Pinus, thanks for the info. Looks like I'll be checking that plug sooner rather than latter. Some neighbors saw how fast my cleanup went and now I'm their new best friend. LOL. Of course they will have to wait until I take care of relatives with similar fallen tree issues (hurricanes stink). I really can't believe how easy it is to cut through these trees. It's almost effortless. You just let the saw do the work with minimal effort, other than holding onto the saw. Even if I had only used it to cut the 3 trees in my yard it would have been well worth the money I spent. (1) It would have cost more to have somebody do it for me. (2) The amount of time and effort (absolutely no muscle aches afterwards) I saved doing it myself with this new toy was well worth the price of the saw. (3) I now have a great saw. This is one item where the "you get what you pay for" cliché is true.
MS250 or MS270
- Thread starter bohoops
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Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, nice choice. Nice wife too. If you think it cuts great now, wait until the rakers are filed down about 0.015". Make sure you stay at 25 degrees across the cutters.bohoops said:
Great!bohoops said:
Spark plug boot feels guite tight on this model, at least on my 270, and is reachable only after removal of the air filter cover
If saw feeds easily itself into wood, without additional stressing on it, then chain is sharp and cutting depth correct.
Cutting hardwoods and frozen wood I try to sharpen (slightly) chain after evry tank of fuel. In the case of softwoods this can be done after 2 tanks of fuel.
Sawmen "history"
after first 10-20 tanks of fuel the basic imagination about chain sharpening procedure. Hands are geting adapted to hold saw properly
after some 50 tanks U will get the skill to controll saw in all common situations and can mantain chain reasonably only with the file without grinding.
after some 100 tanks U is practically ready to do all itself and can "live in bush" with chainsaw alone some time.
Diesel JD
ArboristSite Guru
The 025/MS250 is the same way with the spark plug boot. Keep that chain sharp and it'll keep cutting like that. Filing the chain is not hard, but the biggest mistake newbies make is taking too much off or waiting too long to sharpen. With my 025, I wound up chainging the chain or sharpening after every couple of cords of firewood I cut...with the 390, I'm being even pickier about chain maintenance. The sharper that chain is the better. I'm glad you like your 270 and glad we missed out on the hurricanes(so far) this year in G-ville. We had our turn last year.
This was my 4th hurricane in 13 months. Lost a very large Oak tree last year as well as some other small ones. Wish I had this saw last year. I've been fortunate, All the trees lost went in the opposite direction of my house. I will have to learn how to sharpen the chain.
At the first you should find what type of chain you have on the saw. Probably something like 26RM or 26RM2. Then you should get the round file with proper diameter from saw shop and flat file for filing of chain rackers. There is variety of different filing accessories what can be used too. Like file guides and depth gauge tools. Without the last one it is difficult to keep chain cutting normally in a little longer perspective. File guide is needful for newbies and them who are not treating each chain tooth individually. Not looking and estimating always before filing the owerall contition of the individual tooth and not comparing it to the "average tooth" of the chain.
You can look for example: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf
You can look for example: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf
Thanks for being so helpful. It has been a good learning experience. Gained lots of new knowledge that I was able to apply immediately. Ended up with a great saw and saved a lot of work and money (the saw was cheaper than having somebody cut the trees). This was a win-win situation for me. I'll check out the web-site you furnished. I'll be a frequent visitor here to learn lots of new stuff from you pros.
16gauge
ArboristSite Operative
The biggest is about 16"in diameter.
Bohoops, Just my opinion but cutting 16" wood with an 18 bar setup can be done alright but the advantage of a 20" bar with more power becomes evident after jumping over a downed log a few times to finish the cut. Kickback can also become an issue if the bar does not make the full diameter especially if you are rocking the bar and not prepared for it.
So...congratulations on picking a saw sufficient for your needs, or rather, congratulations on the choice of saw to your wife.
Bohoops, Just my opinion but cutting 16" wood with an 18 bar setup can be done alright but the advantage of a 20" bar with more power becomes evident after jumping over a downed log a few times to finish the cut. Kickback can also become an issue if the bar does not make the full diameter especially if you are rocking the bar and not prepared for it.
So...congratulations on picking a saw sufficient for your needs, or rather, congratulations on the choice of saw to your wife.
Fish
Tree Freak
Let's see some wife pics.
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