Protective shirt/jacket and gloves?

[Sid Post]

Yes, I did a search .... I found a lot of old and outdated threads ...

I have a good pair of chaps and the Husky helmet system. I to want to add some upper body protection. From my online searches, it appears that there are very few choices and it would be a totally blind purchase.

• What do you wear?
• What do you like or dislike about it?
• What would you do differently today?
• What is available in the USA?

The same thing goes for gloves. What is good and what is bad out there? My Stihl MS362 and MS461 don't vibrate too bad but, some isolation would be good too if I don't loose the "feel" of the saw. Mainly, I want something warm and water resistant AND something that will save my fingers or hand if the saw gets away from me on a really bad day (I do safe cuts but, it only takes one bad one to ruin your day or life).

Nothing too hot please. In freezing temperatures, gloves, helmet/hearing protection and, chaps keep me warm to the point of a light sweat when I'm working hard - too hot and I will sweat and then freeze

TIA,
Sid

 

[Ferguson system]

Oregon, Husky, Jonsered, Stihl and Dolmar produces gloves with chainsaw protection. It is common that only the left glove in a pair has chainsaw protection (class 0). Oregon makes a pair with chainsaw protection for both hands. You can get jackets with protection from Pfanner, Husky and Jred. Pfanner also has forearm protectors. The jackets are pretty comfy, but they do get warm.

 

[CTYank]

Statistically, you've got to to something pretty stupid to get hit on the upper torso. For protection there the best equipment is the "little gray cells" between your ears. Okay, they're your best protection in all respects, if you use them well and consistently.

Best gloves I've found: Atlas latex-coated knit gloves, with the "Thermal" variety for all but the depths of winter around here in the CT panhandle. Buy them by the dozen, they cost so little Then once you sweat up a pair, you change to a second pair.

Those gloves are near-bulletproof, and really grippy. Get 'em dirty, and toss them in the wash. Don't do like Greg Norman- always use a two-hand grip on a saw. If you get hurt doing otherwise, you want sympathy? Not likely. Shame on you.

Not trying to be cutesy, but even a suit of armor will have its weaknesses, so it's crazy to rely heavily on it. There are things you can do, in your saw operation procedures, that will serve you far better. PPE is good, too, for belt & suspender approach. (I use both, FWIW.)

 

[Rockjock]

Talking with he local Stihl dealer he commented that we, as in Canada, will be getting the clothing that Europe has had for a while quite soon. So the US folk will have them around the same time. I have a pair of gloves from stihl that has the padding in both hands so my saws that do not have anti-vibe do not vibrate too bad.

 

[Philbert]

Upper body chainsaw protection seems to be more of a European thing. You don't see it very often here in the US, which is why the earlier post mentioned European manufacturers. You might be able to find some stuff here from their US distributors or some of the site sponsors.

As for gloves, there are many different types for different purposes - you are unlikely to find one type that does everything. Most guys will wear some type of work gloves to protect their hands from cold temperatures, from accidental contact with a hot muffler, or for handling the chain. Note that there is always a tradeoff between protection (thicker) and dexterity (thinner). Some guys will choose gloves more for how they hold up for periodic wood handling than for saw specific performance.

Chainsaw protective gloves typically have the protective layers (like chaps) on the back of the Left glove only. I guess that is where most cuts to the hands statistically happen? Other styles of cut-resistant gloves designed for knives, sharp edges on metal, glass, etc., do not apply to a running saw chain. Search Google for 'ANSI cut-resistant glove classifications' for more info on industrial style cut-resistant gloves.

Anti-vibration is a whole, 'nother issue. Any glove may dampen vibration slightly, but not all padded gloves are A/V. True A/V gloves will use some type of foam, gel, or air bubbles to dampen vibrations, and are tested as such. Some A/V gloves are so thick that they interfere with saw operation, or do not hold up for wood handling. I have used air bladder gloves by Impacto, which makes many styles, including some with leather palms that are flexible and durable enough for saw use, but without any cut protection. I have tried some gel-filled gloves by OK-1 that were OK. And I have tried several of the knit gloves with the foam added to the palm sides, which are inexpensive, and reduce vibration some, but do not hold up to wood handling.

More discussion here: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/anti-vibration-gloves.147510/

Philbert

 

[Sid Post]

Statistically, you've got to to something pretty stupid to get hit on the upper torso. For protection there the best equipment is the "little gray cells" between your ears.

