Pioneer chainsaws

[Stihl Crazy]

I would say that it is an IEL RA from the pics on Acres site. I don't know what I will do with it yet.

 

[gmax]

Geeeezzzz! That 3270 is super what a great job.how did you paint it?What type of tools did you use to get the job done?Looks to have a clear coat of some kind also,am I right?Nice work!
Lawrence

Hi Lawrence,

No special tools were used, just a compressor & spray gun, I stripped the 3270 back to bare metal using paint stripper.
Then primed it using vinyl etch primer, let it dry for 15 mins and spray it with
3 coats of two pack acrylic urethane enamel which is 4 to 1 "two pack" mix.

No clear coat was used, also I don't thin the two pack paint to spray it, because it shrinks a fair bit when dry, the thicker it is applied the higher the gloss level will be.

cheers gmax

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would say that it is an IEL RA from the pics on Acres site. I don't know what I will do with it yet.

You are correct,it is a RA the model made just before the 600. It is the last of the sand cast saws, all the ones that follow it were die cast. Good old saws just the same just a little heavier than the 600. Let me know if you have any questions or encounter problems getting it running.
Pioneerguy600

 

[WesternSaw]

Gmax Paint Job

Thanks for responding to my questions gmax
lawrence

 

[daverx1]

Help, I need a flywheel for an IEL model RA pioneer saw. Mine has a crack in it. Please help.

 

[WesternSaw]

Hello daverx1

Sorry I can't help you with that one .You might want to try ebay type in what your looking for or try some of the sellers that specialize in Pioneer parts,type in Pioneer chainsaw parts.I think Randy from hotwheels wharehouse is one.Also try Rottmans

 

[porky616]

i got me a nu 17 off fleabay today. think i gonna need a new shed to fit all these saws i keep buying

 

[gmax]

i got me a nu 17 off fleabay today. think i gonna need a new shed to fit all these saws i keep buying

I saw that one on ebay but I didn't bid, will it take much work to get it running?

 

[porky616]

i dont think so gmax its all complete has spark and compression so it shouldnt be too hard i hope.

 

[mcor]

Milling with IEL model RA?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/Myersv/SH31idQUf_I/AAAAAAAAA

This is my IEL model RA from 1957 and it is the last of the IEL models that were made using the sand cast method,all metal construction. The next models were the 600 series and they are die cast. Some say they are die cast RA`s but there were a lot of improvements made to the 600 although they look similar. This saw is an excellent runner and will start and run A1 ,I cut with it at least once a month.
Pioneerguy600[/QUOTE]

Do you think these saws could be used for milling? Could you get a ripping chain for this . I'm new to this stuff but it would seem to me that that's a lot of cc's for what you would pay for something like that. Maybe I'm missing something?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Do you think these saws could be used for milling? Could you get a ripping chain for this . I'm new to this stuff but it would seem to me that that's a lot of cc's for what you would pay for something like that. Maybe I'm missing something?

I don`t know of anyone that runs one of these vintage saws for milling, they are on the heavy side but have gobs of torque but are slow revving. Ripping chains would not be hard to find in 404 pitch which most of these saws were originally fitted with and clutch drums with 3/8"drive sprockets are available so 3/8 chain can be used on them also. When milling, sprocket or roller tip bars are preferred and the older saws came with solid nose bars so a replacement bar would also be of a benefit.
Pioneerguy600

 

[mcor]

I don`t know of anyone that runs one of these vintage saws for milling, they are on the heavy side but have gobs of torque but are slow revving. Ripping chains would not be hard to find in 404 pitch which most of these saws were originally fitted with and clutch drums with 3/8"drive sprockets are available so 3/8 chain can be used on them also. When milling, sprocket or roller tip bars are preferred and the older saws came with solid nose bars so a replacement bar would also be of a benefit.
Pioneerguy600

Thanks,

So do you think it would be a problem finding a 3/8 sprocket and say a 30 inch roller tip bar in that mount. Also do these older saw run ok horizontal for long periods of time. How is the tank vented?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks,

So do you think it would be a problem finding a 3/8 sprocket and say a 30 inch roller tip bar in that mount. Also do these older saw run ok horizontal for long periods of time. How is the tank vented?

