I cleaned the piston. But neglected the cylinder. Ill take it apart and clean it up tomorrow.
Should a 372xp be able to bog and wet 12-20 inch Pine?
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Used to small screwdrivers and pushed in the limiter caps and readjusted the carburetor to where it was more adjustable on the rich side from a base setting standpoint but now that I know how to manipulate the carburetor it shouldn't be too hard
Scrub the crap out of it until all the crosshatch becomes visible. You should be able to feel it. There should be no smooth spots. All kinda rough feeling.
Idk, like feeling a cast iron frying pan as opposed to a Teflon one. Maybe.
At any rate you gotta re-expose the crosshatch. Right to the bottom of the tiny valleys.
Idk, like feeling a cast iron frying pan as opposed to a Teflon one. Maybe.
At any rate you gotta re-expose the crosshatch. Right to the bottom of the tiny valleys.
Cool on the carburetor adjusting!
clean the edge of the rings too. Were the ringlands clean?
And those black edged rings still have me going. Wth?
I hate taking rings off and on... unless I’m replacing them.
And those black edged rings still have me going. Wth?
I hate taking rings off and on... unless I’m replacing them.
I like to oil things up on reassembly, although there is a valid argument for running dry rings on break-in. I’ve never done that though, so idk.
I gotta start putting stuff all in one post. Sheesh.
I gotta start putting stuff all in one post. Sheesh.
The Rings were nice and shiny when I took everything apart I'm actually cleaning it up right now but it is smooth as hell it is not responding to anything I can see all the cross hatching but it feels very smooth unlike the feeling of a freshly machined cylinder
Canyon Angler
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Would Scotchbrite de-glaze the cylinder walls? I know it'll scratch glass, and it's great for cleaning the barnacles off of TIG filler...
it cleaned up the metal smeared on my 038 jug. That one was straight gassed i think.
I tried some 1200 grit no results.
Not that i was able to see at least. So its back together again. Ill mess with it later tonight. The rings are well with in spec so theres not much else here. No torn boot or odd things noted.
If your richening that you need to go the other way, it sounded better before, it sounds pig rich later in the vid. it needs leaning. I would never put a saw together with .016 - .018 ring gap, new rings will give .008 - .011 gap., get yee some cabers from hl supply, there only $15.
I thought it was pretty funny too because the service manual says up to 1 m m
Yeah I'm going to order some tonight or the next couple of days
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do the rings and get some sealant and delete the base gasket while at it, retune in the cut and let us know. Looks to me that it was broken in way to rich and glazed up.
Yep probably so. I didnt think it could happen with a new saw. But its the only logical explanation.
1200 grit? You need to get some 300-400 grit in there. Try a green scotchbrite pad.
Do not use Caber F-Cast rings. They are much stiffer and harder to break in. You'll also see more power loss due to excess ring pressure/friction. If you use Caber rings make sure they are the original, non-FCast version. Honestly, I'd just use the original rings.
BTW, your tune sounds fine in the last video you posted. It's plenty rich. I can hear it 4-stroking at the beginning of the cut.
Do not use Caber F-Cast rings. They are much stiffer and harder to break in. You'll also see more power loss due to excess ring pressure/friction. If you use Caber rings make sure they are the original, non-FCast version. Honestly, I'd just use the original rings.
BTW, your tune sounds fine in the last video you posted. It's plenty rich. I can hear it 4-stroking at the beginning of the cut.
What did you say your elevation is there?
