Am I being unreasonable? CAD forming...?

[Philbo]

Ok, I'm gonna try to keep this simple.

I have an 044 w/ 20" b/c. Well used probably professionally for it's long life prior to me, don't know compression (still a bit new to this game), seems to runs strong to me for firewood use, but again, I'm not as experienced as some of you fine chainsawin' folk. I've cut about 5 cords with it so far since I got it back in May and it's never given me any real issues.

My small issue with it is that when I put it down, still running, to do something (move a log, some brush, relax for a second, etc) then pick it back up to start sawing again, it will cut off on me. Not all the time, everytime, but enough to make it annoying. It's almost like it senses when I pick the saw up and decides to cut off then...could be something to do with the movement of the saw suddenly after having sat on the ground for a bit?? Sometimes, after this happens, it takes 4-5 pulls to get it fired up. Sometimes, it will fire up on the first pull (hot) Any ideas here? Would pics of the saw help? If so, what specifically would be helpful to see...

I generally like the way it cuts, but anything bigger than 18-20" diameter seems a little slow to me (mostly hardwoods.) Trying my best to keep the chain sharp as often as possible...keep the saw cleaned out everytime I use it, etc...I keep reading that this saw should RIP with a 20" b/c and I don't really get that from it, but it's all relative.

Now, let's throw another loop into the mix. I'm very interested in having a chainsaw mill in the not so distant future. My partner and I are looking to buy wooded/partially wooded property in the next year, and I'd love to start the process of milling/kiln drying wood for lumber, or whatever AND firewood.

I'm currently thinking about selling the 044 for what I have in it to someone with more chainsaw tinkering experience/anyone who wants it and using those funds to supplement buying a bigger saw that could be dual purpose. Firewood and milling. Really looking at a cherry/rebuilt 046/460 or 064 for this. 460 too small for milling? 064 too big for general firewood saw? I don't mind the weight of the 044 at all really. I end up grabbing it more than my rebuilt 346xp simply because it's faster in most of the bigger wood I'm dealing with. 346xp has it's place too, though and I will certainly keep because it runs so well and is a great size.

...not stuck on Stihl either. I like Huskies, but don't want something sooo heavy (066, 288xp) that I won't want to pick up and cut firewood with. I'll say that most of the wood I've come across so far has been under 24", but yesterday I had the 044 buried in a 30" oak and while it certainly was fun, it seemed a bit outmatched...so it's always nice to have the option for more power without too much weight penalty.

Thoughts?

 

[fearofpavement]

Well, you can't have a 1 ton pick up and get 40 miles per gallon. You probably will want to get a saw just for milling if you are going to do much of it. Bigger is better.

Cut the logs, have someone bring in a bandmill and slice up your wood to specs. It'll be worth it unless you just really feel the need to do it yourself. (a few hours with the chainsaw mill and you may rethink the bandmill idea)

As far as the 044 vs 660, there isn't enough difference between the two to make it worth selling one for the other. The 044 is a great size for what you're using it for. Sharpen your chain...

 

[Philbo]

I hear you on that...Never used a chainsaw mill, just seems like a nice idea to me...what do I know :hmm3grin2orange: I do really want to make my own lumber, but getting a dedicated milling saw makes more sense.

Chain is sharp as far as I can tell. Using Stihl RS 33 chain...anything better for hardwood that's probably a bit dirty?

 

[B Harrison]

I would say with a sharp chain and a 20 bar (with the rs chain anyway) you should get a good feeling of power and ease of cut when you use your 044! Unless its out of tune or possibly needs a new ring/ piston....have you tried giving the high side screw a little turn either way, and then checking in the cut?

I am not a saw tuner at all, but a little bit can make a big change in cutting power. Also on the dying when you pick it up, sounds too me like something in the carb. Was the carb rebuilt when you purchased the saw?
If not it is always an option and made a big difference in my 268 hat had been sitting for years (read huge increase in power and runs better+ idles and cranks easier)

Can you turn the saw on its side with no issues?

 

[beerbelly]

Sounds like the "L" screw needs a bit of tweaking.

On the other note.... Love your saw..Don't get rid of it because it is sometimes a PITA. They all are. Buy more saws...make that one jealous. Dont sell it. It will learn!

 

[Philbo]

Good replies here.

@B Harrison
I can turn the saw on it's side without any running issues.

The carb probably should be rebuilt, as I'm sure it wasn't before I bought it.

I'm hesitant to start messing with the carb tuning without a tach. Last thing I wanna do is accidentally lean the saw out too much. I'm still a bit new to all this when it comes to tinkering...don't know if I've really developed my ear to hear exactly where the saw should be on the H side. I had the carb tuned by the local Stihl dealer when I first got it, but who knows if they did the best job or not...

@beerbelly
Thanks for the encouragement on not selling the saw...

I'm thinking now about sending the 044 out to get rebuilt/ported by one of the handful of AS builders....can't really see a downside to this in the long run except upfront cost, which will become negligible after a couple of years.

 

[old-cat]

Your low speed mixture screw needs some adjustment, you can play with that and the idle speed all you want and no worry about frying the engine. You will learn by doing it what works. Your high speed mixture needs to be tuned also but NOT until you learn how.

 

[Evanrude]

One of my 440's was giving me issues with dying after idling just like yours. I've been messing with it for a long time. Finally, I think I've got it figured out. This particular 440 has a 10mm 044 cylinder on it btw. Andy once said that 044 cylinders can have a lip on the bottom of the intake port where gas can pool while idling. As soon as you pick it up, that little pool of gas can slosh into the engine and stall it. If you blip the throttle before picking it up, it should clear out and not stall - try this.

I've fixed the issue by running the idle as high as possible without the chain moving and keeping the L screw on the lean side. Some day, I'll remove the cylinder and see if there is a pronounced lip on there and maybe even try a different cylinder on that saw. I've done everything else to it chasing this stall, what's it going to hurt?