Barber chair!

[RandyMac]

randy, don't you wish you had that mac in the humbolt pic #2. and yes thats how it's done. thank's randy for posting them.

Yeah Fraz, that 850 cut some wood.

I have enough parts to put two together, one will be nearly NOS and configured to my specs. I bought it to be a limbing saw, it made one hell of a falling saw.

 

[NCPABill]

Dingeryote

....whata dweeb.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Dweeb - I haven't heard that name in years. Thanks for reviving it! Rep your way.

Bill

 

[darkbyrd]

Humboldt cut. Used when a flush butt is needed, it saves board feet. This style will push the trunk clear of the stump. If done properly, it will prevent the dreaded stump or fiber pull that cause deductible defect...

Much bigger trees than I'll ever deal with, but thanks for the info! Awesome pics!

 

[jropo]

Thanks RandyMac for posting your pic's.:msp_thumbup:

 

[RandyMac]

Thanks guys.
Remember that each tree is different and some have issues that need special attention. The one cut that does it all, does not exist. Give the tree some study, run through your mind (if any) what you want it to do, picture the fulcrum point, do a protractor kinda thing to get the angles, cut accordingly.

 

[zogger]

What size bar were you using? Not to be critical, but looks like you were all over the map on your cuts.

I was using a 20 and yes all over the map. Perfectly fine, I posted this precisely to be criticized and for otherr guys help once that happens. We are all trying to learn to be better and safer cutters.

I changed my mind on the line a little, because of where I wanted to be for my escape route on the final back cut, and I still wasn't sure of my angles, so I adjusted. Nothing was going to match up well, my eyeballs were off that day. . Stepped back to look at it and readjusted a little.

I failed to leave a holding strip of any kind with that, when I should have. I did use a wedge though, but in the back, which made the potential for an early break worse I think.worse. I didn't like that cut, but once committed I wasn't going to leave it half cut.

When those leaners break, man, a lot of force there gets released. I *was* uphill at an angle moving fast when it broke though. Got to a creak noise, that's it, I vamoosed.

I sure would like a do over on that one, But oh well, on the ground, I ain't broken, saw ain't broken, and it fell where it needed to go. Like I said, I give myself a D+ on that. An E would be a chair, an F and I wouldn't be posting very much.... I just posted it up because it fit in the thread and avoiding chairs is a good idea.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Much bigger trees than I'll ever deal with, but thanks for the info! Awesome pics!

Humboldt cut. Used when a flush butt is needed, it saves board feet. This style will push the trunk clear of the stump. If done properly, it will prevent the dreaded stump or fiber pull that cause deductible defect.

Open face or conventional cut. The snipe insures that the trunk will leave the stump and can be offset to roll the trunk away from obstructions in the lay, close to the stump.

The block cut, used mostly in the bigger timber, useful for controlling how the tree falls, not just a directional cut.

Randys one of the guys that gets called a left coast limber as you can see by his pics he has the know how to back it up as does "Bob" Gologit. I know Randy and Bob both (in real life not just behind the key board)and can say they are the real deal as compared to some people that call em posers who have never posted a thing to support their big mouth.
They are plain spoken and dont dance around to make you feel good read their posts and pay close attention.

 

[Preston]

Now would the post above be called putting a little bit kindling on a fire that's just about out? :msp_unsure:

Nobody I don't think ever said Randy and his crowd didn't know what they were doing. Shoot, a lot of doctors know what they're doing but their bedside manner can certainly run off the patient. I think all anybody would expect of him or any of the rest is to describe the right way to work and leave his other personal digs in his keyboard. An believe me, I know a 20" tree can kill you just as dead as a 48" tree. A larger tree cut don't make you better, it's just what you have to work with in your area. No?

But for me, I'm learning quite a bit from some very helpful folks. I'm even learning from Randy, I just learned to not talk to him. Just watch what he does and "shut up". :msp_smile: Right?

 

[sawinredneck]

I don't think Randy doesn't want you to talk to him, just show a little humility if you are asking for help. You have kind of come in here like a bull in a china shop.
I've done my share of falling, and plan to do more, but I certainly don't classify myself as a "pro"! I also don't know that I'd tackle some of the tree's that have been pictured.

 

[Preston]

Well that's my mistake then. I never thought telling of my screw ups was being a "bull in a china shop". That was not intended cuz I am the one screwing up. How in the world could I take that attitude.

Live and learn for sure.

Thanks.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

In all my years, I've never had this happen to me but it sure gives a person food for thought. Great reminder... Thanks for posting the clip.

Rep sent

Ditto... I asked for a vid like this over in the Brad-falling-a-tree thread

 

[lumberjack48]

From a ole Timber Feller, Preston you''ll make a good tree feller, take your time, don't second quse yourself, and always stay on the high side of a tree. It gets in your blood, falling trees right where you want them, it gets to be a self contest.

 

[RandyMac]

Now would the post above be called putting a little bit kindling on a fire that's just about out? :msp_unsure:

Nobody I don't think ever said Randy and his crowd didn't know what they were doing. Shoot, a lot of doctors know what they're doing but their bedside manner can certainly run off the patient. I think all anybody would expect of him or any of the rest is to describe the right way to work and leave his other personal digs in his keyboard. An believe me, I know a 20" tree can kill you just as dead as a 48" tree. A larger tree cut don't make you better, it's just what you have to work with in your area. No?

But for me, I'm learning quite a bit from some very helpful folks. I'm even learning from Randy, I just learned to not talk to him. Just watch what he does and "shut up". :msp_smile: Right?

