Another Small Saw/Aging Advice Thread

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Arrived today on the estimated date. I know it's heavier than the small Poulan but it sure doesn't feel like it. If I had a choice I would have ordered a 14" bar like the Poulan has. The EA4300 bar looked smaller than a 16" and it measures exactly 14" from the bucking spike. The high adjustment isn't sealed but it's a metal dowel with nothing on top. I think it's the kind that they break the top off after adjustment. A Dremel cutoff wheel will put a nice adjusting slot on it.

Is there such a thing as a 6 tooth rim sprocket for the 3/8 LP chain which is the number of teeth on the original spur. I can find 7 tooth rims for both 3/8 and .325. Maybe there is not enough meat left for a 6 tooth rim?

View attachment 920135 View attachment 920134
A smaller drive will only slow the saw down, no need for that on a 3/8 pitch chain, there is less teeth on in comparison to a .325
so it will be easier to drive anyway, though I find the .325 to be less grabby on small bushes and such, not much in it. Stihl make a nice
chain for that saw, am assuming its 3/8 narrow kerf, Oregon 91 type chain.
Its 3/8 pico also known as lopro or narrow kerf and not full size 3/8 chain, that is on that saw, if you don't know, be sure not to by the full size 3/8 by mistake.
 
3/8 lopro, it's even less grabby than .325 and makes very smooth cuts suitable even for small-branch pruning.
I had 3/8 lopro on the Echo CS352, and I found it grabby as hell, I couldn't do a transverse cut at all until I sharpened it, yes it
was a new chain and no damage on it, but after the first sharpening it was completely different, but out of the packet, it was
grabby.
 
As you are probably aware, most chains out of the box need to be sharpened.

I've gone through only about a half dozen lopro chains on my 420. I didn't find any to be really bad out of the package, but they all got better after a couple of touch-ups. Until I hit something, lol. Wire is hell on lopro chain.
 
As you are probably aware, most chains out of the box need to be sharpened.

I've gone through only about a half dozen lopro chains on my 420. I didn't find any to be really bad out of the package, but they all got better after a couple of touch-ups. Until I hit something, lol. Wire is hell on lopro chain.
I find this too, the only chain that did cut transverse out of the packet was the Husqvarna SP33G, which is whats on my 4300, so it can be done,
annoying how others need to be sharpened first and them new, wonder what it is, is it the factory angles, which are not easy to keep using an electric
grinder, thus they perform better after sharpening, they are sharp as they cut no problem across the grain, I just don't know.
 
I had a stihl 3/8 chain once that was wicked sharp and proper brand new.

I know nothing about an electric grinder. For me, I don't see the point. Perhaps if I was sharpening many, many chains weekly..
 
Unless they changed recently its either a D or Double D carb screwdriver that fits the high, the low is a straight slot.
If you order a pack of carb screws make sure it has the D and Double D in it. And you don't need to take out the carb
to adjust it, there is a rubber cover that needs to be punctured before you can see the screw or adjust it on either the
H or L screw, I can't remember which one it is, so maybe your not seeing the screw head at all yet, I just punctured it
with the flat head screwdriver supplied with the saw, but mine is a Makita, Dolmar may indeed be different, though there
is really no reason for it to be.
EDIT, Just had a look, the H on mine looks absolutely round when viewing through the hole in the plastic casing, but its not,
you will only discover this when you try a D type carb screwdriver on it, rotate the screwdriver ever so slowly with very light pressure
on it, practically under its own weight and you will find it slips over the screw when it aligns with the faint flat spot on the side of the screw.

You are correct, I was just seeing the top half. I lit the area up and looked through the adjustment hole with a high power lens and saw a Double D. It starts out round for about 1/8" then Double D at the bottom. My adjustment holes were open with no rubber.

P7240035.JPG
 
A smaller drive will only slow the saw down, no need for that on a 3/8 pitch chain, there is less teeth on in comparison to a .325
so it will be easier to drive anyway, though I find the .325 to be less grabby on small bushes and such, not much in it. Stihl make a nice
chain for that saw, am assuming its 3/8 narrow kerf, Oregon 91 type chain.
Its 3/8 pico also known as lopro or narrow kerf and not full size 3/8 chain, that is on that saw, if you don't know, be sure not to by the full size 3/8 by mistake.
I was planning on running the 3/8 LP stock bar and chain, at least until they wear out. The chain is an Oregon 91PX056XMA. The stock drum is a 6 tooth spur. I have a spare rim drum that I could use for 3/8 or .325 but I don't want to run a 7 tooth rim sproket with the 3/8 chain. Faster chain speed but lower torque I believe. From the information I have found, .325 uses the 7 tooth spur or rim sprocket.
 
You are correct, I was just seeing the top half. I lit the area up and looked through the adjustment hole with a high power lens and saw a Double D. It starts out round for about 1/8" then Double D at the bottom. My adjustment holes were open with no rubber.

View attachment 920283
Good to know they have left the ability to tune unlocked.
Whats the story with the low jet, there is something protruding out of the tunnel where the jet is on the above image,
I have a feeling it was the low jet on mine that had a rubber cover near the saw casing that I had to puncture to get
the flat head screwdriver in.
 
Good to know they have left the ability to tune unlocked.
Whats the story with the low jet, there is something protruding out of the tunnel where the jet is on the above image,
I have a feeling it was the low jet on mine that had a rubber cover near the saw casing that I had to puncture to get
the flat head screwdriver in.
The low adjustment is longer.
 

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