I generally agree with you however, I am not perfect so the statistics are bound to catch up to me one day if I use the saws enough. We all have a bad day for whatever reason and do something in retrospect that seems really DUMB after the fact. Hopefully, I will never test my PPE.

I'm still amazed by people that asked all the time in the Summer in Tucson, Az how I could wear motorcycle boots, pants, a full motorcycle jacket, racing gloves and, a full face helmet in the heat. I asked them how bad their road rash hurt last time they went down ... For me, small bugs and rocks kicked up by cagers was enough to convince me hard armor on my torso and face was a good idea, neck still got nicked occasionally though.

 

[Philbert]

. . . neck still got nicked occasionally though.

Note that the chainsaw protective gear does not provide complete coverage either. This Husqvarna jacket only covers limited areas:


Neck is still exposed.




Philbert

 

[Sid Post]

Chainsaw protective gloves typically have the protective layers (like chaps) on the back of the Left glove only. I guess that is where most cuts to the hands statistically happen? Other styles of cut-resistant gloves designed for knives, sharp edges on metal, glass, etc., do not apply to a running saw chain. Search Google for 'ANSI cut-resistant glove classifications' for more info on industrial style cut-resistant gloves.

Yes, I am aware of the gloves for knives, scissors, etc. and the specialized gloves used in prisons. I used to sell custom knives and it is amazing what a properly made knife will do in average hands to otherwise seemingly impenetrable materials. Heck, I even sliced a piece of my fingertip off (superficial) while dicing onions with a handmade Japanese knife and wondered why the diced onions were turning red I never felt a thing. Anyway, I digress ....

I have seen too many loggers with fingers missing to take the lack of proper gloves for granted. Hopefully, the grey matter will ensure they stay attached until I die. My grandfather lost one of his fingertips to a square hay baler ...

Anti-vibration is a whole, 'nother issue. Any glove may dampen vibration slightly, but not all padded gloves are A/V. True A/V gloves will use some type of foam, gel, or air bubbles to dampen vibrations, and are tested as such. Some A/V gloves are so thick that they interfere with saw operation, or do not hold up for wood handling. I have used air bladder gloves by Impacto, which makes many styles, including some with leather palms that are flexible and durable enough for saw use, but without any cut protection. I have tried some gel-filled gloves by OK-1 that were OK. And I have tried several of the knit gloves with the foam added to the palm sides, which are inexpensive, and reduce vibration some, but do not hold up to wood handling.

Philbert

Thanks! I have used Anti-vibe gloves with bicycles and motorcycles but, they were way too fragile to use on a farm, much less around chainsaws. My new Stihls are pretty smooth, definitely the smoothest I have ever been around. If I can keep dexterity and the "feel", more AV is always better as the day wears on.

 

[Sid Post]

Neck is still exposed.


Philbert

Wasn't that the tree trimming guy one-handing a saw way out on a limb?

 

[Philbert]

I like the Impacto air bladder gloves - probably $40 to $60 a pair with the right leather palms, etc., for chainsaw use.

Philbert

 

[Sid Post]

Note that the chainsaw protective gear does not provide complete coverage either. This Husqvarna jacket only covers limited areas:
View attachment 392697

Philbert

That is the one I was looking at CONUS. Wish I could see one in person. Elvex offers a vest I have been reading about as well.

 

[Rockjock]

Well you could wear protective ugg boots while running a dull chain like this ex peeler does?

 

[2dogs]

I have a SwedePro/Stihl cut resistant shirt. The sleeves and area above the arm pits have a safety material sewn in but the body of the shirt is mesh. It is bright orange which I like since I work around heavy equipment quite often. The only thing about the shirt I do not like is that the fabric is very soft and loosely woven so is attracts every sticker or foxtail on the jobsite and doesn't let them go.

For gloves I wear cotton rigging gloves or nylon fallers' gloves or rarely wildland firefighting gloves. No protection, first two do help a little with vibes. Mostly though I go bare handed.

 

[CTYank]

I generally agree with you however, I am not perfect so the statistics are bound to catch up to me one day if I use the saws enough. We all have a bad day for whatever reason and do something in retrospect that seems really DUMB after the fact. Hopefully, I will never test my PPE.