Other than reminding you to watch what you say about Left Coast fallers, I didn't direct anything to you.
Now that you brought it up, we have your first post in this thread.

And tell me this. I cut trees everyday for about 2 years and putting um on the truck. Mostly old growth pine, 24 inches and wider at the base. Of all I cut I never cut a face cut and could just about put every tree where I wanted and never had that long splinter thing happen. I just started cutting in the back and cut and directed the tree where I wanted. I cut at an slight angle down from back to front. Whenever I start notching and getting fancy I get in trouble. I once cut a face notch then went to the back side to finish. The tree started moving kinda weird. I laid the saw, an 041 AV, down behind the tree to try and guide the tree by hand. As the tree fell it slide backward off the stump and onto my saw. Needless to saw that one died and I had to go buy another one. Now why did that tree kick back off the stump?

Oh please, the mention of "Old Growth", along with your technique, used every day to near perfection, you gotta admit, it comes off as an unprepared wanabe logging story.

 

[blacklocst]

Humboldt cut. Used when a flush butt is needed, it saves board feet. This style will push the trunk clear of the stump. If done properly, it will prevent the dreaded stump or fiber pull that cause deductible defect.

Open face or conventional cut. The snipe insures that the trunk will leave the stump and can be offset to roll the trunk away from obstructions in the lay, close to the stump.

The block cut, used mostly in the bigger timber, useful for controlling how the tree falls, not just a directional cut.

Randy how did you cut the vertical notch in the block cut, did you plunge it?

 

[RandyMac]

Randy how did you cut the vertical notch in the block cut, did you plunge it?

Yep, plunge cuts, bust it out in chunks, did the same on this tree.

 

[Hddnis]

Well that's my mistake then. I never thought telling of my screw ups was being a "bull in a china shop". That was not intended cuz I am the one screwing up. How in the world could I take that attitude.

Live and learn for sure.

Thanks.

In reading your posts I couldn't tell if you were bragging about doing it wrong or what exactly the point was.

If you really want to learn that's great, you'll find plenty here. But if you get your back up because someone didn't talk nice to you, well, frankly you can't learn. I'm hard headed and stubborn with the worst of them, I don't like people telling me I messed up and I like even less when they try to school me. But what you described really is a wonder, don't see how one guy could be that lucky. Others are thinking the same thing and they want you to admit it, because that is the first step to never making the same mistakes.





Mr. HE

 

[Preston]

Oh mercy, I agree. After reading all I have on here I just wondered how in the world I survived. Really. I cut that way and didn't get killed or even hurt. If anybody thinks I'm bragging about surviving against all sensible odds, not so. I'm grateful to the Lord Almighty. He saw fit to protect a fool. I was asking how I did what I did and made it work? The old growth pine here are few to be found, but what's left is mostly in the 30 inch size. We used to have Long Leaf pine in the 40" size, no more. After WW I most of our trees were cut and shipped to Japan for their housing. Of course we use some for ourselves. But nothing like what Randy's show in that picture. Nothing but 300 years white oak grow here that size.

Bragging is something I don't do. Never have and never will. No place in my life for that stuff. If I was really this stupid do you think I would stick my chest out to be used as a pin cushion? No way.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Well, keep the info/pics coming. Never too old or too dumb to learn something new.

 

[Gologit]

Oh mercy, I agree. After reading all I have on here I just wondered how in the world I survived. Really. I cut that way and didn't get killed or even hurt. If anybody thinks I'm bragging about surviving against all sensible odds, not so. I'm grateful to the Lord Almighty. He saw fit to protect a fool. I was asking how I did what I did and made it work? The old growth pine here are few to be found, but what's left is mostly in the 30 inch size. We used to have Long Leaf pine in the 40" size, no more. After WW I most of our trees were cut and shipped to Japan for their housing. Of course we use some for ourselves. But nothing like what Randy's show in that picture. Nothing but 300 years white oak grow here that size.

Bragging is something I don't do. Never have and never will. No place in my life for that stuff. If I was really this stupid do you think I would stick my chest out to be used as a pin cushion? No way.

Stick around, Preston. We'll show you so many fancy cuts that you'll take all day just trying to figure out which ones to use. After you get the basics like Humboldt, Humboldt with a snipe, box face, and conventional we'll start you in on Sis-wheels, soft dutchmans, tapered hinges, side notching, springboards, wedging, jacking, and maybe even bore cutting.

How many trees do you have?

 

[Preston]

14 acres to work on.

Ok now, I have one I need down now to give my garden more sunlight. My problem with this one is it's a white oak with about a 30 inch base. It goes up about 20 feet and splits off in two directions. The main trunk seem to go pretty much straight up but a tad of a lean. The other one is smaller and more of a lean to opposite direction. I have a clearing where the garden is I need to drop it but neither lean is pointed in that direction. Will a face cut and a back side wedge move it in the right direction? What I don't want is this tree taking down others I don't want broken, so the clearing is really where it's needs to go.

What's got me afraid of this one is one I cut like this before. By the time I got the saw to a point on the back cut to clear the wedge the tree pinched back and the wedge could not be driven in. Believe it or not, well with me you probably will, the only thing that saved me was a big gust of wind that moved it enough to place the wedge and get the saw out. Then with an 8 lb sledge I got it on down. I think back on trees I've cut down without the face cut and almost break out in a sweat. For some reason pine was never much of a problem with me, but hardwoods seem to think all by themselves. :msp_smile:

With those face cuts you named off, do what!:msp_confused: