Premature bar wear mystery on new MS 661 C-M

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Wish you'd stop being so good to me captain
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That's not the problem, sure the chain may free a little in the grove but essential, it is the water in the tip sprocket that is frozen çock stiff
If he put a bar and chain on that was sitting in the shop (No moisture), tensioned it the same, then left it out in a dramatic temp drop, the same thing would happen. The chain would be extremely tight and put unnecessary stress on the crank and bearings.

Why you ask? Because metal contracts when it gets colder. Just like the laws of physics say, just like Stihl engineers say, and just like everyone that isn’t a fraud says.

You feelin me yet?
 
Westboastfaller

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If he put a bar and chain on that was sitting in the shop (No moisture), tensioned it the same, then left it out in a dramatic temp drop, the same thing would happen. The chain would be extremely tight and put unnecessary stress on the crank and bearings.

Why you ask? Because metal retracts when it gets colder. Just like the laws of physics say, just like Stihl engineers say, and just like everyone that isn’t a fraud says.

You feelin me yet?
Your f*en high dude!
The nose sprocket was frozen. You can pluck the chain out at 40 below to help but just ram the tip on a log. OR.. you dry the tip & chain off by boring in a tree at night.
That is all we are talking about. It's a non issue so pull up your skirt
 
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Your f*en high dude!
The nose sprocket was frozen. You can pluck the chain out at 40 below to help but just ram the tip on a log. OR.. you dry the tip & chain off by boring in a tree at night.
That is all we are talking about. It's a non issue so pull up your skirt
Same thing with a bar without a roller tip?

What if he just piss revved the saw and never cut?

Chain wouldn’t get tighter?

You’re a clown.
 
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How is a solid bar getting to freeze a tip troll?
LEST WE FORGET.
I am a master of that life and you are nothing but a fùcken troll
No your roll, troll.
Exactly, it’s got nothing to do with the tip freezing and everything to do with the chain contracting due to the cooling temps.
 
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What would you know?
You the the one with the 6000 hours of cutting at -25 - 43 ?
Didn't think so, so shut your çock sucker already .
I know that chains get tighter when they’re cold and looser when they’re hot. But that’s chainsaw 101 ********, obviously above your skill level.
 
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Yes there is levels to this game and you ain't..and ..nor,, will you ever been in my sigh line .
I can't say it anymore cleanly...

Your a Troll
But yet you’ve offered the OP zero advice except that his chain will get tighter as it heats up and I’m the troll? Lmao!

Wut substances we abusing tonight?
 
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Whole bunch of misunderstanding going on here. The critical thing to take away is, if your chain gets too loose while cutting and you stop just to tighten it up while it is still hot, it will then be too tight when it cools down again. Probably not too many people experience this as most wouldn't just stop to adjust a chain but would wait until it was time to refuel, in which case the chain would cool down during refuel and receive a more "normal" adjustment.
 
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Whole bunch of misunderstanding going on here. The critical thing to take away is, if your chain gets too loose while cutting and you stop just to tighten it up while it is still hot, it will then be too tight when it cools down again. Probably not too many people experience this as most wouldn't just stop to adjust a chain but would wait until it was time to refuel, in which case the chain would cool down during refuel and receive a more "normal" adjustment.
If you tighten your chain from the starting point of the day because the chain is now loose when you refuel, and the chain hasn’t stretched, it will be too tight after everything cools back down to the original starting point. This full cool down ain’t going to happen during a refuel. This is what is trying to be communicated here. No different than what any owners manual says.

It puts unnecessary stress on the crank and bearings which may sit like that for days, weeks or months depending on use.
 
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Well if you're worried about the tip freezing
then you bore through a tree or stump to dry out the tip at night and leave it there ..OR you bang and push it againts a log in the morning , multiply times and pin the trigger to break the tip free. The chain is not the issue here.

Unprofessional workmanship!
Under dispute!
"Rookieville"
Tip didn’t freeze, chain shrunk and tightened.
 
Fatherwheels

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Whole bunch of misunderstanding going on here. The critical thing to take away is, if your chain gets too loose while cutting and you stop just to tighten it up while it is still hot, it will then be too tight when it cools down again. Probably not too many people experience this as most wouldn't just stop to adjust a chain but would wait until it was time to refuel, in which case the chain would cool down during refuel and receive a more "normal" adjustment.
Exactly, temperature and time, understand it and you work with it,
dismiss it and you will live to fight it, and loose.
 
Fatherwheels

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If you tighten your chain from the starting point of the day because the chain is now loose when you refuel, and the chain hasn’t stretched, it will be too tight after everything cools back down to the original starting point. This full cool down ain’t going to happen during a refuel. This is what is trying to be communicated here. No different than what any owners manual says.

It puts unnecessary stress on the crank and bearings which may sit like that for days, weeks or months depending on use.
Yes, and when newbies tighten the chain and it gets very hot and stretched to the point it’s hanging loose
and they see this, and tighten it some more they end up destroying the bar in a very short time, like in the OP’s time frame, and a poor oiler and plenty of cc’s will speed the process up even more.
 
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If he put a bar and chain on that was sitting in the shop (No moisture), tensioned it the same, then left it out in a dramatic temp drop, the same thing would happen. The chain would be extremely tight and put unnecessary stress on the crank and bearings.

Why you ask? Because metal retracts when it gets colder. Just like the laws of physics say, just like Stihl engineers say, and just like everyone that isn’t a fraud says.

You feelin me yet?
Absolutely right.
 
Fatherwheels

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Did the OP figure out why his bar groove is so worn yet, be bad news if Stihl bar quality
or QC is that bad, I am almost ready to get me an MS261, now this bar wear issue got me thinking,
so I looked at a 251 beside me, that bar lost its paint ridiculously quick, I know the owner, not an abuser
in any shape or form, may be the new Husqvarna bars are tougher, me has research to do.
 
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