661R Fever ...it's here!!!

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faster - but just removing the baffle proved to be slower on both the 461 and 660

Possibly on yours, yes........... but IIRC, there were still other variables that should have been considered in your testing.

The best way to tell for sure is to do back to back to back testing with an autotune or M-tronic saw and the same chain

Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2
Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2
Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2

Then the results will show a trend this way.
 
This might make sense, except when I take off any of my mufflers and look inside. Since I have no baffles, and my muffler exit isn't white but cruddy and gooey black, I am willing to wager that my saws run pretty cool. I have zero carbon build up on the piston crown, no carbon on the rings, and almost a mirror finish in the exhaust port

Like this ? This is my 660 i mill with . 32 to 1 h1r 440 hybrid logs 071.jpg 440 hybrid logs 069.jpg 440 hybrid logs 068.jpg
 
I am switching my 661 over to .404 and the Stihl site shows 104 DL for a 36" setup for the 661 and 108Dl for the 088.
I am telling it here first, 104DL is too small and will NOT fit, 108 is too long and will not tighten the chain, I believe the 661 needs 106DL to have the adjuster work properly, will know for sure when the presets come in.
 

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EGGFRIGGINZACKARY !!!!
I have some better screening for you if you want it, same as the second pic in post #522
That's screen Randy installed ,i think it comes from a noodle strainer out of the kitchen ,has a larger mesh then the stock stuff .I keep screens because chunks of sawdust and chips like to fall in there if i do not have them ,keeps cridders from crawling in there also .
 
Possibly on yours, yes........... but IIRC, there were still other variables that should have been considered in your testing.

The best way to tell for sure is to do back to back to back testing with an autotune or M-tronic saw and the same chain

Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2
Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2
Test cut with muffler #1
Test cut with muffler #2

Then the results will show a trend this way.


I would argue 2 points

1. considering I tune everything with the same method and I get varying results on different combos. Then it makes sense I would get a varying result with the muffler removed. Which I did.

Put another way - If I tuned every combo with the same method and the muffler removed combo is that good, then it should have showed a better time than the other combos. I may not have been the ideal tune for it (debatable) however if it was that good then it should have at least beat the others.

Quite honestly it actually felt more powerful, sounded better, seemed to rev nicer. But it just didn't deliver. This is the same result I experienced with the 461. I think it's just how loud it is that gives you a placebo effect of more power.

2. It's not that hard to tune these things. Most of the adjustment is in the idle. And my understanding is the idle adjustment does actually deliver a large percentage of the total fuel through out the travel of the throttle.

The accepted norm on the idle is always 2700. The L doesn't really change more then a C-hair. And the H... on everyone of them was a C-hair between 13100 and 13200 ...four stroking at either one. I guess one could do a mini test before hand and gauge time with 13200 and then 13000 and see which is better and if you get a better result with 13k go to 12800. But honestly, while it would be interesting, based on all my testing, I don't see even a 1 sec gain coming from that fine tuning.

I mean man when I was putting the 461 up against the 660 I was fine tuning and the most I could ever get was .6 seconds. I mean it just got to a point where it was like "this is fckin stupid".

Which 044 is running hotter ?
Dont need a temp gun when you have witness marks

If your running 50 to 1 I would agree. If your running 40 to one and it's a non ported saw. I would argue that 40 to 1 would actually run hotter.

Stock saw - less compression - oil is less displaced - oil burns hotter.
ported saw - more compression - oil is more displaced - thus requires more oil for lube - burns same as 50 to 1 in stock saw.


I am switching my 661 over to .404 and the Stihl site shows 104 DL for a 36" setup for the 661 and 108Dl for the 088.
I am telling it here first, 104DL is too small and will NOT fit, 108 is too long and will not tighten the chain, I believe the 661 needs 106DL to have the adjuster work properly, will know for sure when the presets come in.

cannon bar - shows 104 dl's as well on their s1 3003 12mm mount 404 36" bar.
 
It's not that hard to tune these things. Most of the adjustment is in the idle. And my understanding is the idle adjustment does actually deliver a large percentage of the total fuel through out the travel of the throttle. .
The idle delivers fuel under all situations, but at WOT, its minimal, as proven by both high and low adjustment needles @ WOT

But honestly, while it would be interesting, based on all my testing, I don't see even a 1 sec gain coming from that fine tuning.

I mean man when I was putting the 461 up against the 660 I was fine tuning and the most I could ever get was .6 seconds. I mean it just got to a point where it was like "this is fckin stupid". .
I couldn't agree more, but some dudes die over that 1/2 second




If your running 50 to 1 I would agree. If your running 40 to one and it's a non ported saw. I would argue that 40 to 1 would actually run hotter.

Stock saw - less compression - oil is less displaced - oil burns hotter.
ported saw - more compression - oil is more displaced - thus requires more oil for lube - burns same as 50 to 1 in stock saw..

Some oils do not burn enough to contribute to combustion, like Bel Ray H1R
 
well the edge is a little bent still from the mishap,but i have that hammer i was talking about earlier...........

cannon bar tip 008.JPG

the saw shop did not have a black cannon one ,but they had a grey oregon tip ,it is the same thing ,just different color
cannon bar tip 009.JPG

pop a new rivot in ,and smack it with that hammer against the flat part of the vise till it is flush ,and we are good to go .
cannon bar tip 012.JPG cannon bar tip 013.JPG

cannon bar tip 014.JPG
 
well in the name of CAD science, I plunked down $60+tax for a new 661 muffler to test on.

kinda peeved it comes in the white I like the gold color they come with on the saw.

20zdz5w.jpg


2irslr8.jpg
 
well in the name of CAD science, I plunked down $60+tax for a new 661 muffler to test on.

kinda peeved it comes in the white I like the gold color they come with on the saw.

20zdz5w.jpg


2irslr8.jpg
I always beadblast new mufflers ,then throw them on top of the wood stove to warm them up ,then paint them when hot with high heat paint ,the heat makes the paint stick better ,when you paint them cold it seems to burn off easier ,the stuff they come with seems to bubble off real fast and look ugly
 
well in the name of CAD science, I plunked down $60+tax for a new 661 muffler to test on.

kinda peeved it comes in the white I like the gold color they come with on the saw.

NICE .............. I recommend you make the opening like this, PM me your addy and I will send you the same screen
 

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I always beadblast new mufflers ,then throw them on top of the wood stove to warm them up ,then paint them when hot with high heat paint ,the heat makes the paint stick better ,when you paint them cold it seems to burn off easier ,the stuff they come with seems to bubble off real fast and look ugly
The 661 muffler is stainless steel
 
So my MS661c arrived back at the dealer in Texas today and accourding to UPS, they picked up my replacement, the MS661R today at 5:00pm. It is showing a delivery date for Monday, which should work as my "weekend" starts Monday morning. Any advice on how to break it in? Should I baby it, or just run it like I would any other saw? How about oil ratios and ethenol content? Should I buy the premixed $8 quarts from the dealer for the first few tanks?
 
I think that the advice Stihl gives is correct, don't run max RPMs w/o a load on a new saw, but break the saw in at WOT with the bar buried in the wood.

I always used to run 50:1, but this site has convinced me to go to 40:1. I also use high test (93), but doing that gets a lot of debate. The manual for my 362 said to use 89 or greater, and that higher octane helps it run cooler (a good thing).

Enjoy that new saw, should be nice.
 

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