% weight on truck w/5th trailer?

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Any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more if the vehicle(s) being towed has a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds. Vehicles in this class include

This is for a CDL A in the commonwealth of Virginia
 
Any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more if the vehicle(s) being towed has a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds. Vehicles in this class include

This is for a CDL A in the commonwealth of Virginia

And the major issue is it varies by state. 26001 is usually the tipping point for CDL. 26K or less is "usually" considered "under CDL". We had a 2 axle straight with a tag axle that would legally gross 44,000, in all the lower 48. Class B required. Once you exceed 26001, combination "trucks" require Class A. Grandpa in his motorhome towing his SUV and a boat behind that doesn't have to have squat (at least in some states).
 
Thank you for all the replies, sharing your knowledge and experience. As I expected, you can buy a tandem dually gooseneck rated at 22,000, but realistically only haul 8,000 with it if keeping within the gcwr of a one ton tow vehicle. I have considered a larger flatbed truck, or even box truck, but the operating expense of mileage, licensing, and insurance pretty much nixes that. Mileage the key word. Which brings me back to a one ton and dump trailer. We have had great luck with Ford cars and mini vans, and the dealer service is really good. But, I would be buying a used truck. 7.3's are really price-e for their mileage and age, 6.0 sounds like bad news, and the v-10 no better. Why does it take four or more years to get an engine right? Have not heard anything about Ford's 5.4 gas engines. Not a lot of reg. cab, 8' box, plain jane work trucks reguardless of brand. Is 4x4 a must have in a truck for pulling a dump trailer in the winter? I'm thinking it is. Comes down to what is the most efficient, cost effective way to deliver firewood?
 
Thank you for all the replies, sharing your knowledge and experience. As I expected, you can buy a tandem dually gooseneck rated at 22,000, but realistically only haul 8,000 with it if keeping within the gcwr of a one ton tow vehicle. I have considered a larger flatbed truck, or even box truck, but the operating expense of mileage, licensing, and insurance pretty much nixes that. Mileage the key word. Which brings me back to a one ton and dump trailer. We have had great luck with Ford cars and mini vans, and the dealer service is really good. But, I would be buying a used truck. 7.3's are really price-e for their mileage and age, 6.0 sounds like bad news, and the v-10 no better. Why does it take four or more years to get an engine right? Have not heard anything about Ford's 5.4 gas engines. Not a lot of reg. cab, 8' box, plain jane work trucks reguardless of brand. Is 4x4 a must have in a truck for pulling a dump trailer in the winter? I'm thinking it is. Comes down to what is the most efficient, cost effective way to deliver firewood?

A 5.4l Triton Ford engine will not help your quest for decent fuel mileage when towing. The loads you are describing should most definitely be pulled by a diesel if you are looking for decent mileage when towing.

There's an 01 Ram 2500 with the 5.9L HO Cummins, 6-spd manual trans, 150k miles in the Indiana Auto-Rv for $13,500. Pretty much the twin of my truck with 50k more miles and I still bought mine much cheaper.
 
I thought maybe you had a gasser, mine crossed the scales at the transfer station at 8430# with me in it, cclb, 6leaker auto 4x4.

Not much extra steel in mine. Cab plus an 8x9 flatbed, 2 belly boxes, and dual rears. It doesn't turn real sharp so the short w/b helps. I have stake-sides if I'm hauling loose stuff.
 
I don't know what it's like for everyone else, but out here in the golden state, not only do you have to concern yourself with the CHP and their scales/inspection stations, but now many municipalities have gotten into the act and have a commercial rig that roams around town checking up on anything that looks like it can haul something else. Saw them at the entrance/exit of the local landfill one day writing up people who didn't have proper this and registered that. If you're in business and hauling anything in that business, you're supposed to have a CA number pasted on the sides of the truck somewhere they can see it. Lots of unlicensed business operators out there are learning the hard way about the vehicle code just because the commercial truck enforcement didn't see a CA number on the truck. Once they pull them over it's "you're over weight, under licensed, and your tie downs are not DOT approved". And that's just for a truck full of lawnmowers with a trailer full of yard clippings and palm tree rounds. Just imagine the tickee they'd envision when a truck and trailer overflowing with oak logs rumbles past them.
 
Nothing wrong with the v10s, They run within a couple ft pounds of the 7.3, forget the 6.0,6.4 those are nothing but a pain in the ass, extremely poor mileage also. Around here due to the EPA Diesel fuel is a buck or more a Gallon than the Gas. There are a lot of the 6.0,6.4 used on the market, dealers think they are gold, more like white metal. 5.4 decent engine but not for your use. I have a 99 2 valve v10 ( 3 valve is better) in a f350 (9300#) reg,cab auto 8' box, 4.7x rear end and a 06 f250 3valve 5.4 extra cab(9100#) 6'box, 3.7x rear end. Mileage is about the same. When pulling my 5t trailer with the 5000# worth of ss on it there is no comparison. The 5.4 is working hard, the v10 doesn't know its there. A fair share here is the difference in the rear ends of course. This time of year the 350 goes out the door for snow plowing with 3600# of salt in back Salter and custom bumper about another 600# and a 1000# of plow on the front, Its as happy as a pig in a wallow on a hot summer day. Never have a problem with break fade just kinda peels the road up underneath. Breaks are larger on the 350 than the 250 a lot of the other components are the same including the frame. The unbridled enthusiasm of the EPA has dealt a death blow to light diesel in the US, These are the same fools that have stuck us with the ethanol fiasco ( frickin wasn't worth squat in the 30's either, smarter people back then, just like the 30,s it drove corn prices up and everything else as well, it died out).
 
