Homelite Chainsaws

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Its Oregon Vanguard chain, and I use it if the saw comes with it. I won't buy a new loop, and I would only take a free loop if it was new. You have to file the depth gauge from the inside out, and .025 to .030 seems to be the sweet spot. I have never kept one on long enough to wear one out. Its full chisel, so it cuts well when sharp, supposed to be low kickback, which I don't argue with, but I don't test it either. Someone here even sent me a Vanguard chain on a saw that he had square ground. It just seems/IS a little slower than LPX IMHO. And it also seems that when you get past the 60-70% wear mark on the cutter, it stops cutting freely, and if you take the gauges down more than .030 it gets real grabby. Thats been my experience anyway. Oregon seems to be full of ideas when it comes to chains, as the Power Sharp idea is back from them.

So If I understand this you back file it down with a a round file? It seems like it could be time consuming and a hassle. Do they still sell this stuff?
Thanks for the info on this:clap:
 
My garage door opener auction find yesterday. Pictures are how as I bought it. I have cleaned the exhaust port. Put fuel in it and pulled several times and it seem to run strong:D

The manual oiler works and I can see the auto pump rotating with it running but not sure if it is pumping oil though as it was not slinging it while running it until I pushed the manual button then it was throwing it off the bar.

I really like the way these saws look.

How do you set the depth with a chain like this? Is this a homie chain?

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Tried to rep you but have to spread it around. What you have there is one of the baddest 40cc saws around, I think one of the best Homelite saws made, especially for its size. The auto oilier is under the clutch and is easy to work on, there is ether a hose that runs into the oilier or it goes through the body on the back side of the oilier. Problems could be plugged line or the O ring on the back side may be bad letting air in. I was out cutting fence posts with mine today even hit the ground once or twice and it just kept on ripping through the wood.
 
thank you I did look their but couldn't figure out the cc so thanks fore the info --- The first time I put this saw to wood it about pulled me threw the log with it dang its fun to use with a round grow-end skip tooth chain it don't stop fore anything

wait until you get a 700 series saw 95cc, I have a 770D with a 30"bar and .404 skip tooth, it is one of those saws you have to hang on to or it will leave you at the station.
 
well fellers look like i have joined the club today and here's what i picked up at a yard sale and i put some fresh 40-1 mix in them and primed them a little and they took off like a new one i have to clean the rails up on one of the bars but thats not no big deal though
congrats on the new homies, those saws will definitely try your patience, I found that my fingers are too big, and my temper to hot to work on those saws.:msp_biggrin:
 
Well this is where it gets interesting now. I does run very well and I am going out in the garage in a minute or two. A person called me today and said from another guy he was told I tinker with saws and he pulled some saws out a of a barn that his father in-law had. Does not seem super attached to them but would like one to run if possible.

He hands me a Homelite 240 which looks fair and great compression but boot is missing on the coil wire but the spring is on the sprak plug. He also hands me a Homelite XL auto 113 which has no spark and looks a little beat up but has great compression on pull rope( I want this saw as it looks like the big borther of this Super E-Z)

He wants a saw to cut fence trees down with and the 113 might be more than he needs so the 240 since it has a chain might be his best option. I am hoping I can horse trade him my labor to get the 240 runnig and let me keep the 113. Here is a picture of the 113.

How good of a runner can the 113 be and are they hard to find parts for?

Also his dad maybe was with him and he said they have a big old sears chainsaw that I might be able to get and the guy was going drop off another saw that has a bad piston that I can have as a parts saw(not sure what it is, but free is good:msp_biggrin:)
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The xl 113 is easily chipped to bypass points good runner but make sure flywheel has all its fins or it will run hot in the heat of summer. I have a xl 76 but has a busted mount for the coil so it no runnie.
 
How do you set the depth with a chain like this? Is this a homie chain?

