Common man looking for a chainsaw on a budget

[LittleLebowski]

In the cities I have no prob throwing my smoke butt on the ground. But In God's country they go in my pocket

Mainly dealing with tires and piles of old wood with nails sticking out. I just don't understand ******** where you eat but it's getting cleaned up.

 

[bikemike]

Yeah that is pretty sickening

 

[CoreyB]

I just had a 5020 dropped off for a little work and a tune up. Not a bad saw for sub $200. I have a really tore up shoulder so the starting was a bit more then I would like but all the same decent saw. I did a video review of it.

 

[LittleLebowski]

Never mind, I'm a knucklehead and figured it out.

 

[LittleLebowski]

Dang this thing is needing a sharper chain. Since I'm in a hurry to take advantage of the weekend, I ordered a new Oregon D70 chain from Amazon. It is really slowing down a lot and quitting on me, cutting slow. I have a bit of work to do with it this weekend, too.

 

[Chris-PA]

Dang this thing is needing a sharper chain. Since I'm in a hurry to take advantage of the weekend, I ordered a new Oregon D70 chain from Amazon. It is really slowing down a lot and quitting on me, cutting slow. I have a bit of work to do with it this weekend, too.

Run out to Tractor Supply and get a 70DL loop of TriLink full chisel. It works just fine.

 

[LittleLebowski]

Run out to Tractor Supply and get a 70DL loop of TriLink full chisel. It works just fine.

Already got the Oregon chain I mentioned being delivered tomorrow but thanks for the heads up, maybe I'll try it next time.

*Update* I took the bar and chain off, cleaned out the bar thoroughly and also the entire area around the oiler holes and chain, I used non chlorinated brake cleaner. Reassembled it properly and it ran much better although I am still looking forward to the new chain tomorrow.

 

[grizz55chev]

Grab a chainsaw file and get to work .

 

[LittleLebowski]

Grab a chainsaw file and get to work .

I'm short on time hence the chain purchase. My time is spent working on the new place, playing with the two kids, and then setting up my reloader at night.

Do you have a recommendation for a file?

 

[weimedog]

There are a PILE of saws that fit....assuming you know how to run a saw and actually do have mechanical skills beyond being a "YouTube" mechanic....(see it on YouTube & hope you can copy)
Used.... Stihl has a bunch but we know Husqvarna's better
SO a list of options should you find them used. Husqvarna 445,450,455,460 also 55,257 and Jonsered counter parts ALL fits your bill well...A video shows a few and some odd ball saws that would ALSO work should you find them. Some good info on some of the saws you might find.

But my person recommendations would be (And are in this video):
Husqvarna 257 would be my pick if you can find one. Great saw and parts are still aound but tougher to find than pick number 2.
Husqvarna 455 used would be my second choice, still being sold new and simply one of the most under rated and reliable saws ever.
Husqvarna 55. A great simple saw with a pile of parts available and aftermarket support as well.
Husqvarna 350 with the 44mm top end! Usually "less" desirable to the so called "in the know" crowd but is mush more reliable than the later 45mm version, plenty of parts still available and plenty of them still out there.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I'm short on time hence the chain purchase. My time is spent working on the new place, playing with the two kids, and then setting up my reloader at night.

Do you have a recommendation for a file?

Please read this thread here.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/what-is-the-deal-with-pine-and-chainsaws.295123/

Pay close attention to post 14,22 and 27.

Just buy a Oregon file guide with in a size 7/32. Learn to use it and use it often. Ask @Philbert if he knows of some good videos to watch to learn how. There are some out there on You tube talking about chains who shouldn't be.

I find it hard to believe someone would go out to cut wood all day and only bring the chain on the saw and no file or means to sharpen it throughout the day.

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm short on time hence the chain purchase. My time is spent working on the new place, playing with the two kids, and then setting up my reloader at night.

Do you have a recommendation for a file?

I like the Stihl files I get in the 3-pack at the local ACE hardware. They are pretty cheap too. While time is important and usually all too limited, filing is simply part of using a saw. Chains dull in normal use and it's all too easy to touch the chain into the dirt, and once dulled they just don't work - like any other wood cutting tool, the blade edge must be sharp or it's useless.

If you want to save time then forget the file guides - learn to freehand file and it only takes a couple of minutes (although a chain vice is best if you do have time to take the chain off).

 

[Modifiedmark]

I like the Stihl files I get in the 3-pack at the local ACE hardware. They are pretty cheap too. While time is important and usually all too limited, filing is simply part of using a saw. Chains dull in normal use and it's all too easy to touch the chain into the dirt, and once dulled they just don't work - like any other wood cutting tool, the blade edge must be sharp or it's useless.