Ford had a problem with some of the V10's blowing the spark plugs out of the heads. I think it was all warranty repair, but a PITA none the less. The Powerstroke is pretty reliable, but mine doesn't care much for the cold. If it's in the 20's or less I have to plug it in for a while. I don't leave it too far from an electrical outlet.
 
$4/gal fuel doesn't help, but I'll bet they'll all be requiring DEF within a few years. I'm glad I don't live in California.

Ford and Chevy both have it. Cummins has been able to pass the EPA's emissions tests without incorporating DEF at this time. They've even built a diesel engine capable of continuous operation in an underground mine with very little emissions. Anywho...
 
Back to the OP

I don't want to get in the middle of a gas vs diesel or a chevy vs ford vs dodge debate. But remember your weight ratings of the truck you purchase. Electric trailer brakes will (should) compensate for the weight of the trailer and its rated payload. Keep in mind that the pay load should be loaded 60% on the tong of a trailer and 40% on the trailer axles. If your a mathematician as i'm not, you could do some research on the truck you want to purchase and the trailer and with the weights you already figured out, you'll be able to know the size you need for the load you intend.

In my honest opinion I would recommend a tandem axle dump with your wood and a trailer with your fork lift. air brake on the truck and air over electric on the trailer, or air on the trailer.
 
hauling with propane fueled engine

I like the goose neck dump with electric brakes, tandem axle (rated 14k), but not for routinely pulling the load you have in mind. I have an old straight 79 F250 4x4 manual (refurbished) with an aluminum flatbed and a 400 modified (total cost under $7.5k) that does what it needs to do -- gets me where I need to go reliably and can haul 6-7k lbs safely with good tires. Am thinking of converting engine to run on propane --- is this a bad idea? Engine only has 20k miles on it. If I'm high jacking your thread with the question my apologies.
 
I like the goose neck dump with electric brakes, tandem axle (rated 14k), but not for routinely pulling the load you have in mind. I have an old straight 79 F250 4x4 manual (refurbished) with an aluminum flatbed and a 400 modified (total cost under $7.5k) that does what it needs to do -- gets me where I need to go reliably and can haul 6-7k lbs safely with good tires. Am thinking of converting engine to run on propane --- is this a bad idea? Engine only has 20k miles on it. If I'm high jacking your thread with the question my apologies.

I converted my f-350 1987 with a 460, and my 3 axle 1962 Dodge with a 413 industrial, and my f-700 tractor with a 429 industrial to propane. I call it the great failed propane experiment. Propane is a good fuel for cars and very light trucks...back in the 80's and 90's. It's a very clean burning fuel, but it get's lousy mileage and doesn't really provide much in the way of power. It costs way too much to operate a vehicle on these days, by the time you add road fuel taxes to it. It's also hard to get parts and service for, as well as being difficult to find fuel in far away places. Lord help you if you ever run that thing out of fuel somewhere. Add to this, that most engines are not designed with the proper compression ratio for optimum efficiency in burning propane. On gasoline, my f-350 with a flatbed got 9.7 mpg. On propane, it got 7 mpg. And I didn't run dual fuel, so my engine was tuned for propane only.
I'd like to tell you all the horror stories I had with the great failed propane experiment, but their were so many. Propane fuel is good for taxicabs and forklifts, but for commercial hauling.......run the other way
 
I converted my f-350 1987 with a 460, and my 3 axle 1962 Dodge with a 413 industrial, and my f-700 tractor with a 429 industrial to propane. I call it the great failed propane experiment. Propane is a good fuel for cars and very light trucks...back in the 80's and 90's. It's a very clean burning fuel, but it get's lousy mileage and doesn't really provide much in the way of power. It costs way too much to operate a vehicle on these days, by the time you add road fuel taxes to it. It's also hard to get parts and service for, as well as being difficult to find fuel in far away places. Lord help you if you ever run that thing out of fuel somewhere. Add to this, that most engines are not designed with the proper compression ratio for optimum efficiency in burning propane. On gasoline, my f-350 with a flatbed got 9.7 mpg. On propane, it got 7 mpg. And I didn't run dual fuel, so my engine was tuned for propane only.
I'd like to tell you all the horror stories I had with the great failed propane experiment, but their were so many. Propane fuel is good for taxicabs and forklifts, but for commercial hauling.......run the other way

Many thanks for the info --
 
Ford and Chevy both have it. Cummins has been able to pass the EPA's emissions tests without incorporating DEF at this time. They've even built a diesel engine capable of continuous operation in an underground mine with very little emissions. Anywho...

Actually 2012 is the last year Dodge will run no DEF. They have gotten away with it not do to a cleaner running truck but rather by not putting as much hp in there trucks, thus allowing better emissions. For example: 2012 dodge 6.7 Cummins 350 hp and 800 torque, 2012 Ford 6.7 Power Stroke 400 HP and 800 torque, Chevy 6.6 Duramax 397 hp and 765 torque.

Honestly any of the newer one ton trucks are way under rated for capacities. If you are pulling a fifth wheel camper you are exempt from the 26k and over CDL requirement. Most of these large fifth wheels have a weight around 15000 empty and 19000 loaded, plus the weight of the truck and passengers. Now consider many add a 6000-8000 lb boat behind that. Make sure all your equipment is in working order and drive accordingly. Here is the last load I had on the trailer and 01 Duramax. I went down a 6% grade and never had to even touch the brakes just allowed the tow haul mode and the tranny to do the work.
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Mine goes 6800 w/fuel. GVWR is 12,500, but I'm plated for 16K. Pulling with "no problem" is one thing, pulling "legal" is another. I prefer "legal" over DOT violation on my CDL. Just sayin'.

Well here in the great broke state of Illinois you'd get a ticket. Even though you may be plated for 16K, with the vehilcle GVRW at 12,500 its illegal.
 

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