triathlete123
ArboristSite Member
I'd like to hear from owners of the X27 who have used the axe for a while. I'm skeptical of reviews where the comments are about a new axe. What new, sharp axe wouldn't work well when new?
Fiskars X27
- Thread starter triathlete123
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Here's 28 pages of comments on the x-27 to get ya started on. We'll be back tomorrow and check on ya.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-what-a-piece-of-plastic.269270/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fiskars-x27-what-a-piece-of-plastic.269270/
It's a 4½# ax with a synthetic handle for something under 50 bucks (shrug)
Is it worth 50 bucks?? Yep, it is... but it ain't magic.
If I lost mine today I wouldn't replace it... however, a buddy borrowed mine for an afternoon and liked it so much he went out and got his own that same week.
Different strokes I guess.
*
Is it worth 50 bucks?? Yep, it is... but it ain't magic.
If I lost mine today I wouldn't replace it... however, a buddy borrowed mine for an afternoon and liked it so much he went out and got his own that same week.
Different strokes I guess.
*
I own one , first thing I'll tell you is it's Over rated . It's good for light work because it doesn't wear you out but your still going to be beating and smacking on rounds just like any axe . Takes practice to get the swing down . Worth about 20$ -not 50$ . Don't be fooled Nothing replaces a gas splitter
I've got around 40 cords through my X27. It's no longer pretty as the metalurgy isn't the best. I need to sharpen mine every day as I normally split directly on the ground. The factory edge is long gone and the top point is rounding off. But it still works
Why does the Fiskars shine compared to most "traditional" tools? Here's my take: Between the combination of a well shaped head, weight forward design (all of the weight is in the head), and modest overall weight (to improve speed) these factors allow a person to effectively split more wood than traditional axes or mauls. With a traditional axe, you will take more swings. With a traditional maul you will tire much more quickly because the maul is significantly heavier.
Fiskars is not the tool for splitting tough or knotted wood. Then you need a sharp maul. But to hand split most species it's a very good tool.
With that being said, the Husqvarna S2800 does everything the X27 does but it does it better because it was based off the Fiskars design. It does cost more at $100 retail (or $70 from member spike60) vs $60 for the Fiskars. If you watch for sales you can get the Fiskars for around $50.
Why does the Fiskars shine compared to most "traditional" tools? Here's my take: Between the combination of a well shaped head, weight forward design (all of the weight is in the head), and modest overall weight (to improve speed) these factors allow a person to effectively split more wood than traditional axes or mauls. With a traditional axe, you will take more swings. With a traditional maul you will tire much more quickly because the maul is significantly heavier.
Fiskars is not the tool for splitting tough or knotted wood. Then you need a sharp maul. But to hand split most species it's a very good tool.
With that being said, the Husqvarna S2800 does everything the X27 does but it does it better because it was based off the Fiskars design. It does cost more at $100 retail (or $70 from member spike60) vs $60 for the Fiskars. If you watch for sales you can get the Fiskars for around $50.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Here's the only picture I could find of the Fiskars head from when I compared it to my (then new) S2800. Btw the Fiskars edge was straight across from the factory.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
triathlete123
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the great reply. I think I will buy one tomorrow. Your point about speed of the axe head is important. Many people believe that axe head mass is most important. But Force = ma, where acceleration is velocity squared. In other words, any increase in mass increases force arithmatically. Any increase in velocity increases force exponentially. I'll take speed over mass.
I have a Fiskars x27, and have been splitting about 18-20 cord per year for about 5 years with it now. I love it. I am very fortunate to have access to plenty of straight grained, dead Red Oak ranging from 18" to 42" DBH, with most of it in the 24-26" range. I fell the dead trees, buck them in place, and usually split them right there and move the split wood to my stacks for another year of seasoning. As was mentioned, nothing beats a hydro splitter on knotty stuff, and when I run into a rare piece of that I resort to wedges and a maul. But, 90+% of my splitting is with the x27. I do not split on the ground, so my edge lasts longer than some folks, I never drive wedges with the back side of it, and I am never in any kind of race when splitting. (Or, for that matter just about everything else I do neither).
Bottom line, to me the x27 is well worth the price, and if I lost it in the woods, I'd replace it immediately, no other splitting ax considered. I regularly visit my Dad and help him split with his hydraulic splitter. He is 85, and isn't in many races either. He cuts, splits, and burns almost exclusively Black Locust. With two of us; me hustling the rounds and chucking the splits, and Dad on the lever, we can not split as fast as I can alone with my Fiskars. Obviously, that wouldn't be true if it took more than a swing per split, it doesn't, or if I got into some Hickory, or crooked Mulberry, Birch or even Beech - I don't.
