Need Help Sharpening 0.325 Pitch

I'm having trouble sharpening the .0325 pitch chain that's on the 346XPw that I picked up a few months ago.

The 5/32 file I'm using (recommended for 0.325 and supplied by Bailey's) seems to fit too deeply in the gullet. I'd estimate that almost 50% of the file's radius is in contact with the cutter surface, which leaves a very high bevel angle, and leaves the cutting edge and working point thin and weak.

To decrease the bevel angle, I'm assuming I need to either raise the file (I typically use a roller guide to maintain the filing plane) or use a larger diameter file. By comparison, I reckon the 7/32 file I use on my 3/8 chains is in contact with about 35-40% of the cutter surface, and leaves an acceptable bevel. What do you guys use on your 0.325 pitch chains?

Also, while we're on the subject, what size file should I use on my Picco-Micro chain that's on my Stihl pole pruner?

Thanks in advance for the help.

I use a 3/8 file for 34LG and 21LP. When the chain is about dead I go to 5/32.

I use 3/16th, then 5/32 as the cutter gets smaller

are you running chisel or semi?

Chisel ( and especially the hopped up 346) can handle a fair bit of a hook to the cutter, so filing deep is ok. About 70% of the diameter of the file, not radius should be above the cutter.

7/32 or 13/64 just seem too big.

5/32 on the picco

Whoops I meant 3/16, not 3/8

Whew! Thanks Husky. I use a 1/4" file on my 1/2" chain.

Yup, what Rog said.
3/16 file for the .325 chain. I've never swapped down to the 11/64 file when the teeth get shorter, too close in size and I'd get the different sizes confused. I've never had a problem with the file digging too deep into the tie straps, either.

I use the 5/32 on 3/8 lo pro (climbing saw)
3/16 on .325
7/32 on full size 3/8

There is enough difference to see and grab the right file for the right size chain.

Much Improvement!

I dug through my files and found a single 3/16 that probably came with the roller guide when I bought the saw. I must've inadvertently switched to the 5/32 when I placed the last order with Bailey's and told them what I had for chain. I resharpened and burned a couple tanks this evening cutting both soft and hard woods and the cutters weren't at all tender as previously noted.

Thanks for the advice, and happy cutting.

P.S. The Tree Farm is hosting another chainsaw training workshop on December 7 (basically Level II CLP training). Anyone want a drop by with their souped-up hot saws to scare the local Maineiacs?

I just re-read your original post and realized no one addressed the power pruner chain. Use a 5/32, same as the 3/8 low pro.

Power Pruner

rbtree handled it, let me know that's what my 5/32 files are for...

Thanks again.

Then why would oregon say to use 5/32 file for .325 LG chain I wonder. I was kinda wondering the same thing, I thought the 5/32 file seemed a bit small myself.

Originally posted by daveb
Then why would oregon say to use 5/32 file for .325 LG chain I wonder. I was kinda wondering the same thing, I thought the 5/32 file seemed a bit small myself.

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The chart I have in front of me shows a recommended 4.5mm file for 33-34-35LG. The 3/16" file = 4.8mm and 5/32" = 4.0mm.

I just recieved a loop of LG for evaluation, and I am looking at it now. The teeth seem a little too low of a profile to use a 3/16" without digging into the tie straps, and the 5/32" seems too small. Oh well, I guess I'll have to figure it out. Never seen a .325 chain that didn't use a 3/16" file before.

Hi Brian, although the 3/18 file is slightly larger(~.012) than the recommended 4.5mm file, it will work fine. Probably better than the 5/32 file which would give you more of an unsupported working corner, ie: more hook. I don`t think that cutting into the tie straps to facilitate normal sharpening will have any appreciable effect on the chain, look what the racers do when they dogbone one, but you will want to go to the smaller file after about half of the tooth life so you keep the working corner leading. This small chain is more sensitive to this, I would say. Curious to hear what your results are. Russ

I bought several boxes of 11/64 by mistake, think I'll keep a box or two. Should be the perfect size.

I dont like .325 chain, too many darn cutters. only have it on the CMan/solo 651 SP, and if Dennis ever sends me my Shin. 488-G, that too. My 346 XP-G has 3/8, much better, and plenty darn fast.

Oops!

I think my previous post should have read 3/16s, I must have Huskyman`s 3/8 file on the brain, well, what brain there is. Russ

Despite Oregon's recommendation, I can't see using a 5/32 file on this chain until the cutters are pretty worn. I think the 3/16 provides a much better bevel angle and leaves the cutter less suceptible to damage. I also don't seem to be nicking the tie bars much.

I thought about running 3/8 chain on this saw but most of you guys recommended sticking with 0.325 when I sought advice last spring. I have to say that I like the set-up pretty well, especially now that I'm back to using a 3/16 file to dress it up. I have noticed more vibration since filing the rakers yesterday, but they're all within spec.

I won't say for certain, but I think Oregon may have those of us that use the "file-& Joint" style jigs in mind with the 5/32 reccomendation...although I was just looking at an Oregon package and remember the 3/16" file for #95 on it.

I admit to using the jig pretty often...I've literally just about worn out my second one...but if you set up to get all the angles perfect with the file, you'll begin to cut into the side plates about halfway through the life of the cutter. It's worse with chisel chain.

Laugh if you want...I can't maintain the optimum cutting efficiency I like by hand. I'm jealous of you guys that can restore a rocked out chain in 3 strokes, by eye, at midnite on a dark stormy nite. I touch up by hand out in the woods, but 5 or 6 times during the life of the chain I will restore it with the file jig. Especially if I dip a chain in the dirt...yeah, I've done that a time or two as well.

Originally posted by eyolf
......... I'm jealous of you guys that can restore a rocked out chain in 3 strokes, by eye, at midnite on a dark stormy nite.

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If it's bad, it can take 4 strokes per tooth.

"File & Joint"

What sort o' jig is a "File & Joint." I've been filing by hand ever since John Walker sent me a roller guide (I believe a 'vacuum company' product) with my 346 XPw last spring, and have been very pleased with this style guide.

I tried using Oregon's guides in the past, and just boogered up my chains and threw all the guides in a drawer to gather dust. I've had great success with the roller guide on the bench and in the field, and have developed much better "free hand" abilities since switching to this style guide.

I suspected that Oregon's file size recommendation may have assumed the use of an Oregon guide, but I think they show free-hand filing in their diagrams on new chain loop boxes.

The Granberg's jig I use looks like the G106 on <a href="http://www.granberg.com/fnj.html"> this page</a> (left photo). Others make these too. I don't like Oregon's current plastic model.

With care, I can restore a pretty badly-abused chain in 15 or 20 minutes, and can file a so-so one in 10. Out in the woods, I can bring a chain to so-so status in two filings!

file-n-joint is a bar mounted rig. Being new to this and self taught through reading these posts and others, I use one to get angles and stuff as close as I can to being right. I am now free hand filing in the field and just use the rig to correct the free hand hack job.

I got my file-n-joint through baileys.