The jaskshaft bearings will run hotter because they are spinning faster. My bearings fairly warm, it does not hurt the dodge bearings as long as you use a good quality grease. The bearings are an extremely hard metal. Just make sure the grease is rated for the temperature that the bearings will operate at.
Vermeer 252 pillow block bearing problems
- Thread starter Humpstump
- Start date
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Cant help but think it is side loaded or something my buddys rayco ones dont get hot.
It's nearly impossible to side load the jackshaft.
Do you have a infrared temp gun?
I do, but I've never checked them with it. I would guess that my jackshaft bearing run around the 150 to 185 degree range, depending on the time of year.. as long as they are under 300, I'm not worried about it.
I'm going to check mine while grinding and see what I have. Under 300 and they wont cook is that accurate? Ideal would be under 200?
Correct. Under 300... With the good grease. I will get the part number for it a little later today when I get back to the shop. The cooler you can run them the better.. so if you can hold them under 200 that would be great. But the more grease you pack into them to try to cool them down will only make them hotter as there is then more resistance inside the bearing..
Problem solved I grease the hell out of them every time I use it that explains why my buddy who don't take care of his is cooler! I cant believe that the grease is bad for it if you use too much? How does that work exactly? Just the friction drag from too much grease heats them up huh? I would think it would spin out quickly.
I know this is a long read, but this is copied straight from the Amsoil website describing their product (GVC).
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL Synthetic High-Viscosity Grease (GVC) is a lithium-complex-thickened grease blended with premium ISO-320 synthetic base oils. This grease is fully compounded with additives providing EP protection, oxidation resistance and rust and corrosion protection. AMSOIL High-Viscosity Grease is shear stable, maintaining its viscosity and consistency in the presence of mechanical activity. It also stays in place by resisting water washout. During high-temperature operation, AMSOIL High-Viscosity Grease’s thickener system remains intact and the high-viscosity base oils resist thermal breakdown, providing a thick film for good boundary lubrication protection. AMSOIL GVC adheres to critical components in severe conditions to provide problem-free operation, resulting in increased uptime and reduced repair and maintenance costs.
APPLICATION
AMSOIL Synthetic High-Viscosity Grease is excellent for use in heavy-duty industrial and off-road applications where equipment operates under adverse conditions, including exposure to environmental elements, slow, heavily-loaded applications and shock-loading conditions. AMSOIL High-Viscosity Grease is formulated to excel in wet applications requiring excellent water resistance and in high-temperature applications up to 177ºC (350°F) in continuous service and 204ºC (400°F) in intermittent service. The lithium-complex thickener system and high-viscosity base oil provide top performance in hostile environments and heavy-duty industrial or offroad applications where typical multi-purpose greases may not perform up to standards.
AMSOIL High-Viscosity Grease is compatible with many other types of greases. However, it is recommended that when changing greases the equipment be cleaned of the old grease when possible or flushed with a liberal amount of the new grease while the mechanism is in operation. Closely monitor the system for any inconsistencies. Any grease compatibility questions should be referred to your AMSOIL representative or AMSOIL Technical Services.
APPLICATION MAINTENANCE
Maintaining a clean work environment is important when equipment greasing is performed. Wipe grease fittings clean prior to injecting grease to prevent contaminant ingestion. Maintain bearing housings one-third to onehalf full of grease. Prevent over-greasing as this can result in excessive heat buildup. Supplement standard grease maintenance by periodically cleaning and packing housings with fresh grease on an established maintenance schedule.
PERFORMANCE FEATURES
•High dropping point (exceeds 260°C ( 500°F))
•EP additives and high-viscosity base oil for boundary lubrication protection
•Resists thermal and oxidation degradation
•Resists water washout
I personally use this grease in most of my equipment and highly recommend it. I have tried a lot of different greases and this one holds up to the test.
I would recomend finding your local Amsoil dealer for purchase of this. If you have problems finding one locally, I am a dealer for them as well and would be more than happy to assist in any way possible. I am hoping to get a website up and running soon.
I hope this helps.
Sounds good I wonder if it is as good as they claim is all.
I just got off the phone with their tech line and there is a grease that is better than that one. It's part number is GPOR2CR. It has the moly in it where the one I linked before doesn't. Moly will impregnate into the steel and make it extremely slick. They recommend this grease for pillow block bearings in heavy duty off road equipment.
Good tip I will look into this.
stumper63
ArboristSite Operative
"The 1 1/4 bearings are a direct replacement. The 1 1/2 need a small amount of modification to the 252. You will need to grind about 1/4 inch out around the shaft to make it clear and place a washer or two under the bolts that hold the bottom belt cover on. The bolts are the ones on top of the hinged piece."
Holemaker, so if I understand correctly the Dodge bearings move the shaft over a little bit toward the operator so that the end of the shaft would rub against the belt cover, that's why the cover needs to be spaced out a couple of washers?