Bottom line, to me the x27 is well worth the price, and if I lost it in the woods, I'd replace it immediately, no other splitting ax considered. I regularly visit my Dad and help him split with his hydraulic splitter. He is 85, and isn't in many races either. He cuts, splits, and burns almost exclusively Black Locust. With two of us; me hustling the rounds and chucking the splits, and Dad on the lever, we can not split as fast as I can alone with my Fiskars. Obviously, that wouldn't be true if it took more than a swing per split, it doesn't, or if I got into some Hickory, or crooked Mulberry, Birch or even Beech - I don't.
06switchback
ArboristSite Operative
I have had the x27 for a couple years I don't do much splitting by hand most is done by hydro but some mostly ash I think it works very well it uses speed and accuracy where my 6 lb maul is brute force and I still use that on big rounds to break them in half and then will grab the x27 otherwise I have to take pieces off the sides
It's not magic and won't replace a maul or splitting wedges but it is a nice splitting tool to have but would not be my only one
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
It's not magic and won't replace a maul or splitting wedges but it is a nice splitting tool to have but would not be my only one
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
I believe it is "approved" for driving non metal items.
The all black version is in Walmart right now for $53. Good luck!
Fiskars are way to light to use for beating on a wedge. I use a maul or sledge for that. I do beat on the fiskars with the maul when a split doesn't finish all the way.
The instructions for the X27 specifically advise against that. Just don't be surprised if/when it breaks or complain that the quality of the tool is inferior. If the instructions say don't do that, but you do that and it breaks then that is abusig the tool and not the tools fault.
Streblerm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I love mine. Been using it for five years. Unlike most people I prefer the shorter handled x25 although I have and use the x27. I also have the lighter weight splitting axe (which is severely underrated IMO) and the x7 hatchet. If I lost or broke any of them I would immediately replace them.
I have said this before. If you don't think this tool is magic then you are swinging it wrong. It requires a finesse swing. One of my friends who became a fiskars convert likens it to swinging a baseball bat or golf club. The technique that works best for me is to bring it straight down and just as the head is about to hit you snap your wrist and bend your knees slightly. This is different from a heavy maul swing that is all upper arms, roundhouse, swing as hard as you can. I think I prefer the shorter handle because it is easier to keep good form.
With straight grained wood the maul technique works fine. With the knotty stuff the technique matters. I have not come across anything that I could not split with the fiskars that i could split by switching to a maul. Matter of fact, I have not used my heavy maul in about 4 years. If it doesn't split with the fiskars I either noodle, sledge and wedge, or kick it aside for the hydro splitter.
Will the fiskars split everything? No. Are ther better designed heads out there? Maybe. Is there better metallurgy? Sure. But not anywhere near this price point. I would feel bad about leaving a 200$ splitting axe rattle around on my truck floor or sitting out in the woodpile in the rain, or driving it into the dirt splitting on the ground. I just use the fiskars.
I have said this before. If you don't think this tool is magic then you are swinging it wrong. It requires a finesse swing. One of my friends who became a fiskars convert likens it to swinging a baseball bat or golf club. The technique that works best for me is to bring it straight down and just as the head is about to hit you snap your wrist and bend your knees slightly. This is different from a heavy maul swing that is all upper arms, roundhouse, swing as hard as you can. I think I prefer the shorter handle because it is easier to keep good form.
With straight grained wood the maul technique works fine. With the knotty stuff the technique matters. I have not come across anything that I could not split with the fiskars that i could split by switching to a maul. Matter of fact, I have not used my heavy maul in about 4 years. If it doesn't split with the fiskars I either noodle, sledge and wedge, or kick it aside for the hydro splitter.
Will the fiskars split everything? No. Are ther better designed heads out there? Maybe. Is there better metallurgy? Sure. But not anywhere near this price point. I would feel bad about leaving a 200$ splitting axe rattle around on my truck floor or sitting out in the woodpile in the rain, or driving it into the dirt splitting on the ground. I just use the fiskars.
Shagbark
ArboristSite Guru
Works as advertised. Easier on blown shoulders than an 8lb maul. A good tool for certain circumstances but not the best for all circumstances.
I've pounded on the X27 a few times as well when I ended up with very difficult and bone dry cherry, elm, and sugar maple at my buddy's place that just wouldn't give up. It worked but it started to mushroom out the poll very quickly. He now has a box store maul that we can use as a wedge on a stick.
As marshy said this is not recommended as the soft Fiskars metal can chip off and hit you. And it voids the warranty, not that I'm concerned about that.
As marshy said this is not recommended as the soft Fiskars metal can chip off and hit you. And it voids the warranty, not that I'm concerned about that.
A very important point that has not yet been mentioned in this thread.
Similar threads
