Switching oils

[HarleyT]

My Grandpa's old Homelite said to use 30w at 16:1!!!!!!

By God, if it was good for him, it is good enough for me!!!!!

 

[HarleyT]

Despite another dreaded "oil thread" the questions are valid.

Don't worry too much about the brand of the oil provided it is TCW-III or equivalent. Echo power blend is fine, and it always makes sense to stick with a top quality company who's been at this game for while, Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, etc. Probably more important to keep PLENTY in the mix instead of not enough, and use the fuel up or dump it into your riding mower if it gets over a couple months old. Mixing ratios are always controversial topics, I use 40 to 1 and have now since the mid 1970's when I started cutting firewood.

Stabil doesn't do much to prevent the octane loss, or not enough impact on it and if you are using E-10 it will pull-in some water and end up forming "apple jelly" in the bottom of the fuel can or fuel tank. So best advice I can give is to make sure the fuel is "fresh" and if/when you aren't going to use your saw or other power equipment for many month.....get it running, dump the tank, and run the engine till it stalls out. If you are able pull the choke out as it dies out to suck all the fuel you can from the carb.

If you follow that deal you'll minimize to potential to plug things up which cause the demise of more of these small engines than any other reason......IMHO......Cliff

All kidding aside,
great post Cliff!!!

 

[Canyon Angler]

MMO!!!!!!!

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Despite another dreaded "oil thread" the questions are valid.

Don't worry too much about the brand of the oil provided it is TCW-III or equivalent. Echo power blend is fine, and it always makes sense to stick with a top quality company who's been at this game for while, Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, etc. Probably more important to keep PLENTY in the mix instead of not enough, and use the fuel up or dump it into your riding mower if it gets over a couple months old. Mixing ratios are always controversial topics, I use 40 to 1 and have now since the mid 1970's when I started cutting firewood.

Stabil doesn't do much to prevent the octane loss, or not enough impact on it and if you are using E-10 it will pull-in some water and end up forming "apple jelly" in the bottom of the fuel can or fuel tank. So best advice I can give is to make sure the fuel is "fresh" and if/when you aren't going to use your saw or other power equipment for many month.....get it running, dump the tank, and run the engine till it stalls out. If you are able pull the choke out as it dies out to suck all the fuel you can from the carb.

If you follow that deal you'll minimize to potential to plug things up which cause the demise of more of these small engines than any other reason......IMHO......Cliff

TCW-3?
Q. With so many different brands and types of 2-cycle oils on the market, how do I know which one is right for my engine?A. There are two basic categories of 2-cycle engines: liquid and air cooled. The liquid cooled category includes outboard boat motors and many personal watercraft. The air-cooled category includes lawn mowers, generators, pumps, chain saws, motorcycles, weed trimmers, ATV’s, snowmobiles and some personal watercraft. 2-cycle oils for water-cooled engines are labeled with a symbol from NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) and are given the designation TC-W3. Many 2-cycle air-cooled engine oils are marked with ISO GD, GC, GB; JASO FC, FB or FA; and/or with the API TC designation. “TC” means 2-cycle, “W” means water cooled and “3" designates the third and latest generation of outboard 2-cycle oils.

 

[Canyon Angler]

Don't worry too much about the brand of the oil provided it is TCW-III or equivalent.

I've seen outdoor power equipment manuals that said NOT to use TCW-3. The "W" means it's for water-cooled engines that run cooler than chainsaws. I believe if you use it in an air-cooled motor, you get too much ash/carbon.

 

[Colt Marlington]

A few weeks ago, CAD forced me to buy a nearly new SRM-225 for $30 outside a pawn shop, even though I had a perfectly good 58v trimmer already.
Or maybe it was STAD? Or TSAD?

Anyhoo...It starts and runs fine, but appears to have been blowing some oil/gas out the muffler..?

I figure it couldn't possibly be running too rich since everybody knows that Echo purposely sabotages all their equipment from the factory with locked-in too-lean mixtures. And I don't know that it could have too much oil, as that would cause an overly lean carb setting?,
Maybe just run at too low a throttle too often?
Or maybe I just need to do a mm? Don't know if these have a cat or not.
Or just say f-it and run the snot out of it.
The little 21cc motor does pull the .090 line better than the battery powered one. So I guess not a total loss...

 

[HarleyT]

Kind of what happens to me when I drink Strohs...........

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I've seen outdoor power equipment manuals that said NOT to use TCW-3. The "W" means it's for water-cooled engines that run cooler than chainsaws. I believe if you use it in an air-cooled motor, you get too much ash/carbon.

I agree with you.
I heard there are new 2-cycle oils for my air-cooled 2-cycle engines.A. Recently two new International designations for 2-cycle engines have been introduced. From Europe the ISO “Global” system, and from Japan the JASO system. - Global “GD” is internationally recognized as the highest quality air-cooled 2-cycle oil available. It is a synthetic or semi-synthetic, extreme temperature/anti-scuff/lubricity, low smoke, low ash oil. There is no comparable JASO or API product. - Global “GC” is equivalent to JASO “FC,” Japan’s highest quality 2-cycle oil. In Japan these oils may also be referred to as “Genuine” oils. These oils are high lubricity/detergent, low smoke, semi-synthetic, low ash oils. - Global “GB,” Europe’s lowest quality 2-cycle oil, is equivalent to JASO “FB.” It is generally accepted that North America’s API TC rated oils are equivalent to these oils. These oils do not require any synthetic to meet specifications. - JASO “FA” rated oils are used in Pacific Rim countries and are the lowest rated Japanese 2-cycle oils. They are medium to high ash mineral oils with limited lubricity or detergency. If no designation is shown on your oil container, read the label closely or question the seller to be sure the oil qualifies for the application you intend.

 

[HarleyT]

Now, it is developing into a true oil thread!!!

 

[Colt Marlington]

Kind of what happens to me when I drink Strohs...........

View attachment 719832

At least it's coming out the back end

 

[HarleyT]

At least it's coming out the back end

It "Depends"....

 

[hanniedog]

All that have responded to this oil thread will be sent to band camp for thirty days.

 

[lone wolf]

I've got at least one saw/blower/weedeater with three different gas/oil brand mixes combined in it right now.
Nothing bad has happened yet.

A friend when I was a kid used to run his dirt bike on ATF it held together,smoked pretty good I bet it was real clean inside!

 

[lone wolf]

It "Depends"....

View attachment 719839

What do old ladies taste like harley?

 

[TBS]

All that have responded to this oil thread will be sent to band camp for thirty days.

Ok

 

[jakethesnake]

A friend when I was a kid used to run his dirt bike on ATF it held together,smoked pretty good I bet it was real clean inside!

That surprises me that it held up.

 

[billyboy]

I have used "Tall Timber" brand in a 028WB for 15 yrs, 100% synthetic/stabilizer, all ratio. API TC, TISI; Global GC, GD Plus; JASO FD, FC; Pioggio SI. No mention of boat motors. I get it at my local Hardware Hank. Made in usa. And, I always add an ounce of Sea Foam to a gallon. They "seem" to run better with it.