OK Russ, you beat my reply. Maybe I shouldnt have agreed on the inboard clutch being easier to mount the chain on. My three saws are husky 353 and 372 and 488 shindaiwa (what a piece of rubbish). I really dont have much experience with the 260. I just kind of like the external rim on the 372.
Advice on small saw.
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Couldnt running a saw at max rpms with no b/c cause the clutch to come apart? I have no idea, just curious.
jokers
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brent denny said:
Yeah, I`ve witnessed aussie telling you that, but the truth of the matter is that I`ve heard so much positive press abot the 488 that I recently purchased a couple for myself. At first glance they seem to be a solid little saw but I don`t yet have the qualifying experience with this model to back up my impression. I don`t think that the 488 when bone stock will outcut a similar 346 or ms260 but I`d be surprised if it were far behind. I think I`ll have these saws Hoffmannisterized. RAHTREELIMBS is said to have vast experience with Shindaiwa.
Russ
Russ, I wonder why the Stihl shop manuals say to tune it with no bar/chain if they have a baseline. What do you reckon the baseline is for an MS260? 16, 18, 20 inch bar, which chain pitch?
Good to see you back. I can understand the difficulty of being "one of the boys" and a moderator at the same time. I don't think I could do it.
So you're saying on your Stihl saws that you place the bare bar on the saw and then try to lay the chain onto everything? I'll have to try that. I normally put the chain on the bar and hang it from the slack loop at the drive end to fully seat the chain, then place the bar on the studs as I hold the loop open to go around the drive sprocket. Except on the 066 with the 8-pin driver, where some of the chain/bar combos require a slightly larger slack loop be formed and placed around the drive sprocket first.
You make a fair point regarding keeping the damage in an exterior part with a failed brake system, but I prefer to not continue running the saw if it's not working right, and I much prefer the simplicity of installing a cover that's only a cover. I also dislike the idea that without precise alignment of the cover, it could more easily allow a brake component to drag, and I dislike the idea of putting the additional stress on the bar studs the design requires for functionality.
I feel the need to remind you specifically that I don't dislike Electrolux saws, I merely prefer the Stihl designs better, as a whole.
Glen
Good to see you back. I can understand the difficulty of being "one of the boys" and a moderator at the same time. I don't think I could do it.
So you're saying on your Stihl saws that you place the bare bar on the saw and then try to lay the chain onto everything? I'll have to try that. I normally put the chain on the bar and hang it from the slack loop at the drive end to fully seat the chain, then place the bar on the studs as I hold the loop open to go around the drive sprocket. Except on the 066 with the 8-pin driver, where some of the chain/bar combos require a slightly larger slack loop be formed and placed around the drive sprocket first.
You make a fair point regarding keeping the damage in an exterior part with a failed brake system, but I prefer to not continue running the saw if it's not working right, and I much prefer the simplicity of installing a cover that's only a cover. I also dislike the idea that without precise alignment of the cover, it could more easily allow a brake component to drag, and I dislike the idea of putting the additional stress on the bar studs the design requires for functionality.
I feel the need to remind you specifically that I don't dislike Electrolux saws, I merely prefer the Stihl designs better, as a whole.
Glen
Whoops, I just looked in the MS260 service manual and it says "with bar and properly adjusted chain". I've got to find the other documents which I'd thought said differently.
Still, though, setting it to 13k with a 20" bar and chain would certainly make it measure higher with a 16" combo.
Glen
Still, though, setting it to 13k with a 20" bar and chain would certainly make it measure higher with a 16" combo.
Glen
Stumper
One Man Band
Glen, It is nice to be at least partially agreed with. 
To clarify, I do not maintain that bar length makes no difference only that the difference between a 16 inch bar and a 20 inch is not that great-out of the wood. You have approx 40 inches of chain/rail contact with a 16 (I'm ignoring the sprocket nose bar relieving contact around the nose) and about 48 inches of contact with a 20inch bar. If most of the load on a saw came from bar/chain friction then I guess we could assume a 20%drop in performance with the longer bar......But the major load on the engine comes from the work the cutters do in the wood not bar/chain contact. Without doubt the 16 inch bar is a better choice on a 3 cube saw if you are burying it but experience shows that the saws can handle burying a 20 if you let the sharp chain work and don't horse it. Experience further indicates that no 3 cibe saw is the ideal choice for big wood. The modern 3 cube saws work in big wood. They even work fairly well! A 4 cube saw or bigger is simply a better choice when wood diameters exceed 14 inches for more than a few cuts.
To clarify, I do not maintain that bar length makes no difference only that the difference between a 16 inch bar and a 20 inch is not that great-out of the wood. You have approx 40 inches of chain/rail contact with a 16 (I'm ignoring the sprocket nose bar relieving contact around the nose) and about 48 inches of contact with a 20inch bar. If most of the load on a saw came from bar/chain friction then I guess we could assume a 20%drop in performance with the longer bar......But the major load on the engine comes from the work the cutters do in the wood not bar/chain contact. Without doubt the 16 inch bar is a better choice on a 3 cube saw if you are burying it but experience shows that the saws can handle burying a 20 if you let the sharp chain work and don't horse it. Experience further indicates that no 3 cibe saw is the ideal choice for big wood. The modern 3 cube saws work in big wood. They even work fairly well! A 4 cube saw or bigger is simply a better choice when wood diameters exceed 14 inches for more than a few cuts.
jokers
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glens said:
Yeah Glen, I was just looking at the manual for the 026 and was going to point out what you just stated in regard to the properly tensioned bar and chain.