I'm still amazed by people that asked all the time in the Summer in Tucson, Az how I could wear motorcycle boots, pants, a full motorcycle jacket, racing gloves and, a full face helmet in the heat. I asked them how bad their road rash hurt last time they went down ... For me, small bugs and rocks kicked up by cagers was enough to convince me hard armor on my torso and face was a good idea, neck still got nicked occasionally though.

Actually, what I'm talking about is not a difficult target to hit. Mainly a small set of operating principles, like:
In no particular order here,
1. Inspect saw frequently for loose bits, brake operation, chain tension.
2. If fatigue is setting in, wrap it up and go hoist a pint.
3. Proper grip always- 2 hands, opposed thumb on left hand, left elbow locked with arm straight. Kickbacks will occur.
4. Keep body parts out of the plane of the chain. Lettering on left side of bar should be visible. Kickbacks will occur.
5. Stay clear of the rear of the saw. DAMHIKT. Kickbacks can send the saw straight back and kick like a mule. Kickbacks will occur.
6. For felling, stand at 45 deg from hinge. Mind the chair.
7. Keep feet spread for balance. Crap will happen.
8. Keep wedges handy. Use them.
9. Best stay used to using good combo helmet- use the muffs & screen (with safety glasses behind it.)

When my younger son wanted to learn how to use my wee 30 cc Echo at a wood-cutting party, at age 12, he got the basic safety lecture on the above in the road in. Party leader casually checked him out as to safe operation: "He's okay." Motivation helps.

You have to be #1 participant in your preservation, cut no corners, make no exceptions. Much better than bleeding & stitches.

PPE is a very good backup. When I'm required to use chaps ferinstance, I put on the full-wraps, even in Aug., but certainly don't feel invincible. It's funny how many folks assume thay you can place an order for whatever you need.

 

[MtnMike]

Finally, a topic I can actually contribute to...

I was on a similar search not too long ago and ended up with the ArborTech AT950 glove. You can get them in the US from Baily's. They have protection similar to your chaps on the back of both hands, a velcro wrist closure and decent (fake?) leather palms that provide decent anti-vibe and grip.

They're not cheap, so as soon as the saw stops and the cleanup/stacking begins, these come off in favor of garden-variety leather gloves.

Baily's only stocks Large and Extra-large, so if you don't have big burly mitts you may have to find a European vendor who has Mediums.

Anyway, they seem to be decent gloves--if you can tolerate the crappy purple color!

 

[wyk]

I don't wear upper body protection myself. And I don't know many in Europe that do aside from protective gloves or a helmet.

As far as anti-vibes go, I find that any gloves with any sort of padding, whether leather or gel or whatever, make a large difference on how I feel at the end of an entire day using a saw professionally. Unless you are running something pre-AV, even a thick leathe gloves makes a big difference, with little to no loss of dexterity. Having said that, I do find climbing/climbers gloves to have great protection, AV, and dexterity - but the prices are very high on some of them.

https://honeybros.com/Item/Petzl_Cordex_Plus_Belay_Glove_Tan

 

[Hinerman]

This ought to keep you safe:

 

[Sid Post]

This ought to keep you safe:

View attachment 392898

If I had that technology, I wouldn't need a chainsaw

 

[Ferguson system]

But you'd still want one. Ironman with dual tophandle saws on the back.

 

[Sid Post]

Actually, what I'm talking about is not a difficult target to hit. Mainly a small set of operating principles, like:
In no particular order here,
1. Inspect saw frequently for loose bits, brake operation, chain tension.
2. If fatigue is setting in, wrap it up and go hoist a pint.
3. Proper grip always- 2 hands, opposed thumb on left hand, left elbow locked with arm straight. Kickbacks will occur.
4. Keep body parts out of the plane of the chain. Lettering on left side of bar should be visible. Kickbacks will occur.
5. Stay clear of the rear of the saw. DAMHIKT. Kickbacks can send the saw straight back and kick like a mule. Kickbacks will occur.
6. For felling, stand at 45 deg from hinge. Mind the chair.
7. Keep feet spread for balance. Crap will happen.
8. Keep wedges handy. Use them.
9. Best stay used to using good combo helmet- use the muffs & screen (with safety glasses behind it.)

Thanks! That should be a sticky and required reading for anyone buying a chainsaw IMHO

Felling seems to be a good "Darwin test" for newbies too