Thinking of buyin a Stihl ms390

[THALL10326]

LOL, Hopefully I will not get cancer but I will be calling you if I do.

Smart man,:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


Naaaaaaaaa fact is I don't push any saw on any customer. They pretty much decide on their own what they want and can afford. I do explain the differances between the models if they inquire. I do ask them what they intend on using the saw for. If the saw they come in seeking will do the job they are wanting to do most times that's the saw they go home with.

 

[.aspx]

Never ran a 390 but have run a 290 and own a 310. Great saws. They also respond well to a muffler mod.

Whatever you do don't buy an 044. It will cause you to run right out and buy an 066 2 weeks later.

I speak from experience.

 

[THALL10326]

Never ran a 390 but have run a 290 and own a 310. Great saws. They also respond well to a muffler mod.

Whatever you do don't buy an 044. It will cause you to run right out and buy an 066 2 weeks later.

I speak from experience.

I got a freebie 290 a while back, cylinder fried from old fuel. I put a new 390 cylinder and piston back in it and re-jetted the carb and opened the muffler alittle bit under the front cover, can't tell its been touched. That saw runs awesome. The biggest complaint I ever got on a 390 is when it was called the 039. They didn't have compression releases and those saws would snap the rope out of your hand if you didn't crank it fast enuff. Other than that I've heard of no issues at all..

 

[Ray Bennett]

Never ran a 390 but have run a 290 and own a 310. Great saws. They also respond well to a muffler mod.

Whatever you do don't buy an 044. It will cause you to run right out and buy an 066 2 weeks later.

I speak from experience.

Now that right there is a true statement.

 

[stihlaficionado]

I have to counter that the 290/390 saws are far far easier to muffler modify than the 361. All you have to do is open up the little holes into bigger holes in the 390 muffler and snap the limiter tab off, and you are set. No parts or fab are needed to do that on the 390.

As far as cutting, they are both similar in power, but that is about where the comparison ends. The plastic engine mount is not the issue with the 390; its the plastic clutch housing area that is prone to melt-down. And the cheaper handle, and the weight factor. The 390 is about a pound heavier. And the air filters are funky on the 290/390 saws... yadda yadda.

Personally, I agree and think that the 290 and 310 are better saws in that series, as they warrant the difference in their reduced prices. The 390 gets up there in cost, and so you may as well upgrade to the 361. Although they do not have the decomp button, which they both should have.

+1

 

[stihlaficionado]

I'm sorry, but this is simply not true. When asked a question, we need to give facts and not propaganda.

The truth of the matter is that the 390 and 361 will cut very comparably to each other. Yes I have owned and used them both. And the 390 will last a long time too. I used mine for probably 10 years. They are not built like junk.

The difference is in the following.

1. The 361 is much more fuel efficient.
2. The 361 has better anti-vibe using springs instead of rubber dampers.
3. The 361 is much easier to modd, outside of a muffler mod. They both respond very well to a muffler mod.
4. The 361 is easier to work on.
5. The 390 has a magnesium engine mounted in a plastic frame. Some say it's very inferior. Myself, I find it very durable, there's no paint to chip off so they look nice a whole lot longer, and who cares if it's a little harder to work on. It's not likely to break and most owners aren't modding them.

The thing of it is, is that the 361 is not that much more than the 390. For that reason I would get the 361 instead of the 390. If you were talking a 310 or 290, the price difference is much greater.

I, too, have run both saws(my 361 and a friend's 390). My 361 will outcut the 390 each time(each w/ 20 " bar, rsc chain).
"propaganda"...
While I do agree that I could have elaborated more...my comment was certainly not propaganda.

 

[windthrown]

Hmm... I just realized that he only asked for opinions about the 390 and we somehow turned it into needing to decide between the 390 and 361.

So let's redo that response: Yes, the 390 is a good saw.


BUT THE 361 IS BETTER!!!

. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ note hidden response in white at the end of that post...

To repeat myself...

Yes, I know he did not ask about the 361. But I had to tell him about it. I know, I know! But I had to do it! Yes, my precious. I need to tell people about my precious saw. It is an addiction, see? I know that we should be more supportive of other saws, and let people buy the 390, and the Huskies and Jred saws and all, but really. They should at least consider the 361, even if they do not need it. Why? Becasue it is a 361, that's why! What do you mean, I am insane? Well, I was diagnosed with early onset of chainsaw addiction disease of course. And I am in therapy for that, here on AS daily. I am compelled to tell them all about the marvels of the 361. OK, I will try not to do that so much, but really, they need to know! They all need to know what it is like to run a 361 in wood and cut like a madman all day, and after it to post more and more about it on AS late at night, see, and it all becomes more and more addicting, see? And the more you use the saw, the more you want to, and ther more you want to the more you post about it, and the more you post about it the more you want to use the saw... and... and... and...

 

[bcorradi]

The plastic engine mount is not the issue with the 390; its the plastic clutch housing area that is prone to melt-down. .

Only if you leave the chainbrake on and hold the trigger for an extended period of time. Under correct operation the clutch side of the gas/oil tank housing holds up just fine.

 

[windthrown]

Only if you leave the chainbrake on and hold the trigger for an extended period of time. Under correct operation the clutch side of the gas/oil tank housing holds up just fine.

That condition will certainly cause problems, but they will also cook if the brake/clutch area gets caked up (heat from friction), or the brake band is bent (more heat), or if the clutch gets oil on it and slips (more heat). The area also gets grenaded it either the sprocket bearings go out, or a clutch spring fails. I has seen sooooooooooo many 250's and 290's with cooked and grenaded clutch areas. I have had 2 of them myself. Just look on Ebay; there are always lots of them. In my view, its the Achillies' heel of the 290 and 210 series of saws. A metal lined outer clutch sleeve and oil feed line in the cases would do wonders to extend the life of those saws. Planned obselecence anyone?