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That chain is junk! I have it on my 394 and its a pain to keep cutting worth a crap. Im glad its almost used up so I can get some real chain. Nice score on the super-ez. If you need any parts for it I might have some!
 
Hey you Homelite guys! Im needing a Coil for a C-5 Homelite, Does anyone know where i could find one? Might do some trading if you have one?
 
Its Oregon Vanguard chain, and I use it if the saw comes with it. I won't buy a new loop, and I would only take a free loop if it was new. You have to file the depth gauge from the inside out, and .025 to .030 seems to be the sweet spot. I have never kept one on long enough to wear one out. Its full chisel, so it cuts well when sharp, supposed to be low kickback, which I don't argue with, but I don't test it either. Someone here even sent me a Vanguard chain on a saw that he had square ground. It just seems/IS a little slower than LPX IMHO. And it also seems that when you get past the 60-70% wear mark on the cutter, it stops cutting freely, and if you take the gauges down more than .030 it gets real grabby. Thats been my experience anyway. Oregon seems to be full of ideas when it comes to chains, as the Power Sharp idea is back from them.

I agree with your sentiment. I grind down the whole top of that raker with the 1/4" wide grinding wheel to .025 or a bit lower. Seems to work okay but I wouldn't buy it on purpose.
 
Vanguard chain is sharpened and adjusted like any other chain, except when filing the depth gauges you MUST go from the inside of the chain out, the same direction you hand file the cutter from. Otherwise, for whatever reason, it doesn't work nearly as well. This means another pass, because if you don't sharpen both directions before lowering the gauges, it won't be right. Don't worry about rounding the gauge off, you don't have to. There's a witness mark on the gauge and all the filing is supposed to be done in that area. After you've sharpened it, if it doesn't feed into the wood itself, you need to take some more off the gauges.
Its not junk, but its not the best saw chain IMHO.
 
What are the carb settings for a hommie 8800 or Deere 550? It seems like I have to turn my L 1.5 to 2 turns to get it to idle then the H is too rich
 
I picked up a little gem today and emptied the gas out of the tank and it was a bright red color. It looked cool but smelt bad even the smoke stinks, I can't get the smell off my hands. Any idea what 2 stroke oil it is?
 
Ok here it is I had to wait 2 weeks to scrape up the $50 to haul it home, emptied old gas put in new gas checked for spark, good to go, pulled muffler P&C are excellent put it back together gave it a snort of fuel and away it went, now starts on 2 pull cold. One draw back I think, it has a 3/8 sprocket on it, I am used to .404 on these size and vintage saws.
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Is there a reason this saw seems stronger or at least as strong as my 770D even thought the 770 has a 10cc advantage?
 
Ok here it is I had to wait 2 weeks to scrape up the $50 to haul it home, emptied old gas put in new gas checked for spark, good to go, pulled muffler P&C are excellent put it back together gave it a snort of fuel and away it went, now starts on 2 pull cold. One draw back I think, it has a 3/8 sprocket on it, I am used to .404 on these size and vintage saws.
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Is there a reason this saw seems stronger or at least as strong as my 770D even thought the 770 has a 10cc advantage?

Good looking saw...its amazing that we have any old saws around with the fueling instructions like that.
 
I picked up a little gem today and emptied the gas out of the tank and it was a bright red color. It looked cool but smelt bad even the smoke stinks, I can't get the smell off my hands. Any idea what 2 stroke oil it is?

sounds like you had old homelite mix in it or farm gas with the die in it Iv ran across both
 
C9 Homie

[video]http://youtu.be/ZGQywDngwDc[/video]

Well I got bored so I took the sprocket off the 770 and put it on the C9, also put on the 28" hard nose bar and chain and put it in some wood. After the video I did some more tuning on the carb and it is not running quite as rich. I thought it might be stronger than the 770 but I was wrong the 770 has it beat. Not to shabby for a junk pile saw, all I did was replace the gas and spark plug, I haven't even cleaned it up yet.
 
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