PP330 broke, get an ms290?

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It should tell you on one of the stickers affixed to the saw it's about 1.5" X 2". On mine it was affixed right above the pull start handle. it gave
year:2007
Mil/ xxx : model# then last digiit specifieing type which in my case was a 2
serial #

View attachment 263200
 
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There you have it. That was better than the small engine class down at Vo Tech.

Most of that fuel line you can get on ebay. Due yourself a favor though and buy more than you need. It looks like you use that saw a good bit so in 2 years you'll be needing more. For the impulse line, try some windsheild washer line. I grabbed about 5 feet of it from the scrap yard. It was FREE. My old Craftsmans all leak some where the new line goes into the tank. Differant outside diameter for the new style fuel line. I've seen people fuss with drilling out the tank and adding a sleeve or a nipple. I just live with it leaking a little. Most guys spill way more gas overfilling the tank than will ever leak through that opening.

I find that washer or vacuum line will not stand up to fuel at all. The best thing I have found is fuel line for a Stihl *cough* FS90 weedeater. It comes in a 1 meter length and it is very good for this application and about $3.

For impulse line, I like to use automotive high temperature vacuum line (emissions equipment line). Get it at Napa or other good automotive parts houses. Tygon type fuel line and washer line won't hold up to the heat. Might be able to still get the OEM impulse line from a Husky or Poulan parts source using the part number from the IPL.
 
263200d1353390077-dsc00332-jpg
It should tell you on one of the stickers affixed to the saw it's about 1.5" X 2". On mine it was affixed right above the pull start handle. it gave
year:2007
Mil/ xxx : model# then last digiit specifieing type which in my case was a 2
serial #

I just picked up one of these saws. Looks to have the same fuel tank vent issue. For future reference when ordering parts, I'd like to determine whether I have a Type-1 or Type-2 saw. Unfortunately, the decal is missing from the saw. Are there any identifying characteristics on these saws that I can look for to determine which type I have? It doesn't matter for the parts I need now............but for the future it might...
 
:rock:

Many thanks to those who made useful posts (take a wild guess as to which two ASers are excluded :taped:) in this very educational thread; to my surprise I was able posi-rep quite a few folks.

:rock:
 
:rock:

Many thanks to those who made useful posts (take a wild guess as to which two ASers are excluded :taped:) in this very educational thread; to my surprise I was able posi-rep quite a few folks.

:rock:

How come everytime you post I have to read it 3-4 times?

Some weird reason my eyes keep pulling to the left......:laugh::laugh:
 
To the OP

Your dealer is not alone when it comes to telling people they have worthless used saws with a minor defect. My local dealer told a guy his 335 poulan pro was junk because the front av buffer had ripped. The saw was near mint and I was Selfishly hoping he would buy a new stihl so I could get the 335. Another local dealer just sold me 5 poulan saws, 3 poulan pros and 2 cheapies that all needed minor $ to fix and he told me all of them were blown up. I now have 4 very nice runners and a parts pp295 for 40 bucks.

As you stated in your earlier post, you're a guy who hangs on to things. Many here on AS are, me included. Others don't want to or just don't have time to do simple repairs like your saw needed. Stick around and you too can become your local "worthless" chainsaw repair hero. :)
 
How come everytime you post I have to read it 3-4 times?

Some weird reason my eyes keep pulling to the left......:laugh::laugh:

My avatar is the only reason most folks pay any attention to my posts ;) :laugh:.

I used to have a link in my signature to a most interesting photo of Ines Sainz, but I deleted the link after I received a Visitor Message saying that the linked website was trying to load unwanted software on someones computer.

Oldboyscout, please keep us updated on your PP330.
 
Well after a delay for parts backorder and the holidays, I got the saw partway back together. However I realized I still have an oil pump leak. It appears to be blowing alot of oil around the plastic cover on the pump casting. My problem now is I can't get the clutch off to get to the pump. I did the rope in the cylinder and locked a set of small nose vise grips on the notches and tried to twist with tsome pump pliers, but it seems to be on there solid. I sprayed some penetrating oil but it didn't help. how much should I force it?

(good thing I have another saw)
 
Well after a delay for parts backorder and the holidays, I got the saw partway back together. However I realized I still have an oil pump leak. It appears to be blowing alot of oil around the plastic cover on the pump casting. My problem now is I can't get the clutch off to get to the pump. I did the rope in the cylinder and locked a set of small nose vise grips on the notches and tried to twist with tsome pump pliers, but it seems to be on there solid. I sprayed some penetrating oil but it didn't help. how much should I force it?

(good thing I have another saw)

Remember that a clutch has left handed or backwards threads. If you have a bar and chain on the saw and have not cut any wood it will come out around the cover.
 
Well after a delay for parts backorder and the holidays, I got the saw partway back together. However I realized I still have an oil pump leak. It appears to be blowing alot of oil around the plastic cover on the pump casting. My problem now is I can't get the clutch off to get to the pump. I did the rope in the cylinder and locked a set of small nose vise grips on the notches and tried to twist with tsome pump pliers, but it seems to be on there solid. I sprayed some penetrating oil but it didn't help. how much should I force it?

(good thing I have another saw)

you ARE turning it clockwise right? Just checking. Took mine off no problem with a hammer and a drift punch when I swapped the .325 rim to .375.
 
Just because there is oil there does NOT mean there is a leak. In most cases the oil that is being slung off the chain is what causes oil to be around that area. Unless you have excessive oil leakage I would not worry about it. Find something to clean the bar groove where your chain rides as well as the hole on the bar where the oil is pumped into the bar. A tiny flat head screw driver works well.
 
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I did double check to turn clockwise.
It's a lot of oil constantly, even while sitting on the bench. I can see it accumulate by the little square plastic cover. I assume it shouldn't come from there?
 
First I would worry about getting the saw back together and running. Then worry about the oil. Keep us updated on your progress and DON'T give up.
 

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