Chainsaw fuel

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For trouble free operation and performance always store 2 cycle engines free of fuel(empty fuel tank). Run the gas out of the carb as well. All 2 cycle engines will have that tip in the owners manual. I've done it for over 40 years and it works flawlessly.
 
The trick I have learned with gasoline storage is a very well sealed tank, NO VENT and stored FULL so it can not build vapor pressure . genset gets run 2x a year for a hour then its ran dry. Every 2 years I change the non ethanol stable storage treated fuel and put the old in the car and it looks/smells like fresh fuel. Mixed gets its own special storage in a sealed combi can at 40-1 non E, might take a day to burn or 6 months and I never suffer fuel quality issues. If I have no plans to run a saw I mix the combi can full to the top for long term storage.
 
Full disclosure, I'm a dealer for AMSOIL products, but I also use AMSOIL Saber at 80:1 with high octane fuel (91 or 93 depending on the gas station) in my saws, including modified saws that I've built (woods port, gasket delete). Not trying to convert anyone, but I've had good success with it and no oil related issues with my saws to date. They have done a lot of testing on it with trimmers, but I do wish they would do one with chainsaws due to the differences in RPM's and load between the types of equipment.

The mix ratio can definitely alter your engine's performance and carb settings. If your saw is tuned from the factory to 50:1 and you put 40:1 because you think more oil is better, you may run the risk of leaning the saw out because you have less fuel per volume at a 40:1 ratio.
 
I run 100LL mixed 32:1 with klotz super techniplate. It’ll keep in a can for multiple years pretty easily. Haven’t had a small engine carb diaphragm go bad since I made the switch. Buy like 10-15gallons when I make a trip.
I also use the 100LL. I have two stations that sell "E free" within 10 minutes from me and have got bad gas right from the pumps twice, so I started going to our small town airport and getting the 100LL. It's about the same price and much better quality. Although it does have some lead in it, so some might not feel comfortable using it. It smells great!

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Typically all new chainsaws are tuned at the factory with premixed bottled fuel. That is why, at times, customers will buy chainsaws at a big box store, take it home, pre-mix their own fuel and the saw simply won't run properly. It's best to buy pre-mix for initial operation of all new 2 cycle engines. After a bottle or 2 then go over to your own premixed fuel. It, the carburetor, may have to be retuned as well for that fuel.
That's one reason I won't buy a saw from a big box store. The best saw shop near us test runs every saw, blower and trimmer before it goes out the door. Last two Echo's we bought from them they said they're normally running lean right out of the box and they tuned them before we left.
 
How does metal prevent phase separation and moisture entrainment of stored efuel better than plastic ?

I read a long article in some kind of racing magazine that explained it very well. I can't remember the details but you can probably Google it and find your answer.
 
Full disclosure, I'm a dealer for AMSOIL products, but I also use AMSOIL Saber at 80:1 with high octane fuel (91 or 93 depending on the gas station) in my saws, including modified saws that I've built (woods port, gasket delete). Not trying to convert anyone, but I've had good success with it and no oil related issues with my saws to date. They have done a lot of testing on it with trimmers, but I do wish they would do one with chainsaws due to the differences in RPM's and load between the types of equipment.

The mix ratio can definitely alter your engine's performance and carb settings. If your saw is tuned from the factory to 50:1 and you put 40:1 because you think more oil is better, you may run the risk of leaning the saw out because you have less fuel per volume at a 40:1 ratio.

True, I check the tune on my saws every time I use them. 4 stroking at WOT then cleaning up in the cut then back to 4 stroking when I lift slightly out of the cut.
 
How does metal prevent phase separation and moisture entrainment of stored efuel better than plastic ?
Metal cans are more durable and last longer. Plastic breaks down over time releasing chemicals into the fuel. That’s what I meant when I said they are better for storage. Of course opinions vary as well as mileage
 
I buy super unleaded, add Stabil, mix 40:1 using Yamalube R. Been doing it that way for years. I usually mix 80 oz at a time and do this about 3 times a season. Stihl hand held blower and FS70 trimmer.
 
Metal cans are more durable and last longer. Plastic breaks down over time releasing chemicals into the fuel. That’s what I meant when I said they are better for storage. Of course opinions vary as well as mileage
Ok , thanks for the clarification ! I always ensure full and good tight sealing regardless of container composition , thermal cycles on less than full containers can cause condensation to form within the inner wall of storage container when the dew point is met .
 
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