Also, when you say to grind out about 1/4" around the shaft is that location where the shaft goes into the belt guard? And again, is that because the bearings raise the shaft a little? Mounting bolts line right up?
I'm due for bearings pretty soon so would like to upgrade if they hold up longer than Vermeer's. I've got about 550 hours on these bearings right now.
Also, the factory jackshaft belt type/length is an A64. Did you have to go with the A65 for any particular reason? Did you try an A64 first? Reason I ask is that my 252 has a 35hp Vanguard engine on it now and with the bigger engine it comes really close in the full up/full to side position to hitting the gas/oil tank cover when the belt gets a little stretched, so I would like the engine to stay as close to the cutter wheel, which a shorter belt will accomplish.
Thanks for the help
Stumper63
Holemaker, so if I understand correctly the Dodge bearings move the shaft over a little bit toward the operator so that the end of the shaft would rub against the belt cover, that's why the cover needs to be spaced out a couple of washers?
Also, when you say to grind out about 1/4" around the shaft is that location where the shaft goes into the belt guard? And again, is that because the bearings raise the shaft a little? Mounting bolts line right up?
I'm due for bearings pretty soon so would like to upgrade if they hold up longer than Vermeer's. I've got about 550 hours on these bearings right now.
Also, the factory jackshaft belt type/length is an A64. Did you have to go with the A65 for any particular reason? Did you try an A64 first? Reason I ask is that my 252 has a 35hp Vanguard engine on it now and with the bigger engine it comes really close in the full up/full to side position to hitting the gas/oil tank cover when the belt gets a little stretched, so I would like the engine to stay as close to the cutter wheel, which a shorter belt will accomplish.
Thanks for the help
Stumper63
Last edited:
The dodge bearings do not shift the shaft to the side. It has to stay lined up tge same as it is or the cutter wheel could hit the guard around it. It raises the whole shaft a little bit. Need to grind where the shaft goes into the belt guard. The washers are used to space the bolts themselves from going in as far or they would contact the belt as it comes around the top of the cutter wheel pulley. The bolt holes lined right up for me. I use an impact to tighten them with to make sure they don't slip around at all.
stumper63
ArboristSite Operative
Holemaker,
OK, so I think I have it now, the bolts that need to be spaced are just the two that hold the hinged cover in place, correct?
Glad to hear they will bolt right on and the shaft isn't moved over any. I was looking at the spec's and comparing them with the factory and the housing looks a little longer, maybe 1/8", but could be ground off to fit.
Did you get a chance to think about my belt question in the last post?
Thanks so much,
stumper63
OK, so I think I have it now, the bolts that need to be spaced are just the two that hold the hinged cover in place, correct?
Glad to hear they will bolt right on and the shaft isn't moved over any. I was looking at the spec's and comparing them with the factory and the housing looks a little longer, maybe 1/8", but could be ground off to fit.
Did you get a chance to think about my belt question in the last post?
Thanks so much,
stumper63
That's correct on the bolts. Good luck grinding them down. I tried that too and the case is extremely hard steel as well. Somewhere between studite and carbide as far as hardness..
On the belts, you can adjust the length to be whatever you need it to be. I'm retrofitting a Lombardini diesel onto mine. If you need shorter belts, use them.. I can't see your machine from here to say exactly what you need for length on them.
but I would definitely use the carlisle belts. I typically get about 8 years or so worth of life out of them on the rig. They hold better and they don't stretch much once you het the initial run in on them. I would guess by the time you grind one or two stumps they would be run in and then there is very little need for adjustment after that. I replaced the 4-banded belt that goes to the cutter wheel with a carlisle belt shortly after I bought the machine, ground out 2 small stumps and the belt was fairly loose. I tightned it back up and haven't adjusted it since. That's been a few hundred hours ago. I took the covers off when I tore the machine down and that belt was still tight.Lombardini/Kohler
I know this is slightly off topic.. but I want to get the word out as far and fast as I can.. DON'T BUY ANYTHING FROM KOHLER!! The new Lombardini engine that I bought ran great.... for about 20 minutes.. then turned into a runaway diesel and puked it's guts out the exhaust.. and Kohler is trying everything they can to snake their way out of replacing it..
I know this is slightly off topic.. but I want to get the word out as far and fast as I can.. DON'T BUY ANYTHING FROM KOHLER!! The new Lombardini engine that I bought ran great.... for about 20 minutes.. then turned into a runaway diesel and puked it's guts out the exhaust.. and Kohler is trying everything they can to snake their way out of replacing it..
CalTreeEquip
ArboristSite Guru
You should start you own threat with this info.
CalTreeEquip
ArboristSite Guru
"Thread" not "threat".
AMSOIL Grease Comparison Testing - YouTube
This is a video produced by Amsoil demonstrating the pound out resistance of several different very popular greases. While we don't do much pounding on the pillow block bearings, they do still take some impact..
This is a video produced by Amsoil demonstrating the pound out resistance of several different very popular greases. While we don't do much pounding on the pillow block bearings, they do still take some impact..
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