pro). Her reasoning for picking the 270 over the 250? She said, "It was worth the extra $80 not to see me in front of the computer doing research. I got you the one with more HP, so get your ass in the back yard and cut up those 3 trees that fell down". LOL. Maybe I should start researching a new car!!!
 
Yeah that is a good wife...I just hope I'll find somebody who can uinderstand why I liek to play with chainsaws. Ekka...I can't believe your eally think the 3/8" Picco is better on the 025/MS250 than the .325. It my be lighter and mover better, but most STihl dealers around here will only sell you safety cahin 63PM1 in that pitch and even if you can get 63PM yellow label chain, it's still semi chisel. You should runa loop of 23RS or 26RS chisel cahin on your 025 and then tell me that. If you already have...I apologize and maybe I need to try the 3/8" low profile on mine when I get it running right.
 
Qca

vince said:
I dont have the QCA but to me it looks to be a little gimmick.
Gimmick is the word! :mad:
It makes things more complicated, and discourages proper maintenance of the bar.

My rule of thumb is to avoid all Stihl saws with letter suffixes in the model number, except W, WV and WVH.
 
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Congratulations, surprising finish, not bad solution :)
However, there is possibility that you got the infection with "chainsaw microbe" from here ;)
If you plan to use this saw more than for the cleanup of the 3 trees in your property then after breakin or some 5 tanks of fuel, it is not bad idea to check the colour of the spark plug. If it is rather "white" then carb needs (H-screw) some adjusment to enrich mix a littlebit.
 
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