Newbie Question - building splitter

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so....would it make more sense to have the wedge travel into the wood, or use the standard push plate into a stationary wedge?

in other words, since the wedge has a small surface area, the tonnage should be constant if it travels into the wood....right?

The location of the wedge will not make a difference in tonnage.The best position of the wedge depends on how the machine is used ,horizontal or vertical.
 
The location of the wedge will not make a difference in tonnage.The best position of the wedge depends on how the machine is used ,horizontal or vertical.

If you are splitting large rounds,..and using a large push plate,...18in rd, 18 in push plate, there is going to be a mesureable amount of pressure difference,.Trust me you dont need to test this theriory, its fact,..At least 1 has boasted the reason timber wolf cost as much as they do IS because,..they already knew this,..So tell me why more than 1 of there splitters has a heart shaped push plate,?? Some of you know BOB of webberville mi,..Have you seen the used splitter he has for sale,?, got a heart shaped pusher plate,? the ears are bent significantily back,?, This a heart shaped pusher , I have never seen a pusher plate bent as bad as this timberwolf was,..THE hinge effect is easy to understand, The timberwolf pusher design is not,..Not strong enough,? yea,..THE Question is, why have a WIDE pusher in the first place,?...Iam lookin for a gearhead answer,.or the equvlint, Why do they make a pusher wider than the beam,. Iam a timberwolf fan, But not blind to there design problems,..Iam cerious as why any manf co would build a splitter with a wide pusher,?..Iam no expert BUT I dont get the reason for a wide pusher ?. Any body, please explain the advantage,...
 
i made mine 8 x 8 x 1. the reason for that is i'm using an 8" H beam, so i wanted it to fit. my cylinder is a 6" diameter with a 2" rod.

if i was using a 6" beam, i probably would have made the pusher 6 x 6 x 1.

i just made it to fit the beam and didn't give any thought to hydraulic theory when designing that part. maybe i'm losing tonnage...i really don't know, but it hasn't bogged down yet.
 
I should clarify a few things.

First, a wider well supported plate opposite the wedge requires more pressure to split but also requires less travel of the wedge to complete the task.

Second, the wide plate has the similar effect as putting wings on the wedge.

Third, the wide plate is best suited for for a splitter with the wedge mounted on the cylinder. When the push plate is attached to the cylinder and is too wide it may cause the slide to twist and bind if the block being split is not cut squarely.

A 4" cylinder with a narrow wedge and narrow push plate can almost match a 5" cylinder with a winged wedge and wide plate in ability to split wood but the wider wedge and plate will require less travel to complete the split. If you have the tonnage available you can speed up the splitting process and make almost anything work.

I am not a engineer I build splitters as a hobby. I make about one splitter a year using one basic style each time trying to make improvements.
 
I don't buy into that logic! ........though it may be a very, very small factor.

Another instance: I built my push block too large! 20 wide x 18 high, the torsional load is killing me!!! A little math, and I have 70,000 plus pounds centered, add that to the outside, and you see why I am TEARING 1/2" plate steel!!! The new push block will be 1 1/2" steel, and a LOT smaller!!!


Again, I will say this:

Unless you get most, if not all, of the components for free, you have more time and money than you know what to do with, and are a mechanical genius. JUST GO BUY ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
IT'S NOT WORTH BUILDING ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I suspect any increase in pressure due to a wide plate is as has been mentioned: The stock twisting and binding.

'as good as a wedge with wings'? I suspect that is observation being twisted by wishful thinking.

I have seen bent push plates, yes. I have also seen one being bent and it was due to a crooked block. I suspect most of them are bent that way and weren't properly braced to begin with.

Mine is only 4"w x 6"tall (ram mounted) and I bent the h* out of it on locust by having to prop the block up and only use the top half of the pusplate to get just a partial bite of the wedge into the block.

Harry K
 
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My pusher is 12" w x 10" tall and has a 8" long slides to align it with the beam. It is made of 3/4" plate except for the cylinder mount and is braced top and bottom. I did weld some slices of angle on to the pusher face to keep chunks from sliding off when things are knotty or cut weird.

So far everything was worked well. We have split some pretty nasty locust lately and I am happy with the pusher design. No bending yet:)

Don
 

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