New P&C Break in Period

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No, just curious as to why.

I have no idea if it makes a difference, but the majority of Stihl saws go
out the way I outlined.

But if someone wants to take the 3 tank "high road", I am just curious how
"high" it actually is....

So, you do not "idle" the saw for 3 tanks, but you will cut wood.
I am just curious about the 3 tank break in "thingy"
 
I pour a cup full of straight 93 pump gas in, new, unstarted. Run it wide open until it runs out of gas. Refill with 50:1 and VOILA!! Rings seated, saw is not new anymore!!!:deadhorse:
 
If you do not run it up to WOT out of the cut, how do you make sure the H needle isn't set too lean? The first thing I do when I fire up a saw is let it idle for a min to warm up. The second thing I do is run it up to WOT for a few sec at a time and listen for the "burble" and watch for the oil spraying off the bar. If I hear burble and see oil then I know the saw is ready to cut wood. If not I shut her down and fix the problem.
 
If you do not run it up to WOT out of the cut, how do you make sure the H needle isn't set too lean? The first thing I do when I fire up a saw is let it idle for a min to warm up. The second thing I do is run it up to WOT for a few sec at a time and listen for the "burble" and watch for the oil spraying off the bar. If I hear burble and see oil then I know the saw is ready to cut wood. If not I shut her down and fix the problem.

Good post. Some people think there is a VooDoo dance you have to do to get a new saw going right. Fire it up, adjust l jet, idle, then let her rip as you adjust the h jet, no longer than necessary. When you are satisfied with your adjustment (it may take a few times doing this), you are done.

Piss on this idea of "no syn oil till 3-5-10 tanks" or whatever, its bull mularkey. If it was a problem, it would be recommended otherwise by major 2 cycle manufacturers.
 
Leave the synthetic crap out of it.

Are you all saying that burying the chainsaw in a 12 inch log is "easier" on a
new saw, than whatever the hell we are talking about..

The supposition is that someone could run a new saw for 3 tanks without
actually using it..............

And I am not an idiot, no one does that.

Or do they.........................................??????????????????????????????????
 
well i wouldnt particularly want a brand new saw that the dealer held WOT out of the box for 2 min straight. i will not run a brand new saw WOT out of the cut for more than 3 seconds. now i meant exactly what i said and nothing less or more, just incase anyone wants to try and "fish" for different meanings or assume im suggesting anything. and i did say "I" anyone else is welcome to buy whatever saw they want and any dealers are welcome to do whatever they want. but if its me i will be walking out the door with a saw that hasnt been started by the dealer. period.
 
Well, the 3 tank "thingy" is right out of the instruction manual on the 361 that was in my first reply.

Stihl is saying do not run WOT out of the cut for the first 3 tanks because the saw is new and the parts need to bed in.

That makes sense to me, and the way I do it might not be right for some one else, but it works for me, and I haven't blown one up or scored a piston yet.:cheers:
 
Leave the synthetic crap out of it.

Are you all saying that burying the chainsaw in a 12 inch log is "easier" on a
new saw, than whatever the hell we are talking about..

The supposition is that someone could run a new saw for 3 tanks without
actually using it..............

And I am not an idiot, no one does that.

Or do they.........................................??????????????????????????????????

okay the rpms in the wood will be lower than wot out of wood. ever wonder why when you buy a new car they suggest you dont go over 55 for 500 miles? the engine running at WOT out of wood isnt good when its not broke in
 
okay the rpms in the wood will be lower than wot out of wood. ever wonder why when you buy a new car they suggest you dont go over 55 for 500 miles? the engine running at WOT out of wood isnt good when its not broke in

So higher rpms with no load, is much worse than lower rpm's with a major
load, or a moderate load, or whatever??

So revving a saw to the no-load rpms to tune it is bad, and must be done
after some customer has cut 3 tankfulls of wood?

Just trying to nail this turd on the deck.......
 
