Which saw, MS361-MS440

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There are enough people hunting the few remaining 440's down that I suspect it is highly plausible that some of the reps have been trying to buy a few back to help a few those dealers that have the ability to move them.

I kind of got lucky on mine... I walked in, saw it on the shelf, and asked if they knew that it was a discontinued saw. I then sheepishly asked if they would drop the price to get it off the shelf. They knocked $50 bucks off and swapped the 20" b/c for a 25" and I walked off with a brand new saw that I didn't need.

I bought my dad a 7900 which is one heck of a nice saw and then when he ran my 361 he really liked it. So I got him a 361 to which he succeeded in completely flooding(I wasn't around). He thought it was a complete piece of junk until I taught him how to start it. In the meantime, however, he had the chance to run my 440 and thinks it is the cat's meow. I'm not sure I'll let him use any of my other saws as it is getting a bit expensive to satisfy him.
 
I bought my dad a 7900 which is one heck of a nice saw and then when he ran my 361 he really liked it. So I got him a 361 to which he succeeded in completely flooding(I wasn't around). He thought it was a complete piece of junk until I taught him how to start it. In the meantime, however, he had the chance to run my 440 and thinks it is the cat's meow. I'm not sure I'll let him use any of my other saws as it is getting a bit expensive to satisfy him.

Sounds like it. Your getting your dad spoiled running all those great saws. It turns into an addiction. I ran my 440 for the 1st time last night and it is the real deal. Jumping from the 260 to the 440 is night and day. I can't imagine what a 660 must run like. :greenchainsaw:
 
260 and 440 makes one of the best combo's

Agreed, with the best performance twins being 5100/7900.

5100 kicks the 260's butt and the 7900 really spanks the 440 (+10cc @ same weight) . However the Stihl twins have paid their dues in the field many times over while the Dolmar twins are still just getting their feet wet.
 
The dealer support for Dolmar is very weak in these parts. Seems the few places that carry them special order them in when desired. Mostly Stihl saws around here with some Huskys mixed in. Not alot of Pro model Huskys either. Seems everyone buys the consumer saws from the big box stores.
 
O.t.

There are enough people hunting the few remaining 440's down that I suspect it is highly plausible that some of the reps have been trying to buy a few back to help a few those dealers that have the ability to move them.

I kind of got lucky on mine... I walked in, saw it on the shelf, and asked if they knew that it was a discontinued saw. I then sheepishly asked if they would drop the price to get it off the shelf. They knocked $50 bucks off and swapped the 20" b/c for a 25" and I walked off with a brand new saw that I didn't need.

I bought my dad a 7900 which is one heck of a nice saw and then when he ran my 361 he really liked it. So I got him a 361 to which he succeeded in completely flooding(I wasn't around). He thought it was a complete piece of junk until I taught him how to start it. In the meantime, however, he had the chance to run my 440 and thinks it is the cat's meow. I'm not sure I'll let him use any of my other saws as it is getting a bit expensive to satisfy him.

Hey B.N. do you mind sharing what exactly he was doing to flood the 361 (and your solution)? I want to avoid making the same mistake if at all possible.
 
Some of these newer saws are a bit more finicky than the older ones.

The old ones you used to set the choke and pull and pull and pull until it started to sputter.

The 361 has a tendency to flood if you don't catch the first sign of "the pop." It can be very subtle.

Either one of mine starts within 3-4 pulls. DO NOT PULL MORE THAN 5-6 OR YOU HAVE FLOODED THEM! I would have the dealer show you a couple of times in person but here is my cold starting procedure...

1) Set the decomp. (Not that you need it to pull this saw over)
2) Set the Lever in the full down position (full choke, throttle)
3) Pull the starter a couple of times watching the decomp.
4) Stop immediately if the decomp pops out or you hear any indication of it firing.
5) If it isn't running at this point, push the lever up one click and it should fire on the next pull. I usually don't use the decomp on this starting pull.

If you flood the saw, pull the plug, clean it off, turn the saw upside down and pull the starter until the cylinder stops spitting fuel. Reinstall spark plug and start the saw in throttle mode without choke.
 
Some of these newer saws are a bit more finicky than the older ones.

The old ones you used to set the choke and pull and pull and pull until it started to sputter.

The 361 has a tendency to flood if you don't catch the first sign of "the pop." It can be very subtle.

Either one of mine starts within 3-4 pulls. DO NOT PULL MORE THAN 5-6 OR YOU HAVE FLOODED THEM! I would have the dealer show you a couple of times in person but here is my cold starting procedure...

1) Set the decomp. (Not that you need it to pull this saw over)
2) Set the Lever in the full down position (full choke, throttle)
3) Pull the starter a couple of times watching the decomp.
4) Stop immediately if the decomp pops out or you hear any indication of it firing.
5) If it isn't running at this point, push the lever up one click and it should fire on the next pull. I usually don't use the decomp on this starting pull.

If you flood the saw, pull the plug, clean it off, turn the saw upside down and pull the starter until the cylinder stops spitting fuel. Reinstall spark plug and start the saw in throttle mode without choke.


Ooh- I've heard reference of using the decomp for the pop, but didn't know it meant WATCHING that in addition to the sound. THANKS for the instructions.

So vs. the new ones, the X60 models are somewhat less forgiving in this respect?
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the X60 models...?

I think these newer more fuel efficient models are a little more finicky with regards to flooding. My experience with older saws is that even though you may flood them, you can either wait a few minutes or take them off choke and crank them a few more times to take care of the problem. If you flood a 361 you are pretty much done without pulling the plug.

That being said I have never had any trouble starting my 361's. Like all saws, new or old, you just need to figure out what its personality is then find the procedure that works best to start that particular saw. I don't think you will have any problem whatsoever with flooding if you understand how that saw runs. Mine have never let me down.

I personally have never flooded mine. It just doesn't happen if you either hear or can see the pop(decomp). My saws regularly start on the 2nd or 3rd pull. I don't think I've ever pulled them more than 6 times.

.... Actually I take that back.... I did once upon a time not get the spark plug boot pushed on correctly.... Not the saw's fault.... Just me being stupid. Quick fix and back up and running.
 
I was just generalizing what I thought were the older models (X60)- 260, 360, 460 etc. So the increased efficiency is a double edged sword- more trouble if you are not careful about flooding.


Like all saws, new or old, you just need to figure out what its personality is then find the procedure that works best to start that particular saw.
O.K. that's kind of scary, but hopefully the dealer will help me figure it out. THanks again.
 

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