To the Stihl dealers here - do you mind it when...

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kiwiguy

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...weekend warriors and home tinkerers bring half apart saws in for work?

I took my 029 project into the Stihl shop today - stripped right down as far as I could go, and humbly asked they guys there if they could crack the 4 crankcase nuts (despite what the service manual says, I reckon these must have Loctite Red in them - the hair drier had no chance), remove the flywheel (not worth buying the tool the amount I'll ever need it) and take of the rear bar stud (also not worth buying the tool for).

I guess I generally like to a) save money by doing as much myself without (hopefully) screwing something up and b) learn how stuff works and pieces together. Where I can and it's economic, I try to buy the tools to do the job myself.

The guys were really nice and accomodating, but does this generally annoy Stihl dealers? I mean, I can't see how, but stihl....
 
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I work at a shop that does mechanical everything from wheelchairs,cars,dirt bikes,snowmobiles and of course saws.Everything else ,half apart puzzles kinda suck! Powersaws I don't care in fact I like wowing people when I fix their %@&* up. LOL
 
he is asking, do you mind taking the saw apart to the next stage so he can work on it. not asking if you like putting them together.
 
I like these signs I see at shops. Shop labor rate: $50/hr. If you worked on it first: $100/hr.
In your situation I can't imagine them having a problem with it. It's the ones that tried to fix it and screwed it up worse that must be a nightmare for them.
 
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We mind when you bring in a striped down saw want it fixed and re assembled, and running.
But if you just need a couple things done it no big deal as long you're willing to pay regular shop rate for the work.
We don't get a lot of basket case repairs on chainsaws, but locally there are a lot of "Backyard Commando" mower repair guys and we have to undo a lot of their work.
 
If the indivdual just wants the "next" level done, I usually don't mind doing it, if doesn't take long. I understand folks like to save money and why spend big money on pullers, etc. On the other hand, I hope he/she realize I have to pay for rent, insurances, etc..

Most cases, people (and thier friends) do come back for bigger jobs that they couldn't handle.
 
I worked for a Honda motorcycle and power equipment dealer 20 years ago, does that count?

If you bring somebody a basket case and want to make him responsible for sorting out the pieces, figuring out what was wrong, replacing what you lost, and putting it all together so that it works, you won't be popular.
If you just want to use the dealer as a machine shop to perform the specific tasks that require special tools, I don't see anything wrong with that, especially if it's clean and ready to work on when you bring it in.
 
If you just want to use the dealer as a machine shop to perform the specific tasks that require special tools, I don't see anything wrong with that, especially if it's clean and ready to work on when you bring it in.

Yep... just like tearing down a car engine and having the crank polished and the cylinders bored, and head work done at a machine shop... There is just some stuff even the good shade tree mechanics can't do because of the special tools involved...

Gary
 
I think in your situation, you are acting fine because you are asking for something specific and not asking him to rebuild it. I have my dealer do this kind of stuff all the time and he doesn't mind one bit.

BTW, the 029 flywheel doesn't use a special tool. A nice hit on the side opposite the magnets and it should pop off.
 
Don't hit your flywheel on the 029 anywhere (or any other flywheel).... That's what leads to cracks. The 029 FW is removed by loosening the nut (or use the special stihl protector) until the thread end is covered, hold the saw BY THE FW, then tap the crank/nut center.

No... the screws are not inserted with loctite - they are thread-forming screws that cut into the casting - very tight. If you use the old screws, degrease and re-insert them with blue loctite.


Yes... I help out guys working on their own stuff, but if we're busy.. expect to wait... and, if it takes more than 5-10 minutes, expect a nominal charge. However.. it depends on the dealer and the customer. Try taking your Toyota parts to the dealer and asking them to help with disassembly....
 
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Yep... just like tearing down a car engine and having the crank polished and the cylinders bored, and head work done at a machine shop... There is just some stuff even the good shade tree mechanics can't do because of the special tools involved...

Gary
Yep I had a 383 Chevy crank done for a case of beer!Because I went to school with the guy that grinds cranks cant beet that deal!
 
Don't hit your flywheel on the 029 anywhere (or any other flywheel).... That's what leads to cracks. The 029 FW is removed by loosening the nut (or use the special stihl protector) until the thread end is covered, hold the saw BY THE FW, then tap the crank/nut center.

No... the screws are not inserted with loctite - they are thread-forming screws that cut into the casting - very tight. If you use the old screws, degrease and re-insert them with blue loctite.


Yes... I help out guys working on their own stuff, but if we're busy.. expect to wait... and, if it takes more than 5-10 minutes, expect a nominal charge. However.. it depends on the dealer and the customer. Try taking your Toyota parts to the dealer and asking them to help with disassembly....

Thanks for all your replies, lads. I feel better about dropping the saw off now - yes, it was clean, and yes, I was just asking for 3 specific jobs 1) 4 crankcase bolts out, 2) rear bar stud out and 3) flywheel off. Certainly no expectation (or desire) for them to put it all back together, and I didn't even ask about shop rates as I assume I'll be paying whatever it takes and that the guys behind the counter are fair. The flywheel on mine must be real old and stuck on, because it wouldn't come off using the method described of gently tapping the center nut.

In addition, I did order a few parts for the saw - muffler gaskets and bolts and a new rear bar stud (if the current one gets mangled), and I'll certainly use these guys again for other jobs, and picked up a new rim sprocket last week, so they've got a few dollars of mine already :)
 
To echo Andy... you should never hit a a flywheel of any kind with a hammer... unless you like things coming apart while at 10,000 RPM... :)

Gary

You can also screw up the magnets if you don't crack the flywheel...an old Briggs Master technician told me about broken magnets in certain Briggs flywheels that causes them to reverse polarity?
 
To echo Andy... you should never hit a a flywheel of any kind with a hammer... unless you like things coming apart while at 10,000 RPM... :)

Gary

Gary do you own any saws that rev at only 10,000 rpm?
I would think that was a low estimate for what it could be!
 
Gary do you own any saws that rev at only 10,000 rpm?
I would think that was a low estimate for what it could be!

To echo Andy... you should never hit a a flywheel of any kind with a hammer... unless you like things coming apart while above 10,000 RPM... :)

Gary

How's that? :)

I was thinkin' more along the lines of that anyways...

Gary
 
I wouldn't lose any sleep over asking my dealer and often if they are quick jobs they are foc with a cup of coffee thrown in!!

That said annually I spend several £1000 or more and he is always my first point of call for new kit.
 

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