New kinetic splitter launched by Split Second Log Splitter

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On the DR, I had a couple parts that bent within the 1st month. I was watching the thread on here about the issues others were having. Even though DR was great with customer service and sent the part out right away, I didn't want to get stuck with it after the warranty expired.
The engagment handle was pretty easy to use. Lift or pull....same difference.
The log cradle was definitely a pain in the neck. I have all the same wood, and the SS has split everything I have on my wood lot. The DR did have some issues with some twisted birch..the SS goes right through it.

How did you attache the UHMMWPE to the production table?? Sounds like a good idea, although I have not really noticed any friction. It could also be that where I split, the splitter is on a slight downhilll...
I do like the log lift idea, although for me it is not needed. I load my round into the bucket of my tractor and position it so I can pull them off on to the table.
What originally enticed you to buy DR rather than SS? Was the right of return on the DR enough to give them a go compared to SS? I ask because perhaps it's something SSLS should consider if they want to show the market how much faith they have in their product?

Bolted the UHMWPE to the metal table, allowing room for movement in case they have different rates of expansion. Cut and re-welded the table supports to drop the metal table down the thickness of the plastic. If you haven't noticed any friction when dragging wood back to the wedge to be re-split, then I'd probably guess the wood you are splitting is quite small? But to be honest, unless I had experimented with it and realised how easy it could be rather than just how easy enough it seemed without the lower friction table, I wouldn't have appreciated how much less effort it takes, especially on the bigger/heavier wood.
 
So is this made in the USA? Or overseas?
And please no BS about final assembly in the US. Either it has a "made in the USA" label or not.

Sorry if I missed it but was there an answer to this please? I'm actually keen to learn how many parts, if any, are sourced out of USA.
 
Never mind, I looked it up. Kiwi, if you don't mind, (Not to be impolite), what did your sheet cost?
It was a few years ago but it wasn't cheap. I think it cost me about around US$80-100 for about a half-sheet of 1/2" but I have used the offcuts for all manner of uses such as to replace bearings in low load situations, a new bed/base on my hand held plunge router (after planing the material down to about 1/4" thickness), etc. Still got a few on a shelf in the shed for when the need arises. I have been amazed at how little wear there is too. Main concern is water getting trapped between plastic and metal, rusting the metal out.
 
It was a few years ago but it wasn't cheap. I think it cost me about around US$80-100 for about a half-sheet of 1/2" but I have used the offcuts for all manner of uses such as to replace bearings in low load situations, a new bed base on my hand held plunge router, etc. Still got a few on a shelf in the shed for when the need arises. I have been amazed at how little wear there is too. Main concern is water getting trapped between plastic and metal, rusting the metal out.

Not to further hijack the thread, but what if you either shot the metal base with paint or clear lacquer? That might help to stave off disaster.
 
Not to further hijack the thread, but what if you either shot the metal base with paint or clear lacquer? That might help to stave off disaster.
Yeah, or route some breathing grooves into the underside of the plastic and/or drill holes in the metal table. I really didn't want to damage the metal table at first just in case this plastic idea didn't work or didn't hold up to daily abuse, but I'm comfortable enough with it now that I really should get on to doing something about the moisture that can get in there between them.
 
i will stick to swinging my axe. i need the exercise and i really don't have the extra cash for fancy shiny splitter.
 
Better yet, bond it to the table with a 2 part sealant. No gap.
Might look into that some more. Do you know what sort will handle this plastic and metal bond? From memory, this type of plastic is a bit of a tricky one to bond and may need something fairly 'speciality'.
 
Might look into that some more. Do you know what sort will handle this plastic and metal bond? From memory, this type of plastic is a bit of a tricky one to bond and may need something fairly 'speciality'.


I would not bother with glue uhmwpe is a pain to get any thing to stick to.
Just unbolt it and slap some Res-Q-Steel under it
 
I originally bought the DR becasue it was lower in price and had the return warranty. I learned my lesson, saved up and bought the SS which had a stellar reputation and track record.
Like everybody as been saying, SSLS really needs to drop the 2 hand operation. When you combine their price and the 2 hand operation, I think it will keep enough people away from it.

Since DR changed their engagement design to the 2 hand operation, havn't heard much talk about the failures like I had. Maybe that is why SSLS uses the 2 hand version,......they havn't figured out what Paul has for using 1 hand.
 
I see price as a killer here, and the question of is it made in the USA has not been answered.

If you want creditability you have to answer this question.



You didn't read the answer they already posted?



Mr. HE:cool:
 
Hope everyone had a great weekend.

Wanted to comment on a few of the items since our last post.

There was a question about trusting the splitter as road towable. We have designed the unit with DOT approved 45 MPH tire/wheel components including tapered roller bearings/greased hub on the wheel. Also as a part of that thought we designed in such a way to lower the center of gravity of the unit and widen it's wheel span greater than others in the market to give us the stability we were looking for in the unit. We also added a marker to the splitter so you can see it behind the vehicle while towing. We have towed our test units over 1000 miles successfully.

As far as charity cuts go keep us in the loop on dates/locations and we will try and make arrangements to be at one to allow people see it in action and try it out. Are those usually one day events and where does the wood go to after it has been split?

Final comment is on the USA content questions. The majority of the important functional parts of the splitter are manufacturing here in the states and the entire assembly operation is done here in Sullivan, Illinois. Here is a quick list of those parts: Rack and pinion gear drive system, internal splitter actuation mechanism and it's parts, splitting ram/sled, I-Beam, Wedge, Structural tube frame, splitter housing, steel work table, wheel spindles, and retractable hitch tube. As I had said in the opening comments one of our philosophies as a company is try and maintain as high a USA content as possible on anything we do so we have invested in full machining, fabrication, welding(robot/manual),powder coating, and assembly capabilities here in Sullivan.

We would also like to offer up a tour and first hand demo if anybody on the board finds themselves headed past Sullivan, Illinois on their business or vacation travels. Give us a heads up and we should be able to make it work. Thanks for all of the great discussion and questions. Keep it coming.
 

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