What oil and mixture?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yea, It surprised me too when Randy mentioned it. I'm wasn't trying to bash any oil, but I'm sure if you ask he will confirm what I'm saying.
I can tell you I ran nothing but Redline racing @ 50:1 for quite a few years. It protected well obviously, as everything on the low ends was well lubricated (Had a nice shene of oil), and all showed little wear, but my oldest and most used saws (372/346) had a thick "Hard crusted" carbon deposits that he had a tough time removing while he was doing the port work.
I've used Amsoil also more recently @ 50:1 but the saws I sent that had only seen Amsoil were fine w/no deposits. Also have not likely used Amsoil long enough to form these deposits anyways.
I do typically cut at high altitude 6000-8000 ft and believe that could something to do with it.
Wouldn't have otherwise known as I never had a problem. Also these saws were not running overly rich.
I'm going to try his recommendation as there are few with anywhere near his experience.
Bottom line is "If you like and trust it, then stick with it".

What gasoline were you running?
 
Had to switch to Aspen 2 this year. Burnt 600 Liters so far, works fine once you get used to the smell (smells like burning plastic).

Thats odd - the lack of a bad smell is why I prefer Aspen to the alylate Motomix! :biggrin:
 
I didn't say it smelled bad. It just took me some time to get used to it, after using pump gas for the last 20 years. It does smell better than motomix.

Yes, I use Aspen even though it cost a little more than Motomix (here). :cool2:
 
Yes, I use Aspen even though it cost a little more than Motomix (here). :cool2:

Both are really expensive here. We negotiated a good price on Aspen buying it by 200L barrels (best deal is for 2 barrels at a time). We also use Aspen Bio chain oil (some big customers asked for it). I am not yet convinced by the chain oil. It doesn't lubricate as well as the Q8 oil we used previously.
 
Last edited:
I mix 2½ gallons at a time… 91 octane (ethanol-free) pump gas from the local Hy-Vee gas station at 50:1 with Stihl “orange bottle” stuff (for those of you livin’ outside the heartland, Hy-Vee is a grocery store chain). They’re one of only two stations in the area with premium octane ethanol-free gas; they do enough volume to get fresh delivery every week (the station manager is a friend and one of my gun dealers).

Years ago the Stihl “orange bottle” stuff was 40:1 (that was like 30 years ago?). One day I stopped at the dealer and picked-up a six-pack of the bottles sized for 2½ gallon… when he set them on the counter I told him they were the wrong ones ‘cause they were too small. He pointed out that they were smaller now because Stihl switched to 50:1… and I went with it. My 026 is over 20-years-old and its run nothing but ethanol-free 91/92 octane and Stihl “orange” at 50:1 since the day I opened the box. I’ve only changed the spark plug once in those 20 years… and that was just on principle a couple years ago, the old one was still working (and I still have it as a spare). Both my Stihl leaf blower and weed whip (both close to 20-years-old now) have always run the same fuel/oil mix… and both have the original spark plugs in ‘em.

The fact is both dad and I run 50:1 in all the 2-cycles, even those specifying a different mix… golf carts, boat motors, lawn mowers, snow blowers, scooters, portable pumps, leaf blowers, weed trimmers, you-name-it… one fuel can covers them all. Heck, up at the lake home dad buys 50:1 premixed right at the pump… and pours it in anything and everything requiring gas/oil premix regardless of engine make, model or specification. He has an old gas-powered washing machine up there, out in the shop, used for washing shop rags and such … it has a decal right on it specifying 16:1 mix, yet it has run fine on a steady diet of 50:1 for as long as I can remember.
 
Both are really expensive here. We negotiated a good price on Aspen buying it by 200L barrels (best deal is for 2 barrels at a time). We also use Aspen Bio chain oil (some big customers asked for it). I am not yet convinced by the chain oil. It doesn't lubricate as well as the Q8 oil we used previously.

I never tried that bar oil, but mostly use Husky Veg-Oil (could well be the same?). I try to run some dino bar oil through the saws before storage though..... :msp_wink:

However, apart from the storage issue, the Husky Veg-Oil seems to perform excellent, as it flows easier than dino oil, and less is needed! :msp_smile:
 
Last edited:
I use cheapest gas I can find and used oil from when I change the oil in my truck...... which I do every 13,000 miles or so. :sly::sly:

Sent from my SPH-M930BST using Tapatalk 2
 
Non oxy 91 with klotz R50. Cutting wood never smelt better. I also mix at a 40:1 ratio.

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
I use cheapest gas I can find and used oil from when I change the oil in my truck...... which I do every 13,000 miles or so. :sly::sly:

Sent from my SPH-M930BST using Tapatalk 2

You wouldn't have posted about it I assume, if that was what you really do......:givebeer:
 
Could be when I run out of old truck oil I use stihl synthetic and 91 oct e free (now that I know better) or I just run those expensive cans of pre mix. I dont. Cut as much as I would like so premix works for me most times. I use the green 40/1 tuefuel cans.


You wouldn't have posted about it I assume, if that was what you really do......:givebeer:
 
Got oil??
ujy5u7en.jpg



Sent from my AutoTune carb
 
Last edited:
Well, I run fuel with ethanol in it because that's all there is around here. There is no ethanol free fuel in my area. I also run 87 octane simply because it is fresh. Yea I could run 92 or 93 octane but honestly, how long do you guy's figure the higher octane fuel sits at the station with the price of fuel these days? I don't know anybody the runs premium anymore because of the cost. So the oil I switch to has to be cool with 87 octane.

I can get E free around here but its very pricey. Since I started using Fuel Medic, I don't worry much about the ethanol. I run a cheap dino 2-stroke oil (Lubrimatic) at 32:1. I add 12.5% (1/8) xylene to the raw fuel as a safe and cheap octane boost. At 8:1 ratio I get 91 octane. You can run safely on any fraction xylene you wish and its very easy on rubber. Smells like race gas when you burn it. You can do the same with toluene but its octane rating is lower (114 vs 117) and its 'drier' and evaporates out quicker. Both of these aromatics used to be in pump gas in significant fractions until the mid to late 80's. They were removed because of unburned HC emissions issues (EPA stuff).

Jimbo
 
I can get E free around here but its very pricey. Since I started using Fuel Medic, I don't worry much about the ethanol. I run a cheap dino 2-stroke oil (Lubrimatic) at 32:1. I add 12.5% (1/8) xylene to the raw fuel as a safe and cheap octane boost. At 8:1 ratio I get 91 octane. You can run safely on any fraction xylene you wish and its very easy on rubber. Smells like race gas when you burn it. You can do the same with toluene but its octane rating is lower (114 vs 117) and its 'drier' and evaporates out quicker. Both of these aromatics used to be in pump gas in significant fractions until the mid to late 80's. They were removed because of unburned HC emissions issues (EPA stuff).

Jimbo

By the time you buy the gas,Fuel Medic,and xylene couldn't you just by the E free gas?
 
Back
Top