My splitter build

[Haywire Haywood]

Kevin, you are correct. All the fittings on both the cylinder and the valve are 1/2" pipe thread. I ordered some 1/2 to 3/4 straight adapters and will just have the hose shop use 3/4" 90 deg swivel fittings for hose ends.

I'm going to have to fiddle with the governor on the engine some.. it only runs about 3300 with the screw adjustment maxed out. Thumb it over and it shoots up over 4k, I'd like to see about 3600. If it weren't an older engine without the benefit of full pressure lubrication, I'd be tempted to run it up to 3800. I think the pump is rated for 4k.

Ian

 

[palmrose2]

Excellent post Kevin J.

I've thought for a while that a heavier flywheel to store energy would help a splitter engine. Not that heavy flywheels are available for small air cooled engines. Aftermarket heavy flywheels are available for 4 cyl. jeeps and they work great for crawling around slowly while not stalling or slipping the clutch.

I'm in the brainstorming stage of building a splitter powered by a 10 hp engine that happens to have a couple of pulleys on the crankshaft. A flywheel (energy storage device) somewhere in the drive line may just free up some possibilities as per pump selection.

 

[palmrose2]

Finally found a donor engine...

That engine may finally be taxed. Probably came with a 40"-44" mower deck and was greatly over powered. My old 1969 Simplicity sports a 12 hp Briggs with a 48" deck and cuts grass just fine. Most likely That POS lawn tractor has 1/4 of the life that a good strong Briggs has. Give er heck.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

That engine may finally be taxed. Probably came with a 40"-44" mower deck and was greatly over powered. My old 1969 Simplicity sports a 12 hp Briggs with a 48" deck and cuts grass just fine. Most likely That POS lawn tractor has 1/4 of the life that a good strong Briggs has. Give er heck.

My JD has a 48" deck and a 17hp Kawasaki. Unless the blades are razor, it doesn't like cutting 6" of grass. It leaves stripes between the blades unless I slow down considerably, especially if I'm turning a tight corner. I'm always fantasizing about 5 more hp and a bigger pulley for more blade speed. I can't imagine having just 12hp on that mower.

Ian

 

[jags]

Ian, I run a 1976 Allis Chalmers Hydro with a 48" deck that is being pulled along with a 12HP Kohler. Trust me when I say "that sucker can chug through some grass".

I think the main difference is: back in the day, the decks were built taller and the blades did not spin as fast as they do on todays tractors (requiring less HP). It may not give quite as good "finish" cut, but in my yard, that ain't no big deal, its very acceptable for a farm.

(Not too mention that I would really like to see a dyno test comparing a 12HP cast iron Kohler to some of the new engines. I'll bet the torque is closer than most think.)

 

[palmrose2]

Ian, I run a 1976 Allis Chalmers Hydro with a 48" deck that is being pulled along with a 12HP Kohler. Trust me when I say "that sucker can chug through some grass".

)

Allis Chalmers = Simplicity. Look it up. John Deere never made a tractor that could compare with a Simplicity Sovereign or it's equivalent Allis, Agco, etc.

I really don't want to hijack this great thread but to people that know, Simplicity can't be beat any green machine.

http://simpletractors.com/

 

[jags]

Allis Chalmers = Simplicity. Look it up.

No need, being the owner of a B1 a B10 a 712H and a 916H, I am familiar with the AC/Simplicity relationship. (and thats a good thing)

Now back to our regularly scheduled "My splitter build"

 

[ericjeeper]

It is the "Pitch'

On the modern mowers that lift and blow the grass out.. That is what eats the horsepower. Just listen to them bog, by simply engaging the deck..

 

[wkpoor]

On the modern mowers that lift and blow the grass out.. That is what eats the horsepower. Just listen to them bog, by simply engaging the deck..

They bogg because of the lean carb setting. Simply pull the choke out a little or just before it starts to run rough and then engage the deck. You'll find they spin up without hesitation. Then put choke off.

Man HW, I haven't followed this thread and now I'll have to read for a month to catch up.

 

[wkpoor]

My JD has a 48" deck and a 17hp Kawasaki. Unless the blades are razor, it doesn't like cutting 6" of grass. It leaves stripes between the blades unless I slow down considerably, especially if I'm turning a tight corner. I'm always fantasizing about 5 more hp and a bigger pulley for more blade speed. I can't imagine having just 12hp on that mower

Somethings wrong HW. I've turning 72" w/24HP with power to spare even in deep grass and almost never have a windrow problem. Mine is a LandPride same as the Hustler Z.

 

[wkpoor]

HW, when you get this thing done I've got the perfect proving ground hehehehehehe. Just bring it over to the next GTG about a day early and I'll let you test it out all you want. I've got logs stacked out the wazoooo right now.:greenchainsaw:

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Bill, I like you and all but I'm not getting anywhere near your wazoooo. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Ian

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Bought hoses and fittings today.. WOW Sticker Shock big time. 3/4" hose is some pricey stuff.

Ian

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Well... it's almost ready for a test run. The only thing holding me back is one adapter that I forgot to buy at the hose shop.

The engine and pump are mounted, the hoses (-1) are connected and the hydraulic tank is filled.

The engine controls aren't mounted in the right place yet, the battery box isn't mounted and I have to wire the switch panel. All that will probably be done before I can get the adapter. The hydraulic shop is in the opposite direction from my work, so I won't be able to go get the adapter until next Monday.

The exhaust is the stock can that came on the engine, but I bought a 12" long x 3" diameter round muffler that we're going to put on it. That'll come along as we get time to drive the 60 miles down to where the free-to-use pipe bending equipment is.

This thing better work... the hoses pushed the grand total to over $1000 cash out of pocket, not including the value of the trading material for the base splitter that it's built around.

It's getting closer, be it exhilaration or let down. I'll find out next Monday.

Ian

 

[England14]

Bought hoses and fittings today.. WOW Sticker Shock big time. 3/4" hose is some pricey stuff.

Ian

Betcha 1/2 inch hose would have worked same as the 3/4! But we'll never know for sure, will we? :monkey:

 

[Haywire Haywood]

We can know if you're interested... I'll send you hose lengths and fitting type and you can send me a set... LOL I'll even send them back after the test.

Ian

 

[wkpoor]

I had everybit of 250.00 in hoses, QD's, and fittings in my project. So I know that is one area to easily overlook on a splitter project.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I had every bit of 250.00 in hoses, QD's, and fittings in my project. So I know that is one area to easily overlook on a splitter project.

Mine set me back $365. That price included the lovejoy.

Ian

 

[wkpoor]

Easy to see why commercial splitters mount the valve on the cylinder and integrate the components as much as possible. TW and other top grade units seem expensive for sure until you build one and see what some of the costs are. If I remember right just one hyd 3/4 90% fitting was about 10 bucks. I had to buy a swivel for the return so the hose wouldn't kink on the 3pt unit. Little things like start to add up. A 1" QD AND A 3/4" QD will set you back too as I needed those to be able easily remove the pump from the PTO. Much easier that way then wrestling it with hoses attached. And on and on and on.

 

[blsnelling]

Hey Ian. Nice looking splitter you've got coming together here. Every now and then I venture out of the chainsaw forum and found this thread a few days ago. I'm anxious to see how it does. Nice work!