Synthetic 2-stroke oils??

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I use Klotz Benol.
It's recomended for racing engines.
I no way run my saws like most of these loggin fellers do.
To most of of them it's day in, and day out.
I just cut here and there. Whenever I get the chance.
So my opinion should not be taken seriously.
Follow the advice of those well seasoned chainsaw gurus.
Klotz, to me just smells good.
It goes back to my childhood.

:smoking:
 
In a nutshell, its dirty.

Performance wise it's "dirty"? Oh. That's it, just "dirty"? If it's not too much trouble could you flesh that out a little? Dirty as in it's effect on the saw or it's effect on the environment? I'm really not looking for an arguement or to score any points off of you. It's just that you've always held yourself up as something of an authority on oil and I think you can do better than "dirty". The only thing I really know about oil is from the results I've had and from the results other people had. So...a little education here...if you please.
 
Performance wise it's "dirty"? Oh. That's it, just "dirty"? If it's not too much trouble could you flesh that out a little? Dirty as in it's effect on the saw or it's effect on the environment? I'm really not looking for an arguement or to score any points off of you. It's just that you've always held yourself up as something of an authority on oil and I think you can do better than "dirty". The only thing I really know about oil is from the results I've had and from the results other people had. So...a little education here...if you please.

Ditto for me:dizzy:
 
Performance wise it's "dirty"? Oh. That's it, just "dirty"? If it's not too much trouble could you flesh that out a little? Dirty as in it's effect on the saw or it's effect on the environment? I'm really not looking for an arguement or to score any points off of you. It's just that you've always held yourself up as something of an authority on oil and I think you can do better than "dirty". The only thing I really know about oil is from the results I've had and from the results other people had. So...a little education here...if you please.
__________________
First of all I have never claimed to a a authority on anything... With that out of the way..
The results I have had and the engines that I have seen ran on Orange bottle Stihl showed a high level of deposits as compared to other OEM oils like PB and Husky XP & XP silver.
The effect of deposits on a engine can be a range of things from pre ignition, and increased wear to decreased power. It depends on the model and the operating parameters. For instance a engine ran at 10,000 feet is going to be loaded harder than one ran at seas level and as such can have deposit issues that the sea level one will not have.
Dont get me wrong Stihl orange wont implode your saw its just that their are better choices out there that cost much less. In fact A top shelf synthetic costs significantly less that Orange bottle.
 
First of all I have never claimed to a a authority on anything... With that out of the way..
The results I have had and the engines that I have seen ran on Orange bottle Stihl showed a high level of deposits as compared to other OEM oils like PB and Husky XP & XP silver.
The effect of deposits on a engine can be a range of things from pre ignition, and increased wear to decreased power. It depends on the model and the operating parameters. For instance a engine ran at 10,000 feet is going to be loaded harder than one ran at seas level and as such can have deposit issues that the sea level one will not have.
Dont get me wrong Stihl orange wont implode your saw its just that their are better choices out there that cost much less. In fact A top shelf synthetic costs significantly less that Orange bottle.

Thanks for the reply...glad to hear my saw won't implode. :D
 
The effect of deposits on a engine can be a range of things from pre ignition, and increased wear to decreased power. It depends on the model and the operating parameters. For instance a engine ran at 10,000 feet is going to be loaded harder than one ran at seas level and as such can have deposit issues that the sea level one will not have.
.


There a couple things that I don't understand here.

First one is how "pre ignition" could effect engine deposits? My chain of thought here is that pre-ignition is usually associated with extremely high cylinder tempatures and pressure.

The second is , I am not fallowing how an engine running @ 10,000' is loading harder?

I'm here to learn!
 
First one is how "pre ignition" could effect engine deposits? My chain of thought here is that pre-ignition is usually associated with extremely high cylinder tempatures and pressure.
You reversed what he said; engine deposits can result in pre-ignition.
 
First one is how "pre ignition" could effect engine deposits? My chain of thought here is that pre-ignition is usually associated with extremely high cylinder tempatures and pressure.

The second is , I am not fallowing how an engine running @ 10,000' is loading harder?
Deposits can cause pre ignition, not the other way around. The mechanism for this has to do with metallic based detergent deposits that buildup on the crown or head. Engine runs a bit lean and these deposits turn red hot leading to alternate ignition sources.
At high altitude the engine is making less power but asked to dot he same amount of work. Therefore the load per HP is higher.
 
Deposits can cause pre ignition, not the other way around. The mechanism for this has to do with metallic based detergent deposits that buildup on the crown or head. Engine runs a bit lean and these deposits turn red hot leading to alternate ignition sources.
At high altitude the engine is making less power but asked to dot he same amount of work. Therefore the load per HP is higher.

Thanks, yes, I did read that bassawards , yes, deposits do, not the other way around, my bad.

But still not fallowing the altitude thing , or extra load at altitude causing more load? my thought chain here is less air, less power, less load, you can ask for more, even say "please" but your not going to get more.

But an interesting side point, engines at altitude are less prone to pre-ignite.
 
Hey Guys,
I just bought a new Jonsered 2152 (yes, the green cap!) and the owners manual says not to use synthetic oil in the mix. I use Mobil 2T at 40-1 in my 066 milling saw and would like to have just one gas can to carry around. Opinions?
Thanks,
Kit
 
Is that saw not made in an Elux factory right next to Husky products? Do Husky's say not to use syn oil? Hmmm...
 
Hey Guys,
I just bought a new Jonsered 2152 (yes, the green cap!) and the owners manual says not to use synthetic oil in the mix. I use Mobil 2T at 40-1 in my 066 milling saw and would like to have just one gas can to carry around. Opinions?
Thanks,
Kit

I checked the (7) owners manuals for the 2152 on the Jonsered website. Did not see any mention of not using synthetic oil.
 
I checked the (7) owners manuals for the 2152 on the Jonsered website. Did not see any mention of not using synthetic oil.

+2 husky suggest that you use semi-synthetic/synthetic oil in saw if i dont remember wrong...
 
But still not fallowing the altitude thing , or extra load at altitude causing more load? my thought chain here is less air, less power, less load, you can ask for more, even say "please" but your not going to get more.
Say your cutting a 30'' pondo log at 10,000 feet and a 30'' pondo log at sea level. At sea level the engine is making more power, hence the load on the motor is less. Cutting the same log at altitude the engine is making less power hence the engine is working harder.
In a exaggerated sense which saw is going to work harder a 346 cutting the above mentioned log or a 066?
 
Non of my husky owners manuals say not to use a synthetic, including the one for the 353G I just bought, which I believe is the same saw as the 2152.
Husky sells a synthetic blend oil.
 
I went back to reread the manual and thought I was going crazy - no mention of synthetic oil BUT then I picked up an addendum to the warranty. It's from February 2006, titled Jonsered Fuel & Oil recommendations # JSFLOIL (0602) and it states "We strongly advise you to avoid alternative oils that do not meet these specifications as well as generic brand oils and synthetic oils."

After reading all who use the synthetic oils and the good results, I believe I will continue to do so.
 
oil choices

In my region, I cannot find any synthetic oil. My options are:
Shindaiwa one <$1
Husky low smoke $2.10
opti-2 (1.8oz.) $1.65
various generics at the box stores, which I hve not tried.

No other options locally available.

Which of these to use?
 
In my region, I cannot find any synthetic oil. My options are:
Shindaiwa one <$1
Husky low smoke $2.10
opti-2 (1.8oz.) $1.65
various generics at the box stores, which I hve not tried.

No other options locally available.

Which of these to use?

Give me your adress on a PM and I'll send youn a gallon,,,

What kind of saw ryas running
 

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