New P&C Break in Period

[drgnarr]

I have heard many different things about breaking in a new P&C, but today was something a bit different:

At the local shop I was told that you should not run any synthetic and or synthetic blend oil through your saw for at least the first 10 tanks of gas!

I was also told that you should not run the saw full throttle for the first 2 tanks of gas

Any justification to these statements?

Thanks

 

[Fish]

No.

Won't comment on the synthetic part, because it really doesn't matter.

 

[Rookie1]

When you buy a brand new Stihl,Husky whatever do they say run slow or no syn. til broke in. I dont think so. I would run it like your going to run it. I wouldnt abuse it,but I dont think it needs to be babied.

 

[Evan]

run it like its 20 years old. if you baby it, itl be a baby

 

[DK_stihl]

Throttle

You can operate at full throttle while cutting, just not full throttle off load...

 

[Evan]

they say no more then 10 second wot no load. same goes for broken in saws

 

[Fish]

You can operate at full throttle while cutting, just not full throttle off load...

Any respectable Stihl dealer runs that baby wide open for a minute or two, until they see bar oil eventually sling off that dry bar and chain......

 

[Evan]

i surely hope it doesnt take a minute or two to sling oil off the bar. couple seconds and she out have signs of oil

 

[Jtheo]

This is from the instruction manual for a new 361.
A factory machine should not be run at high revs, full throttle off load for the first 3 tank fillings.

All moving parts have to bed in during the break in period.

New cars or trucks should not be put on synthetic until they have 9000 miles or so, or the rings will not seat. I had to experience this since I did not believe the service manager.

I tend think that the same principal would apply in chain saw for the break in and the rings seat, so I do not use synthetic for the first 5 tanks of fuel mix.

I have seen dealers start a new saw and rip it wide open. This goes against the factory recommendation.

Now, any time I buy a new saw, I take the saw with me, tanks dry, and I start and break in the saw with what I believe the correct way.

Anyone else is free to break in their new saws the way that they choose.

 

[Fish]

Not trying to argue, but you actually let a saw idle for 3 tankfulls??

 

[Fish]

i surely hope it doesnt take a minute or two to sling oil off the bar. couple seconds and she out have signs of oil

Dry, new saw, no. The oilers do not suck air that well, and there is a lot of air in there...

Revving with the bar and chain on new, and it can take a little while.
Sparks fly off during this process.

When you are a mechanic, and the dealer tells you to prep a new saw for sale, he doesn't want you wasting any time. Run it until it starts slinging oil,
make sure it idles, and put a tach on it at high revs.

 

[Jtheo]

No, I don't let it idle for 3 tanks, I just don't run full throttle out of the cut, and do not use synthetic for the first 5 tanks.

After that, I put it on Stihl Ultra for the rest of it's natural life.

I am not saying anyone else is wrong, this is just the way that I do it, based in part on the owners manual, and in part from experience.

 

[Fish]

So cutting wood is OK? Any size?
How do you make sure the mixture is OK?

So cutting 12 inch logs is OK?
Or just 3 inch branches for the first 3 tanks.
Just trying to grasp the rationality of this.

Do you also let it idle 5 minutes before shutting down?

 

[kevlar]

Boy some of you guys have some funny ideas on breaking in new saws! As a dealer we pour in premium fuel mixed with synthetic ultra and I run it up like fish said, making sure it is slinging oil,tuned slightly rich and yes some saws will take few minutes but I try and be brief.Synthetic two cycle oils can be run in a new saw without any break in problems in fact it is the oil of choice for the 4 mix engines. Run that new saw like you are going to run it they don't have a mid speed jet so that means idle or full throttle.

p.s. we cannot let a saw walk out the door without running it up so unless you buy your saws at home depot they will be run up.

 

[thomas72]

Search break in and you will get 100 different correct answers.

 

[Fish]

Search break in and you will get 100 different correct answers.

100?

Nah, I insist on my saws being ungassed/oiled, or I will go elsewhere, and
I have bought 100+ this year alone.....

I just do not by the break in, warm up, cool down, grandpa told me so,
reasons.

I also outlined how the majority of Stihl chainsaws are brought into this
world, spanked by a fat redneck mechanic..............

No worries, I am just trying to edjumacate youse guys.......

 

[mountainlake]

Just don't make a long cut in a huge log,they do make more heat untill broken in. And make sure they aren't too lean. Steve

 

[Evan]

"spanked by a fat redneck mechanic"
these probly run the best

 

[Jtheo]

OK, I give.

There are guys here that know much more than me.

I did quote from the instruction manual on my new 361 about a break in period, and the dealer was kind enough to let me leave without starting the saw.

To get a grasp: Nothing out of the ordinary as to the size of the wood. 3 inch for the 211. Trees get the 361 or 7900. I do not lean on the saw when it is new, and no WOT out of the cut. No synthetic until I believe the rings are seated.

This is just me. Everyone should do as they please.

However, if I buy a new saw, and the dealer tells me that it can not go out the door until he runs it ?

Fine, he can keep the saw, and I will keep my money, and no, I do not have to go to Home depot to buy my saws.

Kind of hard to believe that a dealer will turn down $619.00 for a 361 just because he does not get to start the saw before I leave. In this economy? Get real.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Jtheo]

Not trying to argue, but you actually let a saw idle for 3 tankfulls??

I did not say that, read it again please.