Should not be a big problem to find a roller nose or sprocket tipped 30" bar in 3/8" pitch and the rim drive sprocket type clutch drums were made by Oregon and other makers for these saws so there should be some out there some wheres. The tank vents through the filler cap, remove the three screws in the original style cover and there is a spring and a hard rubber disc under there that allows air to enter the fuel tank. I could not say how these saws would run for hours at a time in the horizontal position as ripping with a chainsaw mill does not sound like any fun to me. The bandsaw mill works much better.
Pioneerguy600

 

[breymeyerfam]

anyone know where an air filter lid and filter for a 1074 could be found? mine come without one from an auction.

 

[propliner]

Hi guys, I just listed a few Pioneer odds-and-ends on fleabay if you are interested. Lots of small parts for the older saws.

 

[porky616]

got my 450 yesterday and am starting to work on it tried to start it but cant seem to prime it up. any tricks or secrets to starting these old girls jerry, its got plenty of spark :censored: it hurt me finger. will post some pics shortly thanks aaron

 

[Jacob J.]

Hi guys, I just listed a few Pioneer odds-and-ends on fleabay if you are interested. Lots of small parts for the older saws.

Could I get you to list a twin-screw supercharger and triple thin-ring piston for my IEL HM? :biggrinbounce2:

 

[WesternSaw]

Hello Breymeyerfarm

Hi Levi
This is how it is, as I was told when I got my first Pioneer. The Pioneer Gurus,and they know who they are,said those plastic air filter covers are real hard to come by,that is the ones that are not scratched,dented,chipped,cracked or just plain trashed.They are real hard to find in decent shape,but I have got a couple and I am sorry to tell you I'm not parting with them.BUUUUTT,I am working on something,and will let you know if it pans out.Sorry that's all I can say for now.I'm sure that is one reason fellas shy away from collecting the smaller P series saws,1073,1074,and any others that have the plastic air filter covers.The filters are available on ebay if they are the flat type ,the domed ones that have the black plastic or rubber molded right to the filter are hard to come by as well,I think.Maybe someone else can jump in one that one,as I could use a couple.
Lawrence

 

[WesternSaw]

A different topic

Pioneer Gurus
As you know I have now my first Pioneer with an anti vibration handle,a P28.I have an IPL for it ,but can not seem to figure out how those anti vibe bushings come off they seem to be pushed in with a metal pin on the end that goes into the saw case.Am I right on this?Or are they not made to be removed?I heard from propliner that they are hard to come buy,at least I think that's what he said.He also said something about that plastic piece that you press down to lock the throttle now here is my words a pain in tho a##.I had that whole handle setup with the trigger and the black plastic thing on the top of the handle,that you would clasp with your palm and the micky mouse springs apart and let me say it was a bi### to get back together,I am not sure if it is even back together the right way.It is unlike the P25 or P26 where you pull the trigger,push in the little metal pin on the side release the trigger and the throttle stays open.What is the sequence for the P28 and all it's plastic dodads.HELP GURUS.I also need to find a Owners manual for that model.I could go on about more but I'm winded now.OOPPS one more thing, the IPL shows a chain brake,there is no evidence mine had one.
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[pioneerguy600]

got my 450 yesterday and am starting to work on it tried to start it but cant seem to prime it up. any tricks or secrets to starting these old girls jerry, its got plenty of spark :censored: it hurt me finger. will post some pics shortly thanks aaron

They are a real challenge for sure, you can see all the hoses used to plumb these old saws with their primer pump in the top rear handle. The pump innards are usually just a gob of slimey rubber when they have been left sitting for years at a time. The primer pump has to be rebuilt or replaced and all the hoses checked for leaks/cracks/swelling etc. To get the saw to start just spray some mix in the carb throat or the spark plug hole and if it has compression and spark it will fire up and run a couple seconds.Before I ever run any vintage saw that I acquire for the first time the muffler gets pulled and decarboned along with the exhaust ports also as the old carbon in there can break off and destroy a perfectly good cylinder/piston and rings in a few seconds of running. Heck I never start a vintage saw without totally dismantling it and give it a once over for cleanliness,gaskets, seals ,gas lines,filters fuel and air, points set up, wires for spark and shutoff switch etc.
After all these things are old and have likely set unused for years so they will need most of the things I mentioned done sooner or later to make them run right so I do all that stuff before starting as the parts to repair them are scarce and costly so don`t do any more damage than necessary to them just to get them started up quickly.
All the vintage saws that I own will run as well as if they were new and could easily cut wood for long periods of time due to the fact that each and every one has been meticulously stripped,cleaned and rebuilt and always clean the gas tank and kit the carb. So no real secrets just good mechanical practice. IMHO
Pioneerguy600