Thinking about buying a 540xp

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I have never owned a top handle that wouldn't make a mess faster than a crew could clean it up. I've run 338's and 192's. the 338 is built tougher and has some balls but, I usually run the 192 because its more comfortable. if you are good at setting your chain up to your saw, you can get good cut speeds with almost any of them. I have a stock 192 for my ground guys and I run a slightly modded 192 in the tree. they are like 2 different saws. if I was to buy a new top handle, it would be a 540. I think the balance of the 338 is too forward.
 
jefflovstrom said:
Something about the brass nipple I think. You should be able to buy a 2014 I would think. Jeff
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I have no doubt i can go and buy a 2014 one, but as i already own a 540 why would i? Not gonna shelve the saw and go buy another at full price just for a problem that may or may not be relevant to my saw. :dizzy:
From what i have read it was only a 3 week production run of saws that were mainly sold in Europe anyway. Certainly not a reason to go buy a new saw for $600 plus to replace one running fine on only it's 9th tank! :rolleyes:
 
Matt81 said:
I have no doubt i can go and buy a 2014 one, but as i already own a 540 why would i? Not gonna shelve the saw and go buy another at full price just for a problem that may or may not be relevant to my saw. :dizzy:
From what i have read it was only a 3 week production run of saws that were mainly sold in Europe anyway. Certainly not a reason to go buy a new saw for $600 plus to replace one running fine on only it's 9th tank! :rolleyes:
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Where'd you read that?
 
On another tree/arborist forum website. Can't remember which one right now as im just running out the door to go to my night job, but i will try to find it in my bookmarks and post a link after i get home.
 
There's nothing wrong with the 2013's besides the fuel line issue though, right? I mean otherwise its the same saw right? I had the fuel line issue fixed on my 2013. It still seems like a piece of dog crap. I am waiting to hear Bob and Todd's opinion. Jeff says they rip.
 
tree MDS said:
There's nothing wrong with the 2013's besides the fuel line issue though, right? I mean otherwise its the same saw right? I had the fuel line issue fixed on my 2013. It still seems like a piece of dog crap. I am waiting to hear Bob and Todd's opinion. Jeff says they rip.
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Maybe they do really do rip in the pure non polluted air in sunny So. Cal after all it is AutoTune and maybe it senses that.:laugh:
 
sac-climber said:
The 338 is one of my favorite top handles, other than the filter location. I don't think the 201 is that bad either, a little less oomph than the 200...sure. I'd give the 540 a chance no problem. I hate the 200T or nothing at all BS :rolleyes:
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Precisely. All a 338/2139T jonsy needs is a 9/16th or less added muffler port. It will then have more torque and cut speed than a 200T. The NE 338's are problem free and bombproof, and have been for several years. That said, a muffler modded 192T is plenty peppy, and is a great bargain for the price. I like the light weight, especially great for me, in my 39th year of tree work, and with a right hand with problems.

Eventuallly, I'll get the tiny Stihl 150 and at least give it a muffler mod, if not have Randy work it over. I've heard they do just fine.
 
After reading these posts you guys have me thinking the 338 is a better saw and can be had much cheaper if I go used. But maybe I do need a smaller lighter saw to throw into the mixture. What about those 150's of whatever they are? I remember seeing a real small climber using one awhile back before they came out in the US I believe.
 
imagineero said:
For a different perspective, most full time pro climbers use 200t's, even the ones that only run husky for every other saw in their lineup. There's a reason for that. Those climbers who use lesser saws think that the 0.5 second difference (or whatever) in a cut is not a big deal. On the ground it's not a big deal. I'm a semi die hard stihl fan, but on the ground I could really care less. I've got a couple 346xp's in my lineup and so long as I'm sharpening the chain and tuning the saw I don't mind if it's a 372 or 440 (love those 441cm's though!) a 395 or a 660, and would definitely favor a 3120 over an 880.

Up in the tree it's a different story though. A climbing saw is your bread and butter if you're a climber, that saw makes you money. And over the course of the life of that saw, that one saw might make you $100k as a contract climber, or even more money if you own the business and are climbing. That's a whole lot of money. Those branches aren't just gone to hang around and wait for you to do your thing, for better or worse we have gravity. Fractions of a second really do make a difference up in the air, and a whole lot of difference to the time it takes to get a job done. If you've got a saw that really drives the chain, you can drop branches confidently in the attitude you want them in. It's a very spontaneous thing, and there's no second try. A good fast saw with an aggressive chain means you can spear cuts down. Or fold them and pop them off at exactly the right attitude to control the bounce when they hit the ground. You can fold them ust how you want them, and release them at that split second in time when they will come down just right and cause no damage.

Being able to do that saves a whole bunch of time. I can cut and drop 10-15 branches in the time it takes to rope 1. That might translate to 2 or 3 trees done in a day vs 1. If you're a basic climber with easy trees and just need to get the wood on the ground and haven't even gotten around to doing trick cuts, then there's a whole bunch of climbing saws out there that will fill your needs. Or rear handled saws. Or hand saws, or whatever. If you're a gun climber who needs to git 'er done every day of the week then who gives a **** about the price? We used to pay $1500 a pop for 200T's in aus, and worth every penny (though of course I was buying mine stateside) but if someone came out with a more powerful climbing saw that hit the sweet spot I'd fork out $2k+ in the blink of an eye and do the same again a couple times a year. That saw makes money like no other saw can.

Shaun
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Agreed, Shaun. And that's why I'm liking the new 63 PS full chisel chain. I've only just now broken into my new reel of it, and have it on only one of my Huskys--an old 335 California which now really screams through the wood. I'm going to make more chains, even put a loop on the 192T. All my climb saws are muffler modded, which makes them very fast.... most are faster than the 200 with just the screen removed.
 
treeclimber101 said:
My issue with the 338 is the fuel/oil tanks , you have to tilt the saw to fill it , kinda a pain in the ass
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I've never had a problem filling these saws, and I've run them since they made their debut, circa 1997. Yes, if tipped, they are easier to fill, but I rarely bother.
 
rbtree said:
I've never had a problem filling these saws, and I've run them since they made their debut, circa 1997. Yes, if tipped, they are easier to fill, but I rarely bother.
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I've been using a 2 gallon can a Gatorade bottle for bar oil and that helps but yea it's not really a issue just a kinda dumb collaboration IMO... I love the saw though just a small querk for me
 
chevybob said:
After reading these posts you guys have me thinking the 338 is a better saw and can be had much cheaper if I go used. But maybe I do need a smaller lighter saw to throw into the mixture. What about those 150's of whatever they are? I remember seeing a real small climber using one awhile back before they came out in the US I believe.
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Dude for the money it's a no brainer , first thing though take out the screen on the muffler and make that exhaust port a little bigger , huge difference in power
 

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