I`d have to agree, setting the carb for a 20" bar and chain is not going to be optimal for a 16" combo. This is one possible scenario where being able to readjust the carb is important aside from the fact that the 026 seems to be one of the most finicky saws I`ve ever dealt with in regard to carb adjustment.
I would guess that to a very small extent the difference in carb setup between adjusting for a 20" b&c vs a 16"b&c may be apparent, but what would it look like if we took your 066 and adjusted it for a 36" bar and then wanted to run a 16" bar in some small wood? I think the saw would be slightly over rich.
What bar and chain would constitute the baseline for adjustment purposes? I`d say the length that each particular model is most often outfitted with, but it is definitely a moving target.
BTW, Thanks for welcoming me back. As a moderator, who`s function is to support the forum`s best interest, I did not feel that it was appropriate for me to become publicly involved in the fracas although I do have many very strong opinions regarding what transpired. Ask MrsArboristSite if you have any doubts,LOL! MrsA.S. I have found is a very nice person to deal with and apparently also has a very strong resolve. Three cheers!
Russ
It would only make sense that the larger the bar you are adjusting with, the lower your target RPM's should be. After all, it makes no sense to end up with a different fuel/air ratio because of the bar you have. It would be nice if manufactures gave a chart with something like, # of chainlinks vs RPM's.
WoodTick007
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How are all these rpm adjustments to be made on the 026/260 when the carb has only a low and idle adjustments? Is the operator to place a certian size piece of duck tape on the airfilter to control the amount of air when running different size b/c combos? Or does the operators manual use the one, two, or three finger method for blocking off air to the carb? If it is the duct tape method. Is this another important common part between saws in the Stihl line? IE bar nuts, clutch covers,fasteners and bars?
Now its starting to get interesting and confusing. I can see I got a lot of learning to do. But I do appreciate all the info. I'm getting. Maybe I should go to lowes and get a wild thing.
I really do want to think everyone for all there input and will follow up when I have made a purchase. Keep the advice coming and difference of opinion.
Without this and kids life would be boring!
I really do want to think everyone for all there input and will follow up when I have made a purchase. Keep the advice coming and difference of opinion.
Without this and kids life would be boring!
I would buy what feels good to you and also consider dealer support. Then do some reading here and learn how to maintain your saw. Proper fuel mix, a clean air filter,proper carb settings and a sharp chain mean the most. Get that right and you will probably be happy with any good quality saw you choose. P.S. Always use synthetic oil.
jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
netree said:
Erik, when it comes to moderation, you and I are polar opposites. We could discuss our differences in greater detail out of the public eye if you`d like, but I think we at best could only agree to disagree on how to moderate.
I certainly can`t take sole credit for the popularity of the chainsaw forum because I think Dennis Greffard actually was a pretty good moderator and he more or less set the tone here, but what I can say is that if we were to compare the total number of threads and posts in this forum to the next most popular here, the climbers forum, and then consider that the majority of initial posting activity was in the climbers forum, I believe that a person of even modest intelligence could surmise that less autocracy of the moderator equals more popularity of the forum. This is not meant as a swat toward JPS either, just that he is much more rigid in his administrative behavior.
There now, I`ve shared and I`ll bet that you don`t agree.
The freedom of living in America is a great thing isn`t it, please don`t take my statements as a personal affront.
Russ
jokers
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Freewheelin' Erik, it`s the best way to be. You can feel secure in knowing that I won`t delete any of YOUR posts simply because I don`t agree with your perspective.
Russ
Russ
I'm glad you guys brought up the Husky 141, was looking to buy it to replace my Poulan PRO 220! Small, light saw, but after a year and a half and about 90 truckloads with it, I think it is down for the count. Looking now to go to a Husky 340 or 345! But at the rate I am going with old saws, I may not need to but a new one! I have a Homelite XL-12 coming in Monday as another free-be! But it will be cleaned up, fired up and put up!
I suppose <i>I'm</i> responsible for this thread veering off toward moderation...
So Erik, are you saying that you're an undercover moderator now? Is that the new plan, to not let the sheep know who the shepherds are?
Glen
P.S. (and not to start an argument, but) your email didn't seem to work for me the other night. Just think, it could have all been kept private...
So Erik, are you saying that you're an undercover moderator now? Is that the new plan, to not let the sheep know who the shepherds are?
Glen
P.S. (and not to start an argument, but) your email didn't seem to work for me the other night. Just think, it could have all been kept private...
LJS
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It was a joke Glens, haven't you even heard of the prank the crew pulls on the new choker setter? You come up short trying to rig up a choker on the hook, so you get the new guy to run all the way down to the landing and ask the side rod for the choker stretcher, well there's no such thing as a choker stretcher. LOL Just having a little fun with the new guy! and it's LJS, not Red.
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