Advise on a small saw, ms241 or maybe an olemac 440 0r 947

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Fatherwheels

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I was looking to get a small saw, to trim branches and cut the odd small tree, (12 inch).
I like the look and feel of the Stihl 241, but the prices are crazy, 630.00 euro.
That lead me to look at the Olemac range, on paper they seem good enough for the
money, twin ringed piston, parts are available to me, and they are light enough too.

Anyone use an Olemac 440
42.9cc/2.9hp
• 4.3Kg in Weight
• 18" Bar & Chain

Or the Olemac 947
  • 45cc/3.1hp Engine
  • 4.9kg in Weight
  • 18" Bar & Chain

I think they use the same chassis, only smaller engines, and have heard nothing bad
about them.

Any info on these Olemacs welcome, am sure the Stihl is a much better saw,
but I can get the Olemac 440 for half the price, difficult to turn down considering
this will be used for light work, constant though once it starts.

You probably are more familiar with the Stihl spec,
42.6cm³
2.3kW/3.1bhp

Bar Length
13", 15" or 16"

Weight
4.5 kg

Saw Chain Pitch
3/8"P
Vibration level left/right
2.9/2.9 m/s²

The chains on the Olemacs seem more popular, than the 3/8 P on the Stihl,
and someone told me these 241 saws dance about a lot, something to do with a cutter
left out because of the drive rim and bar length configuration, is this ttue, this alone
would put me well off, for a small saw dancing about is no fun.

I have larger saws, ms 362, Makita 6100, and have been using an ms 251 on loan,
its a cracker of a saw, but its 575.00 euro where I live, Ireland.

Any comments on these saws welcomed, and any better prices spotted
welcomed.

Thanks to all
 
Olemac made good saws but have very poor support over here in Canada, I only have two 950`s and both of their electronic modules went bad early in their lifespan. Finding replacements was very difficult but eventually found them through the web.
 
Here Oleomac are considered to be good saws for hobby usage; price corresponds to quality. Disadvantage is expensive labor and spare parts at authorized dealer.

(I was looking for something between MS241 (~670E) and MS261 (~720E) and ended up with Echo CS-501SX (~420E), but its price in Ireland is ridiculously high. I did not even consider GS440 (~250E) nor OM947 (~300E).)
 
Here Oleomac are considered to be good saws for hobby usage; price corresponds to quality. Disadvantage is expensive labor and spare parts at authorized dealer.

(I was looking for something between MS241 (~670E) and MS261 (~720E) and ended up with Echo CS-501SX (~420E), but its price in Ireland is ridiculously high. I did not even consider GS440 (~250E) nor OM947 (~300E).)
Hi pavel408
Thanks for commenting.
Are you saying you got an Echo CS-501SX for 420.00 euro, any chance you have a link to where you got it, I want one at that price.
And could you tell me or show me links to the Olemacs for your said prices, pm me if you can, thanks.
 
Olemac made good saws but have very poor support over here in Canada, I only have two 950`s and both of their electronic modules went bad early in their lifespan. Finding replacements was very difficult but eventually found them through the web.
I totally agree, the parts are a little costly compared to even Stihl or Husqvarna, but what parts does one usually
need, other than worn sprockets bars and chains, I never put a part on a saw ever, I sell them and move on to
a newer model, that way I usually have up to date saws.
I did actually hear the electronic modules are not long livers, read it somewhere in the past, even saw where
one guy was able to put a module from a large Stilhl on a certain model Olemac, and it completely changed
the saws power curve, don't have a link sadly, for the difference was really noticeable, higher rpm too.

Thanks for posting
 
someone told me these 241 saws dance about a lot, something to do with a cutter
left out because of the drive rim and bar length configuration, is this true

No, that's total BS. My 241 with the stock chain does not "dance". It's very stable in the cut. I have other saws with odd numbers of teeth so there's two teeth of the same side next to each other. The only time I notice it is when I'm sharpening the chain.

The 63 PS3 chain that came on the 241 is really good. It stays sharp for a long time (especially for full chisel). 3/8 LP cuts faster because the kerf is narrower. I liked it so much I bought more of that instead of the less expensive 3/8 LP that I usually use.

The 241 is a sweet handling and running saw but it's really expensive for what you get. I'd have stuck with my 025 but it's so hard to pull over that it was jacking up my elbow. I often use the saws in this size class for brush and for me brush cutting involves stopping the saw often while I clear cut brush out of the way. Using it for firewood wouldn't be a problem.
 
I totally agree, the parts are a little costly compared to even Stihl or Husqvarna, but what parts does one usually
need, other than worn sprockets bars and chains, I never put a part on a saw ever, I sell them and move on to
a newer model, that way I usually have up to date saws.
I did actually hear the electronic modules are not long livers, read it somewhere in the past, even saw where
one guy was able to put a module from a large Stilhl on a certain model Olemac, and it completely changed
the saws power curve, don't have a link sadly, for the difference was really noticeable, higher rpm too.

