My New Husqvarna 359

[danrclem]

Is this just a bolt on, or is some carb tuning required to get it right? I don't like the looks of this chain one bit, I figure its going to be replaced real soon. If I'm correct, I should be able to go and ask for a Jonsered 2159 20" chain, right?

When I put a non cat on my 359 I didn't have to change the carb settings. I checked it out on a tach and it was ok but that doesn't mean that yours won't need to be reset. Just look on your bar and it will tell you what gauge and pitch it is and take those numbers to your dealer and he'll set you up. It will probably be an .050 or .058 with a 3/8" pitch.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The 359 I just picked up I got for cheap, really cheap. I'll probably keep it and play with it. We'll have to start a "how to hot rod the 359" thread. I'm in the reading up on the saw series right now, next step is to find someone to cut the base on my cylinder...

You can sure wake a stock 359 up with a muffler mod and a woods port, loose the gasket and mine run with a .021 squish. The base could be shaved and run the squish at .017- .019 for a work saw.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Mastermind]

You can sure wake a stock 359 up with a muffler mod and a woods port, loose the gasket and mine run with a .021 squish. The base could be shaved and run the squish at .017- .019 for a wpork saw.
Pioneerguy600

Thanks for the information Jerry. I just assumed the the 359 would be like some other Husqvarnas I've checked the squish on. The 350, 51, and 55 that I checked had squish in the upper .030s and sported a thin gasket to boot.

I'll be cleaning up the 359 and tearing it down after lunch today. I plan to pull a vacuum on it and check the squish before I pull the jug. I'll post my findings later on.

 

[SawTroll]

.....
If I see the chain right, your not gonna like it with the funky rakers. I'd take it back and get a 16" bar and a better chisel chain if you haven't used it yet. That Vangaurd chain is junk
John

:agree2:

Congrats on the new saw. The only thing I would recommend would be buying a non cat muffler (I assume yours has a cat because mine did) and putting it on ASAP. It gave mine a little more power and let it run cooler. Then if you get to feeling spunky you can always muff-mod and port it.

:agree2:

I'd put a loop of either Oregon LGX or Stihl RS or RSC chain on her. Nothing really wrong with Vanguard chain but it doesn't cut near as fast as chisel chain. I would also let the saw idle down for a few seconds in between big diameter cuts.

The Vanguard is chisel chain - it is just the special rakers that mess up an otherwise very good chain!

 

[Grapple Man]

359

i have a 359 ported by snelling, it is not my only ported saw, but is is my most amazing ported saw so far. it will turn over 15K and hold 11,500 in the cut with 20" bar and LGX on it. the saw is great for felling, and not so heavy that you can't pack it around cutting hedge posts. i will say that since it has been ported it is not a saw for the faint of heart or the light on experience type of cutter. The saw has tons, i mean tons of torque and will pull you right in or push you right away from the tree when you bury the bar.

great saw congrats.

 

[outdoortype]

Thanks for the correction

:agree2:



:agree2:



The Vanguard is chisel chain - it is just the special rakers that mess up an otherwise very good chain!

You're right as usual ST. I don't see what big deal with the rakers is. Yes, they look weird buy can be maintained the same as standard rakers. I saw one up close and I would rather deal with it than all of the extra humps on competitor "Safety" chains.

 

[MCW]

You're right as usual ST. I don't see what big deal with the rakers is. Yes, they look weird buy can be maintained the same as standard rakers. I saw one up close and I would rather deal with it than all of the extra humps on competitor "Safety" chains.

Actually mate they are very difficult to maintain. A loop I had cut "OK" but when it came to dropping, or more likely attempting to "shape" the rakers I gave up and in the bin it went about 30% used. Unless you want to spend a lot of time grinding off every "dog ear" without hitting the main raker "upright" (therefore dropping the raker height too much), then shaping the tops etc they aren't worth the trouble.
I agree though, they are way better than other safety chains and at least have some potential

 

[Mastermind]

I got the chance to work on my 359 today, I tried to pull a vacuum on it and couldn't get any. I shot 10 psi in it and sprayed it down with soapy water and the bubbling began.

I checked everywhere else and the intake boot was the only leak. The plastic clamp was softened from oil saturation and had come unlocked. This is the second Husqvarna I've had with this type of clamping system on the intake and both were loose, and both saws were fried. That's the only way I can afford one...lol.

I checked the squish and it was .035, the cylinder base gasket was .017. Removing the gasket should bring the squish to .018. Is this enough clearance? I ran a 026 with .018, but it's a smaller displacement saw. I'm out of my field of expertize when I start working on two strokes, but I am learning.

The bore will clean up with no problems. I plan to widen and clean up the ports a bit, put a new piston kit in it and see if I like it. I've not really ran a Husqvarna a lot, maybe this will make me sell my Stihls...or not...lol.