Dedicated firewood saw:50 vs. 70cc?

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I've seen a lot of firewood cut with a 50cc saw, & I agree with gink a good running 50 saw will cut your fire wood, and it's lighter to handle, all comes down to how big of wood you mostly cut & how much money you want to spend. In this forum & me included we all like power, but I cut a lot of fire wood with a ported husky 359 I also have a 371, but the 359 does most everything I need of it. You always need a variety of saws.:)
 
The idea that porting makes a 50cc saw into a 70cc saw is severely flawed. And
i have a ported 50cc saw.
I have one also and it beats local farmer 372's, consistently in 14 inch and under,and so do you.

If I was a faller in in 16 and under hard and 20 and under soft wood a ported 346 or 5100 would be in my sights.



Could they take the beating for a season??? I don't know but my back would thank me even if I had to buy two
 
Ok, whats everyones take? based on the assumption that your cutting wood with a average size of 16".
I am in the 70cc camp.

I haven't read a single reply to this thread yet, but I'd say if it's 16-inch average diameter hardwood it better be 60-70cc, especially since a 16-inch average means you'll be getting some bigger.

If it's spruce/pine/fir, or "soft" hardwoods like aspen, a 50cc saw is plenty for those diameters, IMO.
 
Finally resurrected my 2095 today and 50 & 70 cc saws are too slow after running a tank through that.:censored:

That got me too! I finally ran a 70cc saw for the first time weeks ago, and I had regained my appreciation for the 385. After running the 385, I felt anything under it didn't have enough power for the wood I was cutting. Same goes with my 362xp, I thought to myself, when am I going to use it now, maybe just as a grab and go saw. Lean the hell out of it, then maybe it will please me! :laugh:
 
That got me too! I finally ran a 70cc saw for the first time weeks ago, and I had regained my appreciation for the 385. After running the 385, I felt anything under it didn't have enough power for the wood I was cutting. Same goes with my 362xp, I thought to myself, when am I going to use it now, maybe just as a grab and go saw. Lean the hell out of it, then maybe it will please me! :laugh:

Yeah the big saws sure heap the chips pretty quick.:greenchainsaw:
 
so i went to the woods today to play saw.

i don't get real serious about production on sundays, but i might do a little work on accident.

took a 42, 50, and 60cc saw with me.

used the 50 doing some brush clearing/maintenance type work. just as easy to swing and my 42.

then got to the "serious stuff" of rip/noodling some big hickory previously crosscut.

really really wanted to dig in with the 60, but the chain was dull :censored::censored::censored: whoops. so i ran the 42 for a while, and then tried the 50. chain wasn't great on the 50. right back to the 42-muff modded by me.

the 42 ruled the day and rocked the hickory and made a metric cubic ton of noodles.

so there. i like cc's as much as anybody, but proper chain ruled the day.

take (at least) two saws always is my rule.
 
so there. i like cc's as much as anybody, but proper chain ruled the day.

take (at least) two saws always is my rule.

In the time you spent juggling saws you could probably have kissed a chain with a file and had your fun to boot.
 
Cutting with a dull chain is a pretty useless endeavor. If I want to get a little work done at a relaxed pace I take a saw with semi chisel on it, run it for 5 minutes, split it up run the saw a few more minutes then finish splitting and hauling and call it a day.
 
In the time you spent juggling saws you could probably have kissed a chain with a file and had your fun to boot.

i hit that "new" chain on the 60, but didn't have time to do it up proper. it came with the bar and had obviously been run until ultra dull. my file was the first it has ever seen. one good shop session and it'll be fine.

these short days you know.

now i have a cylinder head offa log-splitter number 7 (not mine) to "hand mill" flatter. flat enough for the gasket to be functional you know. gotta keep my log-splitter loaner guy happy.

takes no time to juggle. just put down/pick up. done. filing sans vice is much slower. gotta carve me up a stump out there. yeah--tha's the ticket, stump vice in my woods. putting that on the list.

and i just threw that in with the mix if stuff that's going on here as so many folks get all tore up about brand names or cc's or mods---before they're fluent in proper chainage.
 
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Sure I do too! but this thread was about 16" and less and thats what I posted about! And most of those logas were 16" and less and I would make a good sized bet a 372 wouldn't have cut any more or any faster with what I took. I really never cut to many trees over 20", very rare if I do! The largest I've ever cut was a 4' ash and no the 5100 isn't going to like that very well, but I bet I could do it with it:)

Gink, I said In my post I cut alot of stuff 24-30 inches. You said above sure I do to!
Then you said I really never cut to many trees over 20" very rare if I do!

Thats two opposites!