For what its worth, when I bought my saws, I asked the dealer about break-in period. He told me that stihl now says to take them to the woods and run them. When the logging companies buy a new saw do they seat them in, no they take them to the woods and run them on synthetic oil. Break them in like you are going to run them. I don't baby mine while they are breaking in, but then again i'm not easy on them.
 
So higher rpms with no load, is much worse than lower rpm's with a major
load, or a moderate load, or whatever??

So revving a saw to the no-load rpms to tune it is bad, and must be done
after some customer has cut 3 tankfulls of wood?

Just trying to nail this turd on the deck.......

well you must have forgotten my post prior to that. yes i do believe the saw running at lower rpms with a moderate load is better for it than to be ran WOT out of wood for more than 3 seconds. i allow myself 3 seconds for the tuning process. apperently you think its good for a brand new saw thats not broke in to be run at wot for 2 minutes straight? just trying to figure out what the hell you actually are talking about cause your on a roll, picking little peices here and there out of storys and rearranging the details to fit in to whatever your thinking. why does stihl put such "nonsense" of not running your saw at WOT out of wood for the first 3 tanks of gas? you think stihl wants all there saws broke in incorrectly so they run like ####? explain yourself fully or not at all. or run for president.
 
For what its worth, when I bought my saws, I asked the dealer about break-in period. He told me that stihl now says to take them to the woods and run them. When the logging companies buy a new saw do they seat them in, no they take them to the woods and run them on synthetic oil. Break them in like you are going to run them. I don't baby mine while they are breaking in, but then again i'm not easy on them.

the dealer told you that... and we all know how truthfull ALL dealers can be... why would the manuals they send with new saws contridict that statement? for what its worth....
 
Well, if we have to keep this going, it seems that the Stihl engineers believe that WOT new out of the box not under load, which I take to mean in the cut, is just not the best thing to do with a new saw.

They go on to say for 3 tanks of fuel mix. While cutting wood of course, not idling.

Using, but not abusing.

After that I guess, let it rip and expect the saw to break in at 10 to 15 tanks.

Of cutting wood that is, not idling.

That is in the Stihl owners manual for the 361.

But I would do it my way even if it wasn't.

And I do not take my saws back to the dealer to be tuned. But that's just me.:cheers::deadhorse:

And now I've got a Braves baseball game to watch. It's been fun guys.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
For someone to say that he doesn't "run" the saw for 3 tank fulls means
"what"????

Does cutting a log involve putting a load on the saw??

What moron would rev a saw at full rpms with no load for any length of time???

My question is, obviously, how does one run a saw on break in??????

Rev it to 6,000 and lay it on a Silver Maple log, and make sure it revs no
higher???????

Revving at 10,000 in an oak log is hard on a saw, likely harder than it running
13,500 no load.

Just trying to get you guys to lay this out, not because your dad always
said it.
 
For someone to say that he doesn't "run" the saw for 3 tank fulls means
"what"????

Does cutting a log involve putting a load on the saw??

What moron would rev a saw at full rpms with no load for any length of time???

My question is, obviously, how does one run a saw on break in??????

Rev it to 6,000 and lay it on a Silver Maple log, and make sure it revs no
higher???????

Revving at 10,000 in an oak log is hard on a saw, likely harder than it running
13,500 no load.

Just trying to get you guys to lay this out, not because your dad always
said it.

Dude, come on, you are splitting hairs now. Let the fools be fools...:cheers:
 
well you must have forgotten my post prior to that. yes i do believe the saw running at lower rpms with a moderate load is better for it than to be ran WOT out of wood for more than 3 seconds. i allow myself 3 seconds for the tuning process. apperently you think its good for a brand new saw thats not broke in to be run at wot for 2 minutes straight? just trying to figure out what the hell you actually are talking about cause your on a roll, picking little peices here and there out of storys and rearranging the details to fit in to whatever your thinking. why does stihl put such "nonsense" of not running your saw at WOT out of wood for the first 3 tanks of gas? you think stihl wants all there saws broke in incorrectly so they run like ####? explain yourself fully or not at all. or run for president.

Forgotten????

You don't read too well either.
 

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