Protective shirt/jacket and gloves?

[CTYank]

Finally, a topic I can actually contribute to...

I was on a similar search not too long ago and ended up with the ArborTech AT950 glove. You can get them in the US from Baily's. They have protection similar to your chaps on the back of both hands, a velcro wrist closure and decent (fake?) leather palms that provide decent anti-vibe and grip.

They're not cheap, so as soon as the saw stops and the cleanup/stacking begins, these come off in favor of garden-variety leather gloves.

Baily's only stocks Large and Extra-large, so if you don't have big burly mitts you may have to find a European vendor who has Mediums.

Anyway, they seem to be decent gloves--if you can tolerate the crappy purple color!

Couple points I'd make about gloves:
1. If they have to be chainsaw-resistant, you're doing something horribly wrong, or fending off some Ninja-chainsaw warrior.
Better work on the two-hand grip, period, unless you're a golfer and want to visit the ER nurses.
2. If you need better A/V, seriously consider trading for Husqy, Dolmar, or PoulanPro, a saw with really good A/V. Hear that, Stihl?
Up to a point you might get by with foam handlebar tape on the front handle. (Works great on my antique Echo.)
3. Atlas gloves with latex palm grip so well with so little force applied by you, that they minimize effect of vibes. No way will leather grip like that. Leather doesn't fare well after a session in a washing machine, either.
4. As many others have remarked here, the latex Atlas gloves wear way better than leather for firewooding. Lots of folks have experienced leather gloves with ventilated fingers. Not the hot setup in mid-winter. Or accidental bird-flips.

 

[Philbert]

2. If you need better A/V, seriously consider trading for Husqy, Dolmar, or PoulanPro, a saw with really good A/V. Hear that, Stihl?

A lot of vibration related disorders are progressive. Guys with prior, or other exposures (jack hammers, chipping hammers, etc.) may be much more sensitive to later exposures, and notice symptoms (numbness, blanching, etc.) much earlier than others using the same tools. There can also be personal factors as well. Using saws and chains with good vibration dampening/isolation is a good step; gloves that attenuate some of the remaining vibration is another good control, especially, when used together.

Philbert

FMI: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/83-110/

 

[MtnMike]

1. If they have to be chainsaw-resistant, you're doing something horribly wrong, or fending off some Ninja-chainsaw warrior.
Better work on the two-hand grip, period, unless you're a golfer and want to visit the ER nurses.

You mean this guy?

(Love the Greg Norman reference.) Totally agree, but as you said earlier, "PPE is a very good backup."

Couple points I'd make about gloves:
3. Atlas gloves with latex palm grip so well with so little force applied by you, that they minimize effect of vibes. No way will leather grip like that. Leather doesn't fare well after a session in a washing machine, either.
4. As many others have remarked here, the latex Atlas gloves wear way better than leather for firewooding. Lots of folks have experienced leather gloves with ventilated fingers. Not the hot setup in mid-winter. Or accidental bird-flips.

I have a pair of gloves similar to the Atlas (Wells-Lamont). I've not used them for firewooding work...maybe I'll give 'em a try. The reasoning seems sound as these things are crazy grippy.

All good advice, CTYank, thanks for the observations and reminders that proper technique and behavior is your best first line of defense.

 

[CTYank]

A lot of vibration related disorders are progressive. Guys with prior, or other exposures (jack hammers, chipping hammers, etc.) may be much more sensitive to later exposures, and notice symptoms (numbness, blanching, etc.) much earlier than others using the same tools. There can also be personal factors as well. Using saws and chains with good vibration dampening/isolation is a good step; gloves that attenuate some of the remaining vibration is another good control, especially, when used together.

Philbert

FMI: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/83-110/

D'ja notice where I pointed out how some gloves let you grip saw securely without "death grip"? "Twas item 3.
Many other benefits besides vibration attenuation to that sort of glove. Where you are, you likely need "Ninja Ice" gloves for the insulation besides.

 

[CTYank]

You mean this guy?

(Love the Greg Norman reference.) Totally agree, but as you said earlier, "PPE is a very good backup."



I have a pair of gloves similar to the Atlas (Wells-Lamont). I've not used them for firewooding work...maybe I'll give 'em a try. The reasoning seems sound as these things are crazy grippy.

All good advice, CTYank, thanks for the observations and reminders that proper technique and behavior is your best first line of defense.

You'll have to explain the graphic.

The philosophy involved is certainly not original to me. I served on a destroyer, where none of the skin is thicker than 1/4". Your "protection" is your wits in using the performance capabilities of the ship. This is the polar opposite of battleships or even carriers (so compartmented they might as well be wrapped in armor plate.) You work with what you've got, mainly your intelligence.

No inducement there to hide in a bunker. Hard to get anything done there.

 

[Philbert]

D'ja notice where I pointed out how some gloves let you grip saw securely without "death grip"? "Twas item 3.

3. Atlas gloves with latex palm grip so well with so little force applied by you, that they minimize effect of vibes..

Gripping the handles loosely will reduce transmission of vibration, but that is not the same as attenuating it.

In an earlier post I also noted that there can be trade-offs. Some A/V gloves I have tried were so stiff that I had trouble wrapping my hands around the handles, or operating the trigger, choke, etc. The better ones have segmented pads, or air bubbles, that let you bend and use your fingers. They can also have coated palms if you like that feature.

One manufacturer that I like is 'Impacto', that offers A/V gloves in a lot of different styles. I use ones with air bladders, full fingers, and leather palms, but they have other styles. I have also tried some 'OK-1', full-fingered gloves with segmented, gel padding, and a number of knit gloves with segmented foam on the palms. I mention these gloves in order of A/V effectiveness and cost (high to low). None of them will hold up to much firewood handling.

I just picked up some thick, knit gloves with extra thick rubber palms (sold as 'winter work gloves') at a local home center which I am interested to try for both saw and wood use.

Philbert

 

[Sid Post]

The philosophy involved is certainly not original to me. I served on a destroyer, where none of the skin is thicker than 1/4". Your "protection" is your wits in using the performance capabilities of the ship. This is the polar opposite of battleships or even carriers (so compartmented they might as well be wrapped in armor plate.) You work with what you've got, mainly your intelligence.

http://news.usni.org/2013/12/30/navy-six-months-repairs-drone-struck-ship-will-cost-30-million

No substitute for "situational awareness", whether at sea or in the trees

 

[MtnMike]

You mean this guy?

You'll have to explain the graphic.

That's the "Ninja-chainsaw warrior" you mentioned.