About to buy gear, need advice

[Plasmech]

Well I've done the following:

1. Read The Tree Climber's Companion three times front to back

2. Hooked up with a hardcore pro from the west. Sadly, he just lost a friend to a snag.

3. Mastered tying, dressing, and setting every knot in the Climber's Companion with my eyes closed. Every night I do every knot five times in the dark after my wife goes to bed.

So....guess what boys, it's now time to go out and get myself killed, yee haw!

But, to kill myself, I need some gear first. This is what I am thinking:

1. Petzl Navajo sit saddle ($189). Or maybe just upgrade to the "fast" for an extra $20. I know Petzl well, used to rock climb.

2. Yale 5/8" x 10' wire-core flip line

3. Yale 5/16" Prusik cord

4. micro-pulley with "dog leash" latch

5. Petzl locking 'biners (own from rock days)

6. Buckingham spikes, use current Timberland boots with heel

7. Petzl helmet

My first project that my pro is going to help me with is a pine take-down. Spike up, limb, spike up, top, block down. No limb walking. Spiking attire only. Stihl MS192 TC will be my weapon untill she gets too thick. After that all I have is a heavy-ass farm boss..ugh.

Anyway, am I missing anything? Can I save money anywhere? Thanks!

 

[Nailsbeats]

Get yourself a '78 Pontiac, and a brick. Get in, shut your eyes, and combine the two.

 

[Plasmech]

Get yourself a '78 Pontiac, and a brick. Get in, shut your eyes, and combine the two.

I just don't get it. But then again, if I did, I'd be no better off, asshat.

 

[Blakesmaster]

I think you forgot the deer stand.

 

[Plasmech]

I think you forgot the deer stand.

Oh yea, and the shotgun too. I #### you guys not on that deer stand story, it was my uncle. Believe what you want to believe.

 

[fishercat]

well for starters........

Well I've done the following:

1. Read The Tree Climber's Companion three times front to back

2. Hooked up with a hardcore pro from the west. Sadly, he just lost a friend to a snag.

3. Mastered tying, dressing, and setting every knot in the Climber's Companion with my eyes closed. Every night I do every knot five times in the dark after my wife goes to bed.

So....guess what boys, it's now time to go out and get myself killed, yee haw!

But, to kill myself, I need some gear first. This is what I am thinking:

1. Petzl Navajo sit saddle ($189). Or maybe just upgrade to the "fast" for an extra $20. I know Petzl well, used to rock climb.

2. Yale 5/8" x 10' wire-core flip line

3. Yale 5/16" Prusik cord

4. micro-pulley with "dog leash" latch

5. Petzl locking 'biners (own from rock days)

6. Buckingham spikes, use current Timberland boots with heel

7. Petzl helmet

My first project that my pro is going to help me with is a pine take-down. Spike up, limb, spike up, top, block down. No limb walking. Spiking attire only. Stihl MS192 TC will be my weapon untill she gets too thick. After that all I have is a heavy-ass farm boss..ugh.

Anyway, am I missing anything? Can I save money anywhere? Thanks!

1. i wouldn't get that saddle.

2. i'd get the 12' wire core flip line.

3. i go with a split tail for now.get some experience.

4. goes with your split tail.

5. i wouldn't climb on those.sell them on a rock climbing forum.

6.if those Timberlands don't have a steel shank,you won't be on those Buckinghams long.

7. what for?

 

[Plasmech]

1. i wouldn't get that saddle.

2. i'd get the 12' wire core flip line.

3. i go with a split tail for now.get some experience.

4. goes with your split tail.

5. i wouldn't climb on those.sell them on a rock climbing forum.

6.if those Timberlands don't have a steel shank,you won't be on those Buckinghams long.

7. what for?

What's wrong with the Petzl saddle in your opinion? What would you go with?

What is wrong with Petzl 'biners? OK *maybe* their saddles suck, however I refuse to believe their 'biners will break below rated load, that just ain't going to happen. Unless you mean something else?

How do I know if a boot has a steel shank? Thanks!!!

 

[woodchux]

Try to bend the shoe toe and heel together.. if it bends alot then there is no shank.

 

[woodchux]

You dont want to be using a brand new steelcore lanyard on a pine tree either.

 

[fishercat]

i'm not saying there is anything wrong with their saddles.

What's wrong with the Petzl saddle in your opinion? What would you go with?

What is wrong with Petzl 'biners? OK *maybe* their saddles suck, however I refuse to believe their 'biners will break below rated load, that just ain't going to happen. Unless you mean something else?

How do I know if a boot has a steel shank? Thanks!!!

i would go with a batton seat until you get more experience and your muscles get used to climbing.as a new climber,you will be doing a lot of resting and you will be glad you took my advice.
here is what i would recommend for you to learn in.they sell well on ebay when you are ready to move up to something else.

