New saw owner question(s)

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Greg Lees

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After reading so much helpful information on this site, I am picking up my MS361 this week and have a couple of questions. The standard bar (20") is solid and have negotiated to swap for the Rollomatic ES (replaceable tip) bar. My reason was one of convenience in that if the tip became damaged, I could replace it without the need to buy a new bar. Are there any negatives to the ES bar vs. the one that comes on the saw (Rollomatic E)?

Second, are the standard cases that Stihl makes built for longevity? I saw one yesterday and the hinge that the case opens on is not really a hinge, but rather a thin piece of plastic that, I suspect, is designed to flex and flex. There is no way to fix the hinge should it fail.

I am 6'4" and need a pair of chaps or pants. My inseam (stocking feet) is 36" and saw the Stihl apparel and the ones offered by Bailey's. I would think the material offered by Bailey's is designed for longer life in that it is cordura and kevlar over wool felt, but they only come in 30" inseam (too short.) Would using a pair of Filson double tin pants work as well or is it advisable to use the type that grabs the chain vs. deflects the chain?

Thanks for the help and sorry for the long post. I'm sure I'll have more ?s as time goes on.

Greg Lees
 
Welcome Greg, Tip replacement is not a common as you might think. The bar is usally bent or worn out by the time the tip is shot (usually). The ES bar is built to be more durable overall.
The case should last a very long time, don't be bothered by the hinge.
I think Elvex makes chaps with a longer inseam than the other, I'll check into it for you.
 
Replacable tip

My local dealer says that he does not recommend the extra price for the ES he says the tips are not replaced that much now adays it is not worth it becuase of the price of the tip, rivits, and the labor charge. I have one of the cases and it has lasted for 4 years the hinges looked cheap but have held up so well. You madea great choice with the ms 361 they work great and are a excellent midsize saw.
 
something I would recommend is to get a bar with a gauge of 50 thousands. It will allow you to readily try chain from different manufacturer's as most dealers stihl, husky, dolmar. should have the .050 in stock.

Lucky
 
Yes, as the others say, don't buy an ES just for the potential tip replacement. It is however a stronger bar - solid steel (and slightly heavier) than the laminated Rollomatic E version.

Also, I'm sure Stihl make a 36" in-seam chaps.
 
Welcome to the AS and congratulations on the MS361, as you can see by my signature block; I'm prejudiced. :D

I cannot give you scientific proof; but, I have both the E and ES bars and prefer the performance of the ES, real or imagined.

And those carrying cases are pretty durable in spite of appearances. I had a very old one that broke; took a piece of good thick, but flexible plastic about 2"x4" and put it on with some screws, two above and two below the hinge point and you would never know it was not a brand new case. My point being, is they last a long time, and its pretty simple to repair one with a little imagination. I probably could have screwed on a metal hinge if I had one of the right size; but, the piece of heavy duty plastic works like a jewel. It don't look bad and besides, there is no 1st Sgt gonna do an inspection of it anyway. :D

Good luck with your MS361.
 
Great choice with the 361. If you've read my previous post, you know how I feel about mine:D First thing I would do is get rid of the RM2 safety chain that comes standard and replace it with a standard RM for dirty wood or the RS for hardwood or standing timber. I used the RM for the first time today cutting up some pine that was down for a while, and it is a major improvement over the RM2. The RS absolutely flies through hardwood, but watch that kickback as it is noticably increased. Stay safe and have fun...you wont regret your purchase;)
 
Thanks everybody for the replies!

I was able to get the E bar swapped for the ES at no charge and also got a RS replacement chain for $15 with the deal. Case is $10.

Is my thought of using Filson tin pants not recommended? I have a pair of tin/shelter cloth hunting pants and they are thick and stiff (and they're not as stiff as double tin pants.) Has anyone ever used such a pair and had an encounter with a saw?

As far as the Stihl/traditional versions, I guess I can see myself snagging them on something or nicking them with the saw and then wondering if I should replace them because I may have pulled too many internal threads to render the pants unsafe. (?)
 
