Ittybittyfitty
ArboristSite Operative
On a MS261 with version 3 mtronic, is it necessary to re-calibrate the saw or will it adjust on its own? This would be after performing a simple muff mod.
Resetting Mtronic necessary after a muff mod?
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The M-Tronic is suppose to self adjusting. Under what circumstances does it ever need to be re-calibrated?
I put my ms261c into a situation that it would not start. It did eventually correct itself. From this forum, the collective thought was that the engine was shut off to quickly after running at WOT. The 261 did smell gassy, so I agree that I probably did cause the problem. But the saw did correct itself, so I don't know under what circumstances a re-calibration is necessary, beyond initial factory calibration.
I put my ms261c into a situation that it would not start. It did eventually correct itself. From this forum, the collective thought was that the engine was shut off to quickly after running at WOT. The 261 did smell gassy, so I agree that I probably did cause the problem. But the saw did correct itself, so I don't know under what circumstances a re-calibration is necessary, beyond initial factory calibration.
Ittybittyfitty
ArboristSite Operative
I watched a Stihl published video that states that after cleaning or replacing the carb, replacing the solenoid, or even replacing the fuel filter warrants a system reset. I imagine a muff mod would qualify. Only reason I’m asking is because the saw is brand new and the reset calls for a 30 second full throttle piss rev which I’d rather not do. Or is it not that big of a deal?
The wide-open portion of the 30 second piss rev is only about 5 seconds long.
That being said, I still wouldn’t reset it. It’ll figure it out after your run it for a while
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Yeah, I'd wait til it was broken in. Two tanks of gas at least.
I would do the recalibrating at the dealer on the diagnostic system. The advantage is that it sets the limiting parameters new doing it like this.
Wrong:
Let the saw run at least 30-60sec on the start position. After that open the throttle fully and hold it at least 30sec. The engine speed rises during the calibration run until it reaches the maximum. After that it drops noticeably. After that let the engine go to idle and switch it of. Engine is calibrated.
Every saw goes on the dyno test after assembling in the factory. After a short warm up procedure, it goes full throttle and everything is checked (exhaust emissions, power output and so on) during the test run controlled by a computer and performed by a robot.
I was referring to the area in your graph where the saw is actually running at max RPM, since that is what the OP was worried about. 6,000 RPM isn’t going to hurt anything. It’s the area around 14 K that he was trying to stay away from. Even in the graph you posted, it looks to be about 5 seconds long
Yes the maximum is hold around 4-5 sec.
Shutting down without idling an M-tronic saw can make it flood when you start it up. Sometimes I forget. The "fix" is to hold the throttle open when starting it, making sure to do it safely of course.
sawfan123
ArboristSite Member
Nothing bad will ever happen to the saw because it's not calibrated.
It will self adjust if run under a steady load for a few minutes.
If you're limbing, I'd do a reset. It will "Optimize" the running. (They love that word)
You wont notice a difference in running at all. It will follow the map stored in the
control unit till you or it recalibrates.
It will self adjust if run under a steady load for a few minutes.
If you're limbing, I'd do a reset. It will "Optimize" the running. (They love that word)
You wont notice a difference in running at all. It will follow the map stored in the
control unit till you or it recalibrates.
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That makes good sense to me. I was an electrical engineer, mostly software, til I retired. We put things in for our own development purposes. After it is done or they tell us to stop, we'd leave our tools inside. Partly cause you don't mess with what works. In this case marketing would see the re-cal "feature" a selling point for the tweakers and others.
You can add a little 30wt oil to your pre mix. It'll stay lubed that way. Maybe 1 tsp per gallon. Pre mix oil burns, but 30 wt does not burn at normal 2 stroke temps. You want to see just a little oil in the muffler.
My un official opinion.
Nate
My un official opinion.
Nate
? You'll know when its used again...or doesn't start. All the Yes, No, and Maybe's aren't going to keep that re-coil rope from its next good yank........If someone says Yes, do it. If someone says No, be sure to scold them if they are wrong......and the Maybe's? You are already there...Good Luck!!
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