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=10&item=922

industry standards require a locking feature to back up the closing of the carabiner.the load rating is not the issue here.tree climbing and rock climbing are two different things as well as the different elements involved with each.

previous post is correct about the steel shank.it's very rare that a manufacturer does not disclose the fact that a boot with a steel shank has one.spending more money in this area cannot be stressed enough.it is the difference between comfort and misery.the longer you feel comfortable in the tree,the longer you will stay.being miserable in the tree and only wanting to get down will distract you from learning and getting better as a climber.

this are things i learned the hard way since i had no one to teach me in the very beginning.this is all based on personnal experience. fortunately you found this site before you got further ahead.i wish i had.

 

[emr]

I think you forgot to mention a climbing line.

 

[NHCowboy]

If I used "my" rock climbing stuff, I think my wife would shoot me.

 

[tomtrees58]

I think you forgot to mention a climbing line.

don't tell him that he wood look good at 100 ft with out it he he tom trees

 

[Plasmech]

I am not worried about a climbing line yet, I am doing take-downs that do not require me to leave the trunk...lanyard and secondary back-up are what I need.

 

[Plasmech]

i would go with a batton seat until you get more experience and your muscles get used to climbing.as a new climber,you will be doing a lot of resting and you will be glad you took my advice.
here is what i would recommend for you to learn in.they sell well on ebay when you are ready to move up to something else.

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=10&item=922

industry standards require a locking feature to back up the closing of the carabiner.the load rating is not the issue here.tree climbing and rock climbing are two different things as well as the different elements involved with each.

previous post is correct about the steel shank.it's very rare that a manufacturer does not disclose the fact that a boot with a steel shank has one.spending more money in this area cannot be stressed enough.it is the difference between comfort and misery.the longer you feel comfortable in the tree,the longer you will stay.being miserable in the tree and only wanting to get down will distract you from learning and getting better as a climber.

this are things i learned the hard way since i had no one to teach me in the very beginning.this is all based on personnal experience. fortunately you found this site before you got further ahead.i wish i had.

Thanks. What's a batton seat? How is it different? By the way, the Petzl caribiners do have a locking feature.

 

[NHCowboy]

No, our locking biners need to have a way to lock the locking device. These biners have a twist lock with a detent button to ensure the lock stays engaged. Screw gates can be unscrewed by a rope passing through or simply handling it.

 

[ozzy42]

I am not worried about a climbing line yet, I am doing take-downs that do not require me to leave the trunk...lanyard and secondary back-up are what I need.

You need a climbing line.
You can't get out of the tree quickly without one,especially when you need to the most,,,,, if you are injured.
With a climbing line,you can get to the ground in a few seconds with only one hand,if need be.

And yes my friend,that could be a matter of life and death

 

[moss]

Not likely that I'll convince you but here's something to think about...

Before bringing a chainsaw up into a tree a person has to learn how to BE in a tree. That takes some time, can't be instantly learned by reading a book. So if you were my next door neighbor I would recommend the following...

Learn how to climb. Don't carry a chain saw up, for a while. Don't even bring a hand saw up. Just climb, get very familiar with your climbing system with many hours in trees. Build up your climbing skill and strength. Climb with experienced climbers, observe how they move in the tree (instant humility, there's a lot you don't know yet, just watching a good climber will teach you volumes). When you start carrying a hand saw make your first cuts pruning deadwood. Start with small stuff, see how it behaves, learn how to control it when you drop it. Move up to larger branches, learn how to rig it down with a rope. Remember you're still using a hand saw. Learn how to prune live branches properly, study the branch collar, tree anatomy etc. Ok, maybe now you're ready to bring a chain saw up and survive, maybe.

If you have to have a tree down now go find someone qualified to do it.
-moss

 

[davej]

Every night I do every knot five times in the dark after my wife goes to bed.

Do you untie her or does she have to escape?;-)

My first project that my pro is going to help me with is a pine take-down. Spike up, limb, spike up, top, block down.

Chunking down a large pine spar as a "first project?" Now we are back in troll land.

 

[treemandan]

Not likely that I'll convince you but here's something to think about...

Before bringing a chainsaw up into a tree a person has to learn how to BE in a tree. That takes some time, can't be instantly learned by reading a book. So if you were my next door neighbor I would recommend the following...

Learn how to climb. Don't carry a chain saw up, for a while. Don't even bring a hand saw up. Just climb, get very familiar with your climbing system with many hours in trees. Build up your climbing skill and strength. Climb with experienced climbers, observe how they move in the tree (instant humility, there's a lot you don't know yet, just watching a good climber will teach you volumes). When you start carrying a hand saw make your first cuts pruning deadwood. Start with small stuff, see how it behaves, learn how to control it when you drop it. Move up to larger branches, learn how to rig it down with a rope. Remember you're still using a hand saw. Learn how to prune live branches properly, study the branch collar, tree anatomy etc. Ok, maybe now you're ready to bring a chain saw up and survive, maybe.

If you have to have a tree down now go find someone qualified to do it.
-moss

" You must be the ball, nahn, nahn, nahn, nahn"
Author, Ty Web