Like I said Again , If all I cut was small stuff like in you pic a 5100 would be okay!!!!

And Ill take your bet that a 372 wouldn't have cut anymore or any FASTER!

In fact Ill just bet you that 372, remember you said ANY FASTER.

Just Pm me and Ill give you my address to send the 372 to, make sure you insure it!
 
Gink, I said In my post I cut alot of stuff 24-30 inches. You said above sure I do to!
Then you said I really never cut to many trees over 20" very rare if I do!

Thats two opposites!

Like I said Again , If all I cut was small stuff like in you pic a 5100 would be okay!!!!

And Ill take your bet that a 372 wouldn't have cut anymore or any FASTER!

In fact Ill just bet you that 372, remember you said ANY FASTER.

Just Pm me and Ill give you my address to send the 372 to, make sure you insure it!

Okay the first part was me agreeing that a 5100 is not suitable for 24"-30" wood but going back and reading that I can see where I should have said that differntly.

Now on the 372 I'm not sure what your trying to bet, but in 16" and less I would take that bet as long as its a stock 372, and for the record I don't own a 372 so your screwed on that:)

Here is the time sheet at the last GTG in Indiana,

46-55cc 9X9 Basswood
1) Frank (gink) 1.94 5100
2) Gink 2.0 5100
3) Gink 2.03 5100
4) Gink 2.07 5100

5) Brad 2.12 346
6) Ericjeeper 2.12 346
7) Brad 2.16 260
8) Ericjeeper 2.22 346
9) EJ 2.31 346
10) 2.87 346

66-75cc 9X9 Basswood
1) Andyshine 1.50 372
2) Andy 1.56
3) Brad 1.91 372BB <-----modded saws
4) Brad 1.97 372BB
5) Owen 3.22 441
6) Banshee 3.47 272xp <----- Stock saws
7) Stephen 3.29 (saw???)
8) Banshee 3.47 372xp
 
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MOWOOD CHOPPER I agree, we don't have any bass wood here that I know of, but we cut wood every day weather permitting from around October 15th until March and have for years. I don't have the time or patience to play around with a 50cc saw when time counts, we cut oak, mostly seasoned some green and don't take the time to touch up our chain every couple of ricks. With us having a mill and a lathe we have a couple of modded saws, but are on the conservative side, they have to stay dependable and be ready for use. I don't see a heavily modded 50cc saw holding up to the use that we give our saws.
We've tried the smaller saw route in the past, and they are great for the homeowner and guy who cuts wood for himself, we've tried 29 suoers, 034s,
028's, 032s, with the 361 and CS156 being used mostly for wood 16" and smaller and the 660 being used for 16" and up. I've never timed a cut but it sure as hell seems like the 660 will cut small stuff faster than the 361 with chains of equal sharpness, you can just put an unbelievable amount of pressure on the 660 and its just eats wood were you could easily stall a 50 cc saw. The 5100 is a fine saw as is the 346 and others in this class, but there is no replacement for displacement in modern saws, run 8 tooth rim sprockets on the 361 and CS156 and a 9 tooth on the 660. As I said before for the dedicated wood cutter that cuts 30 to 50 cords or more a year a person is better to step up to the 372, 441,460 class of saw. This is one hole in our saw line up we are going to fill soon, I don't think I'd use the 361 much if I had a 441. If I were going to own only two saws it would probably be a 260/346 and a 372/441 or possibly a 7900 because of its weight.
We choose to run saws with long track records of stellar performance as we don't have time to screw around with down equipment, the CS156 was a gamble because of price, the EFCO made saws are a nice surprise, it has held up great, we won't touch it until the warranty is up. We have been calling our local HD to try to find a bargain 6401 to put a big bore kit on to try a Dolmar. There's just none in our immediate area, the closest dealer is 75 miles away. It's one thing to cut timed cookies and another to go production cut, the expectations are different, even the AS saw modders will tell you that, you can always use a big saw to cut little wood, but its a hell of a challenge to cut big wood with a little saw.
 
So how many full cords do you cut in a season? Seems from looking at your sig that your splitter would be the bottle neck if your cutting everyday and not a saw.:)

Whatever works for each individual is fine with me, your not going to convince me and I'm not going to convince you, and it doesn't matter, to each his own and I do use big saws, my only firewood saw for a while was a 7900 and I probably wouldn't really use a stock 5100 or 346 much, but this little 5100 runs very good, I don't cut Basswood for firewood either but I cut a lot of dead standing Red Elm and it cuts it very nicley too. For 16" and under wood it is my go to saw, no question about it, and until you actually run that saw you don't know how well it runs, it surprised me :cheers:
 
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