If you want to save time then forget the file guides - learn to freehand file and it only takes a couple of minutes (although a chain vice is best if you do have time to take the chain off).

Nice advice Chris, but the hole in your theory is Stihl don't sell a 7/32" file that is needed for Oregon full 3/8's chain and there file guides are marked for 30 deg, not the 25 that is used by Oregon.


A newbie needs the flat file guides to use, too easy to screw up the cutter free handing, especially if the chain is allowed to get in too bad a shape.

Are you talking bar mounted guides like the Grandburg?

 

[LittleLebowski]

I find it hard to believe someone would go out to cut wood all day and only bring the chain on the saw and no file or means to sharpen it throughout the day.

I absolutely appreciate your advice and links. However, I don't think it's outside the realm of believable that a guy who stated that he's getting started out in running a saw and is also a dad with a full time job and kids would be short on time and just trying to use his limited free time in the most efficient manner possible. Remember, "learning." If you're saying it's much more efficient for me to stop and sharpen a chain when I'm short on time, I'm all for it. I do plan on learning how to sharpen the chain but this weekend, I'm trying to clear out some stuff on this property I bought that was on the market, neglected, and unoccupied for literally two years. If I'm not cutting wood, I'm gathering leaves. If I'm not cutting wood nor gathering leaves in an attempt to see the lawn beneath, I'm driving 20+ miles to the dump. Then the front lawn needs mowed. Then we are still unpacking from moving here. Then "family time."

I know, what a tale of woe, right? I did come here to learn and am learning. Just trying to get a handle on this property I have. I sure do enjoy my running my Poulan 5020AV still.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I absolutely appreciate your advice and links. However, I don't think it's outside the realm of believable that a guy who stated that he's getting started out in running a saw and is also a dad with a full time job and kids would be short on time and just trying to use his limited free time in the most efficient manner possible. Remember, "learning." If you're saying it's much more efficient for me to stop and sharpen a chain when I'm short on time, I'm all for it. I do plan on learning how to sharpen the chain but this weekend, I'm trying to clear out some stuff on this property I bought that was on the market, neglected, and unoccupied for literally two years. If I'm not cutting wood, I'm gathering leaves. If I'm not cutting wood nor gathering leaves in an attempt to see the lawn beneath, I'm driving 20+ miles to the dump. Then the front lawn needs mowed. Then we are still unpacking from moving here. Then "family time."

I know, what a tale of woe, right? I did come here to learn and am learning. Just trying to get a handle on this property I have. I sure do enjoy my running my Poulan 5020AV still.

Yes it will be faster to take the time to file the chain throughout the day. You will make up for the lost time with more production, less wear and tear on the bar, chain and the saw.

The main thing is to sharpen the chain before it gets too dull to begin with. Just give it a touchup whenever you fuel up the saw.

 

[LittleLebowski]

Yes it will be faster to take the time to file the chain throughout the day. You will make up for the lost time with more production, less wear and tear on the bar, chain and the saw.

The main thing is to sharpen the chain before it gets too dull to begin with. Just give it a touchup whenever you fuel up the saw.

OK, link me to a dummy/Marine friendly kit

 

[grizz55chev]

Learning to sharpen your chain is part of the process, unless you pack at least 3 sharp chains with you at any given time. Files are cheap.

 

[Modifiedmark]

OK, link me to a dummy/Marine friendly kit

25892 is the number for the Oregon file guide.
27742 is the number for the Oregon depth gauge and file you will need for setting the raker depth.

You can get them locally, at hardware stores, dealers, or online.

 

[Chris-PA]

Nice advice Chris, but the hole in your theory is Stihl don't sell a 7/32" file that is needed for Oregon full 3/8's chain and there file guides are marked for 30 deg, not the 25 that is used by Oregon.


A newbie needs the flat file guides to use, too easy to screw up the cutter free handing, especially if the chain is allowed to get in too bad a shape.

Are you talking bar mounted guides like the Grandburg?

Mark, I have a pouch of 5.5mm Stihl files hanging in the barn (and 5.2mm too), got them at the local hardware store.

As for file guides, they're fine if you need them. But one can't assume the level of proficiency with tools just because someone's new to chainsaws. By the time I filed my first chain I'd been sharpening knives, chisels, planes, any kind of blade for many years, and once I knew what the edge was supposed to look like it was no big deal. Good light, a solid surface and an angle reference helps.

As for angle, I'm not sure that 25 vs. 30 degrees matters much compared to dull.

 

[grizz55chev]

Good light, a bench vise, sharp file, practice, all necessary for a good job. I contend that hand filed chains last longer than machine filed.