Why Klotz?

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Ran the Motul 710 a bit today

Hey y'all,

Ran the Motul 710 for a while today. What I noticed most was MUCH less smoke and less of a burning oil type of smell than I had been having with the Pennzoil. It was the type of day, wet and rainy with a calm wind, where smoke normally hangs low to the ground but there just wasn't enough smoke to cause a problem. My shirt also had much less smell than it normally does. Saw seemed to run fine, couldn't say it ran any better or any worse. Pulled the plug and it seemed cleaner than normal, less oily. The smell was also more pleasant than I remember from the Mobil 2t, was thinking it was the same when I first ran it but it isn't at all.

So far so good...:clap:

Kenny
John 3:16, 17
 
The only bad experiences I've had with any Klotz oils have been with motocross bikes. Most people who have worked on a 2 stroke bike that has run Klotz for very long know what it does to the powervalves and anything else that doesn't experience comustion. It gums it up bad, and can be a pain. That being said, the stuff lubricates very, very well.

That must have been Klotz Benol, or back in the day what people called "green label" Klotz, both of these were pretty much refined and degummed straight castor oil.

The Supertechniplate and R50 have been very clean running in my experience.
 
For what its worth i have sold 174 quarts and 47 pints of r50 so far this year. This is by far my best selling 2 smoke mix. I have ran this stuff w/ cam 2 race fuel (for my honda cr250) in my fs-66, 009l, jred 49sp, and other saws with minimal smoke. Great stuff
 
I run through about 4-8 gal of klotz oil a year (does not include all the other products I use). My recommendations is use the correct oil for your application. And if you don't know which oil is right for you, call Jerid Booth Customer Sales for Klotz @ 260-490-0489 and that is the headquarters in Fort Wayne.
 
Here is a little known, but very nice oil company. I'm running the #455 right now. I'm digging it so far. It is a castor oil, but has been degummed, blends with methanol and has additives to prevent separation. Priced competitively too when I can find it (around 7 bucks a pint).

http://www.blendzall.com/

Up next for me in my oil test is R-50. I have ran super techniplate in the past and really enjoyed it.
 
My conclusion: I'm switching to Supertechniplate when my stock of Mobil 2T runs out. I'm looking forward to the bean smell.
 
I have been using Klotz for over 20 years now and never had any problems with it. I don't use the KL-100 as I don't care for the problems caused by castor. With the synthetics there is no need for castor, that is a carry over from the 30's when that was all they had. KL-200 is all synthetic and has none of the gumming issues you get with KL-100.

Klotz R50 is a good oil, almost as good as KL-200. The website says that it is not compatible with alcohol. In talking with one of the guys at Klotz, that line was inserted for those guys that run methanol fueled 2 cycles. It will not mix with that much alcohol, but will mix with E10 gasoline. But, since I also use Klotz in my 2 cycle and 4 cycle model airplane engines, it has to mix with methanol and nitromethene - which is the reason for the KL-200.

Fog
Gasoline is for washing part, Alcohol is for drinking, and Nitro is for racing...
 
Alright this is what was told to me by a local dealer! Wondering if it is true or not he said[ quote that if you run klotz that u would in time build up residue or carbon behind the rings and eventually rings would not compress anymore and then you would need a rebuild] any truth to that guys i had a banshee and that is the only oil i would run in it they said it was the best u could by!

I say Bull Butter!!!!!!!!!!!!! on your local dealers comment!!!!!


been running it longer than most on here,,,,, never an oil related, or stuck ring problem,, All of my tear downs look great,,, oil on everything,,, well lubricated,,,

:cheers:

It mixes wit Alchohol,,,, That's my reason...

Ditto JJ!!!!!!
 
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KL-100 is what they are calling Super Techniplate and KL-200 is the Original Techniplate. KL-100 is KL-200 with 20% castor in it. After having run engines with castor and pure synthetic, I can see no reason to run anything but pure synthetic. I have heard the same "stuff" that you should run KL-100 in the summer due to the heat - which is a crock, that engine gets hot all year long. I have raced when it was over 120 over the concrete and the air temp was 109 and never used anything but straight synthetic. The sole function of that EPA muffler is to make the engine hot. So, if R50 is working for you stay with it - just like I am staying with the KL-200, just ordered another gallon today.

I would say that RiverRat2 is being too kind to that dealer, in Texas it is still bull "stuff". I would have to question said dealers knowledge of 2 cycle engines and oils. If you ran straight castor I can see that happening - but then you would deserve it too. There isn't anyway that can happen using KL-200 - you will melt the engine down before you get it hot enough to do that. Same with KL-100. Even with the EPA settings you won't see carbon build up. I have run 2 cycles harder than that dealer ever dreamed of and when the engines were torn down, they still looked new an shiny on the inside - no carbon. I sure wouldn't depend on that dealer for any engine work or advice on what to run.

Fog
 
nothing like the smell of burning castor oil
i run supertechniplate in my 4 wheeler, love it, cant beat the smell :D
 
I would say that RiverRat2 is being too kind to that dealer, in Texas it is still bull "stuff". I would have to question said dealers knowledge of 2 cycle engines and oils. If you ran straight castor I can see that happening - but then you would deserve it too. There isn't anyway that can happen using KL-200 - you will melt the engine down before you get it hot enough to do that. Same with KL-100. Even with the EPA settings you won't see carbon build up. I have run 2 cycles harder than that dealer ever dreamed of and when the engines were torn down, they still looked new an shiny on the inside - no carbon. I sure wouldn't depend on that dealer for any engine work or advice on what to run.

Fog

LOLOL!!!! I was just trying to be nice and not curse,,,, yes the teardowns are exteremly clean and as U said no carbon

@ DSRA (Deep South Racing Assoc.) Every one runs the R-50 (Klotz is one of our sponsors) with Sunoco 112 racing gasoline in outboard drag boats and have been for years,,, in fact Klotz is used in all classes We have 5 classes,,, stock, Lake racer, Modified production, pro gas, and unlimited,,,,

The Unlimited Class is allowed to use benol mixed w/R50 or if they choose the Super Techniplate,,,, they run Methanol or the Racing Gas plus Nitromethane Plus Nitrous,,,,,

In my work saws I have usually run R50 with 93 non ethanol octane pump gas,,,

In my hot saws I run the 104 octane sunoco, and 110LL,,,,

However,,, in the last month our county just adopted all fuel to use the 10% ethanol curse:angry::angry::angry::angry::angry:

so I am going to use the 110LL exclusively even in my work saws from here on Out un less I can find the non ethanol 93

I have used the Stihl Ultra and its lubricity is excellent and is very clean/carbon free,,,,

The Mobil 2T is/was great stuff 2!!!!! BTW
 
I've been thinking about using the R-50 but just don't know where to get it around here.:dizzy: So for now I run the stihl ultra.
 

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