 

[Just Mow]

It's late, i'm tired.....Just go buy a saw and I will be able to sleep better...


Make it a 361

 

[extraspecialman]

I had an 039 with a 16" bar,that ol saw would really eat trees.I cut hundreds of loads of wood and fence post with it.My 361 has a 18" bar and id say the 039 and 361 are neck and neck as far as chain speed.The 039 [390] is the same saw as the 290 ,just more ccs,and weighs the exact same,so a huge step up from a 290.My only problems with that 039 was that I stripped out 2 starter housing screws,and that was only the second time I had the housing off.Anytime something threads into plastic,your askin for problems.My only other problem was the clutch made a constant noise.Not sure if thats common to the 290 310 390 line or not[my 290 makes no noise],but other than that it was a good saw.The 361 is definately the better saw,better balance,less weight,and if I had the extra $$ id go 361,but that 390 is a great saw for the money,and if ya dont mind the extra weight it will even make a good every day hard use saw.

 

[RiverRat2]

I'm sorry, but this is simply not true. When asked a question, we need to give facts and not propaganda.

The truth of the matter is that the 390 and 361 will cut very comparably to each other. Yes I have owned and used them both. And the 390 will last a long time too. I used mine for probably 10 years. They are not built like junk.

The difference is in the following.

1. The 361 is much more fuel efficient.
2. The 361 has better anti-vibe using springs instead of rubber dampers.
3. The 361 is much easier to modd, outside of a muffler mod. They both respond very well to a muffler mod.
4. The 361 is easier to work on.
5. The 390 has a magnesium engine mounted in a plastic frame. Some say it's very inferior. Myself, I find it very durable, there's no paint to chip off so they look nice a whole lot longer, and who cares if it's a little harder to work on. It's not likely to break and most owners aren't modding them.

The thing of it is, is that the 361 is not that much more than the 390. For that reason I would get the 361 instead of the 390. If you were talking a 310 or 290, the price difference is much greater.

Not true, not true!!!!!! Propaganda!!!!!!!!

Engine is aluminum,,,,, not Magnesium!!!!!!


LOL!!!!!

 

[SawTroll]

Just wanted some advice from some people that own this model saw...I dont want to wear my Pro Mac 700 out,,and want to get something to replace it with about the same power to it..Been really lookin at one,,and just wondered if it has good power and no probs with this model,,so why I ask here,,word of mouth and experance means alot to me...Thanks....

Don't even look at, and by all means avoid picking up a 361, if you are set on a 390.........

 

[SawTroll]

I, too, have run both saws(my 361 and a friend's 390). My 361 will outcut the 390 each time(each w/ 20 " bar, rsc chain).
"propaganda"...
While I do agree that I could have elaborated more...my comment was certainly not propaganda.

No surprices there, even though peak power are the same, the useful power-bands are not.

 

[bcorradi]

That condition will certainly cause problems, but they will also cook if the brake/clutch area gets caked up (heat from friction), or the brake band is bent (more heat), or if the clutch gets oil on it and slips (more heat). The area also gets grenaded it either the sprocket bearings go out, or a clutch spring fails. I has seen sooooooooooo many 250's and 290's with cooked and grenaded clutch areas. I have had 2 of them myself. Just look on Ebay; there are always lots of them. In my view, its the Achillies' heel of the 290 and 210 series of saws. A metal lined outer clutch sleeve and oil feed line in the cases would do wonders to extend the life of those saws. Planned obselecence anyone?

Based on my experience the majority that have damage on the clutchside were due to the fact of accidentally running it with the chainbrake on. Eventhough your scenarios can also cause the damage it is less likely imo. I personally don't think they are deficiencies with the saw. If proper operation and maintenance is performed no damage will occur. Its about in the same class as saying my bar got burnt because I forgot to put bar lube in the saw.

 

[Lakeside53]

+1

 

[teacherman]

Good point.

ME-Yes sir we have the 390 sitting right here, there ya go, whatcha think.

Buyer-I saw this saw in the catalog and I think its right up my alley.

Me-Its a pretty good saw, not a pro saw mind ya but for regular use it will be fine.

Buyer- Not a pro, well whats the nearest Pro to it.

Me-This 361 here would be the nearest pro to it. Here have a feel.

Buyer- Hmmmm this saw is lighter and more streamline.

Me-Yes, has alittle more power too but its costs more. You don't really need it for your type of sawing.

Buyer-I could swing another 120.00 I guess, I sure like the feel of this 361 better.

Me-Well its up to you, I'll sell you either one.

Buyer-I'll take the 361.

Me-Smart man.

:hmm3grin2orange: Another future AS saw junkie, I'm sure!

 

[teacherman]

Only if you leave the chainbrake on and hold the trigger for an extended period of time. Under correct operation the clutch side of the gas/oil tank housing holds up just fine.

That is assuming a lot, though:monkey: :greenchainsaw:

 

[bcorradi]

That is assuming a lot, though:monkey: :greenchainsaw:

Heck I know someone who purchased a junk 029 super for over $100 plus shipping .

 

[SawTroll]

Only if you leave the chainbrake on and hold the trigger for an extended period of time. Under correct operation the clutch side of the gas/oil tank housing holds up just fine.

:jawdrop: :jawdrop: Who can be stupid enough to do that?????