Thanks for posting

It`s more like if the parts are easily available in your area, I can get them but with shipping included in the deal I might as well buy a new saw, I would like to get new air filters for them but just make do with what I have. If I added the price of the replacement modules and airfilters landed here it would almost equal what I initially paid for the saws in the first place. I wish they had caught on here, the build quality is very good all around. I may someday try a work around for the modules if ever needed again but for now the saws run fine when needed. The chainbrake band and linkage is gone on one, the other still works well.
 
I have a few 026`s also, all work saws.

View attachment 698419
I sold an 025 last year to a strong lady, and she can start and run it. However, I offered her last week an 026 PRO with the decomp, and she said, "I love the 025 I bought last year but this 026 PRO is a Cadillac, and I'm driving an old Chevy."
 
I sold an 025 last year to a strong lady, and she can start and run it. However, I offered her last week an 026 PRO with the decomp, and she said, "I love the 025 I bought last year but this 026 PRO is a Cadillac, and I'm driving an old Chevy."

Have you ever run a woods ported 026? It makes such a difference in them.
 
The MS-241 C-M is a fantastic saw. I bought one just a few months ago. It's the easiest starting chainsaw I've ever owned. It feels great and is very well-balanced.

I used a newly acquired credit card to buy mine. My final cost after a dealer authorized 10% discount off DSRP and cash back from the credit card company was $311.22 US.

You can't do any better than that for a price!

Chain Saw.JPG
 
I’d agree with what a few of the other guys have said. Get a second hand Stihl MS260. Such a great reliable saw. Plus you’d get a bit more power which one day might come in useful. These saws fly out every time we get one in. Should be able to get one for no more than £200
 
I’d agree with what a few of the other guys have said. Get a second hand Stihl MS260. Such a great reliable saw. Plus you’d get a bit more power which one day might come in useful. These saws fly out every time we get one in. Should be able to get one for no more than £200
Not many trustworthy sellers here, to top it off I used to work for a plant hire company,
customer walks in, makes off with new saw, after burning the tank of fuel that went sent out in the saw,
and pouring in some rubbish of their own, they walk back in, scolding about how the saw just stopped.
Many many barrel and pistons have been replaced because of this, so I would not trust a second hand saw.
Not judging anyone, you would have to see these guys and experience them year in year out to believe how
stupid and untrustworthy they are.
 
Not many trustworthy sellers here, to top it off I used to work for a plant hire company,
customer walks in, makes off with new saw, after burning the tank of fuel that went sent out in the saw,
and pouring in some rubbish of their own, they walk back in, scolding about how the saw just stopped.
Many many barrel and pistons have been replaced because of this, so I would not trust a second hand saw.
Not judging anyone, you would have to see these guys and experience them year in year out to believe how
stupid and untrustworthy they are.

That’s fair enough, I’m guessing you don’t fix saws yourself? I’d feel the same, and admittedly did the same and only bourght new power equipment before I learnt what to check for and how to fix them. (And I guess the warranty is always useful)
 
$311.22, thats an amazing price, here in Ireland they are listed at 630.00 Euro
Google just told me that 630.00 equates to 716.29 USD, they don't call this place rip off Ireland for nothing.


I also bought my MS-461-R with a new credit card. I also bought it from a dealer in Oregon. No sales tax there. The dealer also gave me $100.00 off MSRP.

After all was said and done, and with the cc cash back, the dealer discount, and some cash back points saved up from other credit cards, the final price was a bit over $500.00 US.
 
That’s fair enough, I’m guessing you don’t fix saws yourself? I’d feel the same, and admittedly did the same and only bourght new power equipment before I learnt what to check for and how to fix them. (And I guess the warranty is always useful)
OH I can fix them, but I would be very unpopular with these sellers, who all know each other.
Am dealing with people who put sawdust in gearboxes to keep down noise, and razor blades behind
shell bearings, they deliberately destroy engines for fun and always seem to find a victim when they
get them back in one piece, plenty of car boot sale guys have saws, they want almost the same price
as new, and unless you got inside the saws, you could end up with an expensive door stop,
run them your thinking, oh sorry, were not insured for you to do that, hmm, you cant run a saw
here, they will complain about the noise, hmm, no you cant take the plug out, do you think am
telling you lies, this is a great saw, hmm, you rarely see a genuine saw for sale here, I sell mine,
but people know my stuff is what I say and I never have trouble selling on to upgrade.
A lot of people here go to bed, and wake up a mechanic, a saw doctor, or such, and I would
rather not pay for their mistakes, you guys who know saws know it only takes one slip
up to cause a lot of damage and expense, that is why I would rather have a new Olemac than
chase after second had Stihls or Huskys, no one sells them here unless they screw them up.

I have seen old Olemacs here, they are for the most part mechanically reliable, oregon parts,
carbs are standard, as mention by another the coil can give out, (thanks for remembering me),
the only other thing I have determined is they are not a fast cutting saw, slow chain speeds,
maybe that is why the old ones are about for so long. replacement barrel and cylinders are more
expensive for them, but the genuine ones are cheaper than for other brands OEM parts.

If I could get one to try I would soon know if it would do my jobs, might try an hire one if they
have the same models I mentioned, there are no cats on them, no electronic fuel control, that
is also something I like, keep it simple.
 

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