Get a good set of recent design chaps. They are much more effective at helping to protect you than are ones that attempt to block the chain. They are not armour and should not be regarded as such. They are designed to help prevent injury by jamming the chain and allowing you time to react and prevent further injury. Short of thick steel armour plate, your chain will cut through almost any reasonable clothing, possibly even the chaps designed to stop it. they are the best currently and available and should always be worn, particularly if you are new at running a saw, but shouldn't be forgotten when you get more comfortable, as complacency can then bite you.

Nice choice on the saw. It should prove to be a good choice. respect it and maintain it well, and it will last a long time.

As to the bar choice, the ES is a better bar for all the reasons already mentioned. You are very unlikely to regret it. The only downside to the ES over the E is the slightly higher price.

Be safe, happy sawing, and welcome to the forum.
 
Yeah, I'd agree with going longer on the chaps. I'm 6'0" and use 40" chaps, and they cover to my ankle. But that's only because I work for the forest circus, and I'd rather have more protection for my $520 boots. The 40" FSS chaps have a third clip at the bottom, so they stay more snug to my legs, and I don't get snagged up as much.
 
Greg Lees said:
Is my thought of using Filson tin pants not recommended? I have a pair of tin/shelter cloth hunting pants and they are thick and stiff (and they're not as stiff as double tin pants.) Has anyone ever used such a pair and had an encounter with a saw?

I wear Filson exclusively...with Labonville pads underneath them. I've got five different pair of Filson pants that each get worn according to the time of year and weather I'm wearing them in. I didn't want to mount snaps on my nice Filson to hang the pads from, so I cut the pads at the top, but above the Kevlar so they hang from my suspenders, inside my pants. Even Filson double tin should not be relied upon to protect against saw injury. I wear them to stand up to the brush I move through in timber. I wear the pads to keep the saw out of my leg.

I wear chaps while in my yard cutting firewood, where brush isn't a concern. I've got a pair of the Woodsman Pro's out of Bailey's. They've got them all the way up to XXL-36" pad/40" length. That should be more than long enough.

Here's a Filson pic. Best stuff there is. I wear it fishing, hunting and cutting wood. What else is there?

Jeff
 
Greg Lees said:
.. Are there any negatives to the ES bar vs. the one that comes on the saw (Rollomatic E)? ....
More weight and a more front heavy saw, and more money out the window if you damage it.
 
Well, I thought I had researched this thoroughly, but in looking at the Stihl chain/bar guide on the Stihl website, it looks as if they don't make a Rollomatic ES (Super) 20" bar for the MS361. If I read the guide right, the closest thing they offer is a 22" ES bar in .063 gauge.

Am I correct or is there another, more recent Stihl guide available?

Thanks,

Greg Lees
 
Greg Lees said:
Well, I thought I had researched this thoroughly, but in looking at the Stihl chain/bar guide on the Stihl website, it looks as if they don't make a Rollomatic ES (Super) 20" bar for the MS361. If I read the guide right, the closest thing they offer is a 22" ES bar in .063 gauge.

Am I correct or is there another, more recent Stihl guide available?

Thanks,

Greg Lees

I wouldn't sweat it. I think the ES is a better, stronger bar, but how large of timber will you be tackling with the 20" anyway? That 20" "E" will do you fine. Of course that's easy for me to say. I only use ridiculously huge ES bars anyway! :blob2:

Jeff
 
Greg Lees said:
Well, I thought I had researched this thoroughly, but in looking at the Stihl chain/bar guide on the Stihl website, it looks as if they don't make a Rollomatic ES (Super) 20" bar for the MS361. If I read the guide right, the closest thing they offer is a 22" ES bar in .063 gauge.

Am I correct or is there another, more recent Stihl guide available?

Thanks,

Greg Lees


I'm showing them available in .063... and have been for a long time. 3003-000-9421 and 3003-000-9821 (wide tip for boring). I get 3/8 .050 in ES all the time.
 
Greg Lees said:
.... it looks as if they don't make a Rollomatic ES (Super) 20" bar for the MS361. If I read the guide right, the closest thing they offer is a 22" ES bar in .063 gauge.
....
Are you sure that isn't a misprint?
I have never heard of 22" Stihl bars.

The 20" ES .063 with wide tip (13 teeth nose sprocket) is still listed at Stihls German site...
....but an ordinary "E" will be lighter, and still hold up pretty good under normal coditions.
 

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